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The development of biosensing electronics for real-time sweat analysis has attracted increasing research interest due to their promising applications for non-invasive health monitoring. However, one of the critical challenges lies in the sebum interference that largely limits the sensing reliability in practical scenarios. Herein, we report a flexible epidermal secretion-purified biosensing patch with a hydrogel filtering membrane that can effectively eliminate the impact of sebum and sebum-soluble substances. The as-prepared sebum filtering membranes feature a dual-layer sebum-resistant structure based on the poly(hydroxyethyl methacrylate) hydrogel functionalized with nano-brush structured poly(sulfobetaine) to eliminate interferences and provide self-cleaning capability. Furthermore, the unidirectional flow microfluidic channels design based on the Tesla valve was incorporated into the biosensing patch to prevent external sebum contamination and allow effective sweat refreshing for reliable sensing. By seamlessly combining these components, the epidermal secretion-purified biosensing patch enables continuous monitoring of sweat uric acid, pH, and sodium ions with significantly improved accuracy of up to 12 %. The proposed strategy for enhanced sweat sensing reliability without sebum interference shows desirable compatibility for different types of biosensors and would inspire the advances of flexible and wearable devices for non-invasive healthcare.

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BACKGROUND: Quantitative biomarkers of facial skin aging were investigated in 109 healthy Asian female volunteers, aged 20 to 70 years. MATERIALS AND METHODS: In vivo 3D Line-field Confocal Optical Coherence Tomography (LC-OCT) imaging, enhanced by Artificial Intelligence (AI)-based quantification algorithms, was utilized to compute various metrics, including stratum corneum thickness (SC), viable epidermal (VE) thickness, and Dermal-Epidermal Junction (DEJ) undulation along with cellular metrics for the temple, cheekbone, and mandible. RESULTS: Comparison with data from a cohort of healthy Caucasian volunteers revealed similarities in the variations of stratum corneum and viable epidermis layers, as well as cellular shape and size with age in both ethnic groups. However, specific findings emerged, such as larger, more heterogeneous nuclei in both layers, demonstrated by an increase in nuclei volume and their standard deviation, and increased network atypia, all showing significant age-related variations. Caucasian females exhibited a flatter and more homogeneous epidermis, evidenced by a decreased standard deviation of the number of layers, and a less dense cellular network with fewer cells per layer, indicated by a decrease in cell surface density. CONCLUSION: Ethnicity-wise comparisons highlighted distinct biological features specific to each population. Asian individuals showed significantly higher DEJ undulation, higher compactness, and lower cell network atypia compared to their Caucasian counterparts across age groups. Differences in stratum corneum and viable epidermal thickness on the cheekbone were also significant. LC-OCT 3D imaging provides valuable insights into the aging process in different populations and underscores inherent biological differences between Caucasian and Asian female volunteers.

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Holometabolous insects undergo morphological remodeling from larvae to pupae and to adults with typical changes in the cuticle; however, the mechanism is unclear. Using the lepidopteran agricultural insect Helicoverpa armigera, cotton bollworm, as a model, we revealed that the transcription factor RUNT-like (encoded by Runt-like) regulates the development of the pupal cuticle via promoting a pupal cuticle protein gene (HaPcp) expression. The HaPcp was highly expressed in the epidermis and wing during metamorphosis and was found being involved in pupal cuticle development by RNA interference (RNAi) analysis in larvae. Runt-like was also strongly upregulated in the epidermis and wing during metamorphosis. Knockdown of Runt-like produced similar phenomena, a failure of abdomen yellow envelope and wing formation, to those following HaPcp knockdown. The insect molting hormone 20-hydroxyecdysonen (20E) upregulated HaPcp transcription via RUNT-like. 20E upregulated Runt-like transcription via nuclear receptor EcR and the transcription factor FOXO. Together, RUNT-like and HaPCP are involved in pupal cuticle development during metamorphosis under 20E regulation.

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Skin identity is controlled by intrinsic features of the epidermis and dermis and their interactions. Modifying skin identity has clinical potential, such as the conversion of residual limb and stump (nonvolar) skin of amputees to pressure-responsive palmoplantar (volar) skin to enhance prosthesis use and minimize skin breakdown. Greater keratin 9 (KRT9) expression, higher epidermal thickness, keratinocyte cytoplasmic size, collagen length, and elastin are markers of volar skin and likely contribute to volar skin resiliency. Given fibroblasts' capacity to modify keratinocyte differentiation, we hypothesized that volar fibroblasts influence these features. Bioprinted skin constructs confirmed the capacity of volar fibroblasts to induce volar keratinocyte features. A clinical trial of healthy volunteers demonstrated that injecting volar fibroblasts into nonvolar skin increased volar features that lasted up to 5 months, highlighting a potential cellular therapy.

