RESUMO
BACKGROUND: The growing need to use sunscreens is a concrete reality, and it is associated with the increase in the population's awareness of the ultraviolet (UV) radiation damage. Inorganic UV filters promote the formation of particles/pigments film over the skin surface, reflecting, dispersing, and absorbing the radiation. Investigations of this class of filters demonstrate the emergence of alternative ingredients and new technologies. AIMS AND METHODS: In this review, we presented potential candidates for alternative UV inorganic filters, such as hydroxyapatite, cerium dioxide, and hydrotalcite. RESULTS: Specialized literature identified hydroxyapatite and cerium dioxide as actives with good performances, with a broad spectrum of absorption against UV radiation. Both of them were considered safe against degradation and skin erythema formation. Inorganic compounds as an alternative to circumvent degradation problems of organic UV filters containing PABA were also analyzed, with hydrotalcite having a good performance in improving the performance of classic ingredients, bypassing photoinstability, and improving safety, in addition to preventing skin irritability. CONCLUSION: Further investigations of these ingredients and interactions with sunscreen formulations are necessary to overall explore their safety and efficacy, encouraging future researches for more inorganic UV filters.
Assuntos
Protetores Solares , Raios Ultravioleta , Composição de Medicamentos , Eritema , Humanos , Pele , Raios Ultravioleta/efeitos adversosRESUMO
OBJECTIVE: Brazil and France are two major beauty markets worldwide. Despite this, there is not much cross-information on sensory analysis of cosmetic products between both population of these countries. The objective of this study was to compare the sensory perception of cosmetic formulations between Brazilian and French assessors and establish cross-culturally preferences. METHODS: For this, a total panel of 100 consumers of cosmetics evaluated four different products. The same protocol for the sensory analysis was followed in both countries. RESULTS: The panellists were able to perceive differences in the products and the method proved to be repeatable in both countries. The presence of UV filters in the formulation was noticed and displeased both populations. Brazilians, although dissatisfied with the sensory aspect of the sunscreen, are willing to use it for its UV protection. CONCLUSION: This work delivers important information on the sensory perception of cosmetics by people from different countries and brings important knowledge to develop products with textural properties that will be appreciated worldwide.
OBJECTIFS: Le Brésil et la France sont deux pays majeurs pour le marché de la beauté. Malgré cela, il y a peu d'étude interculturelle sur la perception sensorielle des produits cosmétiques entre ces deux populations. L'objectif de cette étude était donc de comparer l'analyse de formules cosmétiques par deux jurys, l'un brésilien et l'autre français, et d'établir leur préférence. METHODES: Pour cela, nous avons demandé à 100 consommateurs au total d'évaluer 4 produits cosmétiques différents. Le même protocole d'analyse sensorielle a été scrupuleusement suivi dans les deux pays. RESULTATS: Les évaluateurs ont été capables de percevoir des différences significatives entre les produits, et de façon répétable dans chaque pays. Chaque jury a noté la présence de filtres UV dans les formules et ces dernières ont été peu appréciées. Cependant, le jury brésilien était favorable à leur utilisation pour se protéger des UV, et ce malgré leurs propriétés sensorielles insatisfaisantes. CONCLUSION: Ce travail fournit des informations indispensables sur la perception sensorielle des produits cosmétiques par des populations différentes, ainsi que de nouvelles connaissances pour développer des formules avec des textures qui pourront être appréciées à travers le monde.
Assuntos
Cosméticos , Comparação Transcultural , Percepção , Brasil , França , Humanos , Reologia , Protetores Solares/farmacologia , Raios UltravioletaRESUMO
OBJECTIVE: Organic silicon has been linked to positive effects on the skin rejuvenation, mainly by the oral route. Thus, the main objective of the present study was to assess whether monomethylsilanetriol (MMST, a source of organic silicon) can deliver silicon to the epidermis and dermis, when applied topically in a cream. Once the hypothesis was confirmed, the present study also evaluated whether the product was toxic to keratinocytes; additionally, its possible antioxidant activity was assessed. METHODS: The ex vivo skin permeation profile was determined using human skin in Franz-cells equipment; cytotoxicity was assessed using HaCaT keratinocytes. Antioxidant capacity was determined as scavenging activity, measured according to the 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazil free radical method. RESULTS: The permeation percentage was almost 60% of the applied MMST, with a large quantity of drug found in the viable epidermis and dermis. The cell viability assay showed no significant difference in the percentage of viable keratinocytes among the treated groups at the doses used. In terms of antioxidant activity, the IC50 value obtained was 2400 µg mL-1 . Low antioxidant activity, negligible toxicity for keratinocytes and a significant percentage of permeation were observed. CONCLUSION: We provide evidence that MMST applied topically can deliver silicon to the skin in biorelevant levels for cosmetic purposes.