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BACKGROUND: Epidermal remodeling and hypertrophy are hallmarks of skin fibrotic disorders, and keratinocyte to mesenchymal (EMT)-like transformations drive epidermis alteration in skin fibrosis such as keloids and hypertrophic scars (HTS). While phosphodiesterase 4 (PDE4) inhibitors have shown effectiveness in various fibrotic disorders, their role in skin fibrosis is not fully understood. This study aimed to explore the specific role of PDE4B in epidermal remodeling and hypertrophy seen in skin fibrosis. METHODS: In vitro experiments examined the effects of inhibiting PDE4A-D (with Roflumilast) or PDE4B (with siRNA) on TGFß1-induced EMT differentiation and dedifferentiation in human 3D epidermis. In vivo studies investigated the impact of PDE4 inhibition on HOCl-induced skin fibrosis and epidermal hypertrophy in mice, employing both preventive and therapeutic approaches. RESULTS: The study found increased levels of PDE4B (mRNA, protein) in keloids > HTS compared to healthy epidermis, as well as in TGFß-stimulated 3D epidermis. Keloids and HTS epidermis exhibited elevated levels of collagen Iα1, fibronectin, αSMA, N-cadherin, and NOX4 mRNA, along with decreased levels of E-cadherin and ZO-1, confirming an EMT process. Inhibition of both PDE4A-D and PDE4B prevented TGFß1-induced Smad3 and ERK1/2 phosphorylation and mesenchymal differentiation in vitro. PDE4A-D inhibition also promoted mesenchymal dedifferentiation and reduced TGFß1-induced ROS and keratinocyte senescence by rescuing PPM1A, a Smad3 phosphatase. In vivo, PDE4 inhibition mitigated HOCl-induced epidermal hypertrophy in mice in both preventive and therapeutic settings. CONCLUSIONS: Overall, the study supports the potential of PDE4 inhibitors, particularly PDE4B, in treating skin fibrosis, including keloids and HTS, shedding light on their functional role in this condition.

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The pemphigoid disease epidermolysis bullosa acquisita (EBA) is an autoimmune blistering skin disease characterized by autoantibodies against type VII collagen (COL7), immune cell infiltrates at the dermal-epidermal junction and subepidermal blistering. Proteases, particularly granzyme B (GzmB), have been established as therapeutic targets for the treatment of EBA and other pemphigoid diseases. We investigated the impact of the novel GzmB inhibitor SNT-6935 on anti-COL7 IgG-induced subepidermal blistering in a well-established EBA ex vivo model. Our findings demonstrate that pharmacological targeting of GzmB with its selective inhibitor SNT-6935 significantly reduced autoantibody-induced dermal-epidermal separation in human skin cryosections. Interestingly, treatment of skin cryosections with recombinant human GzmB alone did not cause dermal-epidermal separation, suggesting that additional mechanisms alongside GzmB are required for tissue damage in EBA. In conclusion, our study highlights the significant contribution of GzmB to the pathogenesis of EBA and supports the notion of GzmB as a therapeutic target in EBA and other pemphigoid diseases.

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Quem não gosta de um banho quentinho no inverno, não é mesmo? É tão reconfortante! Mas cuidado, o banho quente pode ser um vilão para saúde da nossa pele. O #AtivaIdade de hoje traz dicas para cuidar do maior órgão do corpo, principalmente em tempo seco e frio.

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AIMS: To develop a standardised, automated protocol for detecting protein gene product 9.5 (PGP9.5) positive intra-epidermal nerve fibres (IENFs) in skin biopsies, transitioning from the established manual technique to an automated platform. This automated method, although currently intended for research applications, may improve the accessibility of this diagnostic test for small fibre neuropathy in clinical settings. METHODS: Skin biopsies (n = 274) from 100 participants (fibromyalgia syndrome n = 62; idiopathic small fibre neuropathy: n = 16; healthy volunteers: n = 22) were processed using an automated immunohistochemistry platform. IENF quantification was performed by blinded examiners, with reliability assessed via a two-way mixed-effects model to evaluate inter- and intra-observer variability. RESULTS: The automated staining system reproduced intra-epidermal nerve fibre density (IENFD) counts consistent with free-floating sections (mean ± standard deviation: free-floating: 5.6 ± 3.4 fibres/mm; automated: 5.9 ± 3.2 fibres/mm). A median difference of 0.3 with a lower bound 95% Confidence Interval (CI) at -0.00005 established non-inferiority against a margin of -0.4 (p = .08). Specifically, the inter-class correlation coefficient (class denotes consistency in measured observations) was 99% (95% CI: 0.9-1), indicating excellent agreement between free-floating and automated methods. The inter- and intra-class coefficient between examiners were both 99% (95% CI: 0.9-0.1) for IENFD, demonstrating high reliability using sections stained using the automated method. INTERPRETATION: Automated immunohistochemistry provides high-throughput reliable and reproducible intra-epidermal nerve fibre quantification. This method, although currently proof-of-concept, for research use only, may be more widely deployed in histopathology laboratories to increase the adoption of IENFD assessment for the diagnosis of peripheral neuropathies.

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We previously reported that a pathogenic abnormality in the barrier and water-holding functions of the stratum corneum (SC) in the skin of patients with atopic dermatitis (AD) is mainly attributable to significantly decreased levels of total ceramides in the SC. That decrease is mediated by the abnormal expression of a novel ceramide-reducing enzyme, sphingomyelin/glucosylceramide deacylase (SGDase), which is the ß-subunit (ASAH1b) of acid ceramidase. In this study, we determined whether mice overexpressing ASAH1b in their epidermis develop AD-like skin symptoms. We generated transgenic (TG) mice overexpressing ASAH1b, regulated by the involucrin promoter, to localize its expression in the upper epidermis. After hair removal using a depilatory cream containing glycolic acid, the TG mice without any visible skin inflammation at 8 weeks of age had increased levels of ASAH1b and decreased levels of SC ceramide, with disrupted barrier functions measured by trans-epidermal water loss compared to the wild-type (WT) mice. Interestingly, enzymatic assays revealed that SGDase activity was not detectable in the skin of the TG mice compared to WT mice. Immunological staining revealed that there was an increased expression level of IL-33 in the epidermis and an accumulation of macrophages in the dermis of TG mice compared to WT mice, which are phenotypic characteristics of AD, that were exacerbated by tape-stripping of the skin. In the skin of the TG mice, the mRNA levels of IL-5, CCL11, IL-22, CXCL10, and IFNγ were significantly upregulated compared to the WT mice, and tape-stripping significantly increased the mRNA levels of IL-4, IL-33, CXCL1, CXCL12, TLR9, and CD163 compared to WT mice. These findings strongly indicate that the skin of the depilatory cream-treated TG mice exists in an atopic dry skin condition that is highly sensitive to various environmental stimuli. The sum of our results suggests that ASAH1b itself, even in the absence of its enzymatic activity, is a major etiologic factor for atopic dry skin symptoms via an unknown mechanism.

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Conventional histopathological features of psoriasis and atopic dermatitis often overlap. We aimed to investigate Galectin-3 (Gal-3) expression in psoriatic skin lesions and its potential as an immunohistochemical marker for distinguishing between psoriasis and atopic dermatitis on a pathological basis. Based on immunohistochemical analysis, we assessed Gal-3 expression in formalin-fixed, paraffin-embedded tissue sections from 21 patients with psoriasis and 15 patients with atopic dermatitis. Quantitative analysis of expression intensity was performed using the average density (average optical density) method. We analysed the relationship between Gal-3 expression and clinical characteristics, as well as conventional histopathological features. Patients with psoriasis exhibited significantly decreased Gal-3 expression in the epidermis (0.11±0.05) compared to the atopic dermatitis group (0.36±0.15) and healthy controls (0.49±0.13) (p<0.0001). Reduction in Gal-3 expression in the psoriatic epidermis around areas of neutrophil aggregation was more pronounced than around areas of non-neutrophil aggregation (0.07±0.02 vs 0.16±0.05, p<0.01). In both psoriasis (r=-0.48, p<0.05) and atopic dermatitis groups (r=-0.70, p<0.01), Gal-3 expression negatively correlated with epidermal thickness. When epidermal thickness was matched between the two groups, the decrease in epidermal Gal-3 expression remained significant in the psoriasis group compared to the atopic dermatitis group (0.14±0.05 Vs 0.30±0.07, p<0.01). Patients with psoriasis show specific downregulation of epidermal Gal-3, correlating with epidermal thickness and neutrophil-related factors. Gal-3 may serve as an auxiliary discriminative marker between psoriasis and atopic dermatitis, potentially associated with keratinocyte proliferation and neutrophil function.