OBJECTIF: Le silicium organique a été associé à des effets positifs sur le rajeunissement de la peau, principalement par voie orale. Ainsi, l'objectif principal de la présente étude était d'évaluer si le monométhylsilanetriol (MMST, une source de silicium organique) pouvait livrer du silicium à l'épiderme et au derme, lorsqu'il était appliqué localement dans une crème. Une fois l'hypothèse confirmée, la présente étude a également évalué si le produit était toxique pour les kératinocytes; de plus, son éventuelle activité antioxydante a été évaluée. MÉTHODES: Le profil de permeation cutanée ex vivo a été déterminé en utilisant de la peau humaine dans un équipement à cellules Franz; la cytotoxicité a été évaluée à l'aide de kératinocytes HaCaT. La capacité d'antioxydant a été déterminée en tant qu'activité de piégeage, mesurée selon la méthode des radicaux libres au 1,1-diphényl-2-picrylhydrazil. RÉSULTATS: Le pourcentage de perméation était proche de 60% du MMST appliqué, une grande quantité de médicament se trouvant dans l'épiderme et le derme viables. Le test de viabilité cellulaire n'a montré aucune différence significative dans le pourcentage de kératinocytes viables parmi les groupes traités aux doses utilisées. En termes d'activité antioxydante, la valeur de la CI50 obtenue était de 2400 µg mL−1 . Une faible activité antioxydante, une toxicité négligeable pour les kératinocytes et un pourcentage important de perméation ont été observés. CONCLUSION: Nous apportons la preuve que le MMST appliqué localement peut délivrer du silicium sur la peau à des niveaux biologiquement pertinents à des fins esthétiques.
Assuntos
Silanos/administração & dosagem , Silício/administração & dosagem , Pele/efeitos dos fármacos , Animais , Antioxidantes/farmacologia , Células Cultivadas , Cosméticos/farmacologia , Humanos , Queratinócitos/efeitos dos fármacos , Camundongos , Ratos , Ratos Sprague-Dawley , Pele/citologiaRESUMO
Cosmetic treatments aim at improving skin appearance through vehicles of good sensory properties. Those vehicles are mainly emulsions and gels designed to deliver safe and effective compounds to skin. Creams and serums are widely used to achieve these goals, but recently a new type of formulation known as organogels triggered scientific attention, particularly in the design of both topical and cosmetic formulations. It has been established that the lipophilic nature of organogels makes it an excellent candidate for the delivery of cosmetic molecules through skin. In this review, we discuss the properties and characteristics of organogels and present the advantages of the application of these systems in cosmetics.
Les traitements cosmétiques visent à améliorer l'apparence de la peau grâce à des véhicules dotés de bonnes propriétés sensorielles. Ces véhicules sont principalement des émulsions et gels conçus pour livrer des composants sûrs et efficaces à la peau. Crèmes et sérums sont largement utilisés pour atteindre ces objectifs mais un nouveau type de formulation appelé organogels a récemment attiré l'attention des scientifiques, en particulier en ce qui concerne la conception de formulations à la fois topiques et cosmétiques. Il a été établi que la nature lipophile des organogels en fait d'excellents candidats pour la livraison de molécules cosmétiques à la peau. Dans cette analyse, nous discutons des propriétés et des caractéristiques des organogels, et présentons les avantages de l'utilisation de ces systèmes dans la cosmétique.
Assuntos
Cosméticos , Géis , Compostos Orgânicos/química , Administração Tópica , Química Farmacêutica , Estabilidade de Medicamentos , Reologia , Absorção CutâneaRESUMO
INTRODUCTION: The use of bioadhesive hydrogels for skin care presents important advantages such as long residence times on the application site and reduced product administration frequency. OBJECT: The aim of the present work was to develop bioadhesive hydrogels for skin application, using caffeine as a model active ingredient. METHODS: Eight hydrogels were formulated using binary combinations of a primary polymer (carbomer homopolymer type C (Carbopol(®) 980) or kappa carrageenan potassium salt (Gelcarin(®) GP-812 NF)) and a secondary polymer (carbomer copolymer type B (Pemulen(™) TR-1), xanthan gum or guar gum). Hydrogels were characterized by means of physico-chemical (dynamic rheological measurements, spreadability and adhesion measurements) and sensory methods (projective mapping in combination with a check-all-that-apply (CATA) question). Caffeine hydrogels were formulated using two of the most promising formulations regarding adhesion properties and sensory characteristics. In vitro active ingredient release studies were carried out. RESULTS: Hydrogel formulations showed a prevalently elastic rheological behaviour. Complex viscosity of carbomer homopolymer type C hydrogels was higher than that of the kappa carrageenan hydrogels. Besides, complex viscosity values were dependent on the secondary polymer present in the formulation. Significant differences among hydrogels were found in detachment force, work of adhesion and spreading diameter results. Association of projective mapping with CATA allowed to determine similarities and dissimilarities among samples. Cluster analysis associated the samples in two groups. Two hydrogels were selected to study the release of caffeine. Both hydrogels presented similar release profiles which were well described by the Higuchi model. Caffeine release was exclusively controlled by a diffusive process. CONCLUSION: Physico-chemical and sensory techniques enabled the identification of bioadhesive hydrogel formulations with positive characteristics for cosmetic applications. Formulations which combined carbomer homopolymer type C with xanthan gum or with carbomer copolymer type B were the most promising for bioadhesive skin products. Caffeine release profiles of selected formulations were not statistically different. Both hydrogels gradually released the active ingredient, reaching approximately 80% within the first 5 h, and their profiles were well described by the Higuchi model. In this context, it could be concluded that the selected hydrogels are suitable bioadhesive hydrogel formulations for cosmetic application on the skin.