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INTRODUCTION: Stratum corneum (SC) is essential for skin barrier function, mitigating water loss and shielding against potentially harmful substances and allergens. The SC's lipid matrix, arranged in a lamellar structure, is integral to its protective role. Our study explores the restoration effects of a multilamellar cream with an acidic pH compared to a basic placebo cream on skin physiology and its interaction with the skin microbiome after stress induction via tape stripping (TS). MATERIALS AND METHODS: In this double-blind study, 14 healthy participants aged 21-58 years were assessed pre- and post-tape stripping, followed by a 14 days application of a multilamellar test cream and a placebo cream with evaluations on days 7, 14 and 17 for sustained effects. Skin physiology was analysed in terms of epidermal barrier function, SC hydration and surface pH. The microbiome was analysed by 16S rRNA amplicon sequencing the 16S rRNA gene using Illumina MiSeq, with subsequent species identification. RESULTS: Our study showed significant improvements in skin barrier repair and SC hydration with verum, particularly after 14 days of application, while both creams initially enhanced stratum corneum hydration. No significant changes in surface-pH were detected. The skin microbiome analysis revealed that TS slightly decreased alpha diversity, a trend that verum significantly reversed, enhancing diversity beyond baseline levels after 14 days. Overall, while both creams contributed to a broader microbial phyla diversity over time, no significant changes in the abundance of specific genera or species were noted between treatments. DISCUSSION AND CONCLUSION: Our study delineates the efficacy of a pH-optimized multilamellar cream in enhancing epidermal barrier recovery and SC hydration post-sequential TS, in contrast to an unstructured basic placebo. Verum cream significantly improved skin barrier function and SC hydration at day 14, with sustained effects evident beyond the treatment period. Furthermore, the multilamellar formulation facilitated the restitution of cutaneous microbiome diversity, a key indicator of healthy skin ecology, underscoring the symbiotic relationship between barrier integrity and microbial composition. These findings underscore the importance of multilamellar emollient structures in dermatological therapeutics, with potential implications for the design of advanced skincare interventions that holistically support cutaneous resilience and homeostasis.

INTRODUCTION: La couche cornée (stratum corneum, SC) est essentielle pour la fonction de barrière cutanée, atténuant la perte d'eau et protégeant contre les substances et allergènes potentiellement nocifs. Disposée selon une structure lamellaire, la matrice lipidique de la SC est constitutive de son rôle protecteur. Notre étude explore les effets de restauration d'une crème multilamellaire à pH acide par rapport à une crème placebo de base sur la physiologie de la peau et son interaction avec le microbiome de la peau après induction de stress via un test tape stripping (TS). MATÉRIELS ET MÉTHODES: Dans cette étude en double aveugle, 14 participants en bonne santé âgés de 21 à 58 ans ont été évalués avant et après tape stipping, puis ont procédé à l'application pendant 14 jours d'une crème test multilamellaire et d'une crème placebo avec des évaluations aux jours 7, 14 et 17 pour les effets durables. La physiologie de la peau a été analysée en termes de fonction de la barrière épidermique, d'hydratation SC et de pH de surface. Le microbiome a été analysé par séquençage de l'amplicon de l'ARNr 16S sur le gène de l'ARNr 16S à l'aide d'Illumina MiSeq, avec identification ultérieure des espèces. RÉSULTATS: Notre étude a montré des améliorations significatives de la réparation de la barrière cutanée et de l'hydratation SC avec le traitement actif, en particulier après 14 jours d'application, tandis que les deux crèmes avaient initialement amélioré l'hydratation de la couche cornée. Aucun changement significatif du pH de surface n'a été détecté. L'analyse du microbiome cutané a révélé que le TS diminuait légèrement la diversité alpha, une tendance qui s'est significativement inversée avec le traitement actif : une amélioration de la diversité au­delà des taux initiaux était observée après 14 jours. Dans l'ensemble, bien que les deux crèmes aient contribué à une plus grande diversité des phyla microbiennes au fil du temps, aucune variation significative dans l'abondance de genres ou d'espèces spécifiques n'a été observée entre les traitements. DISCUSSION ET CONCLUSION: Notre étude délimite l'efficacité d'une crème multilamellaire à pH optimisé pour améliorer la réparation de la barrière épidermique et l'hydratation SC après un TS séquentiel, contrairement à un placebo basique non structuré. La crème contenant le traitement actif a significativement amélioré la fonction de barrière cutanée et l'hydratation SC au jour 14, avec des effets durables évidents au­delà de la période de traitement. En outre, la formulation multilamellaire a facilité la restitution de la diversité du microbiome cutané, un indicateur clé d'une écologie de peau en bonne santé, soulignant la relation symbiotique entre l'intégrité de la barrière et la composition microbienne. Ces résultats soulignent l'importance des structures émollientes multilamellaires dans les traitements dermatologiques, avec des implications potentielles pour la conception d'interventions cutanées avancées qui soutiennent de manière holistique la résilience cutanée et l'homéostasie.

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Ceramides are essential lipids for skin barrier function, and various classes and species exist in the human stratum corneum (SC). To date, the relationship between skin conditions and ceramide composition in healthy individuals has remained largely unclear. In the present study, we measured six skin condition parameters (capacitance, transepidermal water loss, scaliness, roughness, multilayer exfoliation, and corneocyte cell size) for the SC of the cheeks and upper arms of 26 healthy individuals and performed correlation analyses with their SC ceramide profiles, which we measured via liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry. In the cheeks, high levels and/or ratios of two free ceramide classes containing an extra hydroxyl group in the long-chain moiety and a protein-bound ceramide class containing 6-hydroxysphingosine correlated with healthy skin conditions. In contrast, the ratios of two other free ceramide classes, both containing sphingosine, and a protein-bound ceramide class containing 4,14-sphingadiene correlated with unhealthy skin conditions, as did shortening of the carbon chain of the fatty acid portion of two ceramide classes containing non-hydroxy fatty acids. Thus, our findings help to elucidate the relationship between skin conditions and ceramide composition.

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The stratum corneum (SC), the outermost epidermal layer, plays a pivotal role in skin barrier function. This review delves into the intricate process of protein degradation within the stratum corneum, elucidating the roles of specific enzymes, regulatory mechanisms and the consequent impact on various skin conditions. Protein degradation is a finely tuned process, orchestrated by a suite of proteolytic enzymes like kallikreins. These enzymes are responsible for the breakdown of corneodesmosomes and the orderly desquamation of corneocytes, a process essential for skin homeostasis. Another critical enzymatic process is the breakdown of proteins like filaggrin and the generation of amino acids and their derivatives, required in the physiological water-handling properties of the SC. Regulation of these proteolytic activities is complex, involving a balance between endogenous inhibitors and other factors like pH, hydration and environmental stressors. Dysregulation of protease activity is linked to a spectrum of skin conditions, ranging from xerosis to inflammatory diseases like atopic dermatitis and psoriasis. Aberrant protein degradation can lead to compromised skin barrier function, increased tissue water loss and heightened susceptibility to infections and allergens. Understanding the factors affecting protein degradation can inform the development of targeted skincare products. Advances in biochemistry and dermatology have paved the way for the search for active ingredients designed to modulate protease activity. Such innovations may offer promising therapeutic avenues for enhancing skin barrier function and treating skin disorders. This review underscores the significance of enzymatic protein degradation in the SC and its regulatory mechanisms. It provides insights into the pathophysiology of skin diseases and outlines the potential for novel skincare interventions. By bridging the gap between fundamental research and practical applications, this article aims to inspire further investigation for better understanding of skin physiology and innovation in the realm of skincare product development.

La couche cornée (stratum corneum, SC), la couche épidermique la plus externe, joue un rôle essentiel dans la fonction de barrière cutanée. Cette revue se penche sur le processus complexe de dégradation des protéines au sein de la couche cornée, ce qui explique les rôles des enzymes spécifiques, les mécanismes de régulation et l'impact qui en résulte sur diverses affections cutanées. La dégradation des protéines est un processus subtil, orchestré par une série d'enzymes protéolytiques telles que les kallikréines. Ces enzymes sont responsables de la décomposition des cornéodesmosomes et de la desquamation ordonnée des cornéocytes, un processus essentiel à l'homéostasie de la peau. Un autre processus enzymatique essentiel est la dégradation des protéines telles que la filaggrine et la génération d'acides aminés et de leurs dérivés, nécessaires aux propriétés physiologiques de traitement de l'eau de la SC. La régulation de ces activités protéolytiques est complexe, impliquant un équilibre entre les inhibiteurs endogènes et d'autres facteurs tels que le pH, l'hydratation et les facteurs de stress environnementaux. Le dérèglement de l'activité de la protéase est lié à un spectre d'affections cutanées, allant de la xérose à des maladies inflammatoires telles que la dermatite atopique et le psoriasis. Une dégradation aberrante des protéines peut compromettre la fonction de barrière cutanée, augmenter la perte d'eau tissulaire et augmenter la sensibilité aux infections et aux allergènes. Comprendre les facteurs affectant la dégradation des protéines peut contribuer au développement de produits de soins de la peau ciblés. Les progrès en biochimie et en dermatologie ont ouvert la voie à la recherche de principes actifs conçus pour moduler l'activité de la protéase. Ces innovations peuvent offrir des pistes thérapeutiques prometteuses pour améliorer la fonction de la barrière cutanée et traiter les troubles cutanés. Cette revue souligne l'importance de la dégradation enzymatique des protéines dans la SC et ses mécanismes de régulation. Elle fournit des informations sur la physiopathologie des maladies cutanées et souligne le potentiel de nouvelles interventions pour soins de la peau. En comblant le fossé entre la recherche fondamentale et les applications pratiques, cet article vise à inspirer des recherches supplémentaires pour mieux comprendre la physiologie de la peau et l'innovation dans le domaine du développement de produits de soins de la peau.

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Over the past 50 years there have been great strides made in the discovery of the composition and relevance of the total stratum corneum (SC) ceramide matrix. However, the focus of this review is on the free intercellular class of ω-linoleoyloxyacylceramides, corneocyte-bound ceramides and associated lipids known as the corneocyte lipid envelope (CLE) together with their processing enzymes involved in aiding ceramide attachment the corneocyte protein envelope (CPE). Two structural models and partially shared biosynthetic pathways have been proposed for the attachment of CPE-bound O-ceramides (ω-hydroxyceramides attached to glutamate residues of proteins in the (CPE) using the 12R-lipoxygenase (12R-LOX)/epidermal lipoxygenase-3 (eLOX3)/epoxide hydrolase-3 (EPHX3)/unknown esterase/ transglutaminase-1 (TG1) attachment pathway) and CPE-bound EO-ceramides (epoxy-enone ceramides attached to cysteine residues of proteins in the CPE using the 12R-LOX/eLOX3/short chain dehydrogenase/reductase family 9C member 7 (SDR9C7)/non-enzymatic attachment pathway), i.e. there is a bifurcation step beyond epidermal eLOX3. Their formation and structures will be discussed as well as their relevance in compromised skin barrier conditions together with our own work on SC maturation examined by proteomics, lipidomics, enzyme immunolocalization studies, mechanical fragility assays and Nile red staining of corneocyte envelopes (CE). Reduced levels of 12R-LOX, eLOX3, SDR9C7 and TG1 were observed in photodamaged skin of the cheeks that were associated with reduced SC maturation as evidenced by Nile red staining and increased CE fragility. In the severely photodamaged cheeks of Albino African SC we also observed increased levels of acylceramides. Concomitantly by reducing the activity of 12R-LOX by antibody inhibition and TG1 inhibition with a known chemical inhibitor, we demonstrated in a humidity-based ex vivo SC maturation model that these enzymes contributed to increased CE hydrophobicity and mechanical integrity. We hypothesize that at least the CPE-bound O-ceramide pathway is operational in the SC. Nevertheless, our understanding of the full complexity of ω-linoleoyloxyacylceramides and the composition of the CLE is limited particularly on cosmetically relevant body sites such as the face.

Ces 50 dernières années, de grandes avancées ont eu lieu dans la découverte de la composition de la matrice de céramides de toute la couche cornée et de son importance. Cependant, cette revue se concentre sur la classe intercellulaire libre des ω­linoléoyloxyacylcéramides, les céramides liés aux cornéocytes et les lipides associés appelés « enveloppe lipidique des cornéocytes ¼ (ELC), ainsi que sur leurs enzymes de transformation impliquées dans la fixation des céramides sur l'enveloppe protéique des cornéocytes (EPC). Deux modèles structurels et des voies de biosynthèse partiellement partagées ont été proposés pour la fixation des O­céramides liés à l'EPC (ω­hydroxycéramides fixés aux résidus glutamate des protéines dans l'[EPC] en utilisant la 12R­lipoxygénase [12R­LOX]/la lipoxygénase épidermique 3 [eLOX3]/l'époxyde hydrolase 3 [EPHX3]/une voie de fixation inconnue de l'estérase/de la transglutaminase 1 [TG1]) et les EO­céramides liés à l'EPC (céramides époxy­énone fixés aux résidus de cystéine des protéines de l'EPC utilisant la 12R­LOX/l'eLOX3/la déshydrogénase à chaîne courte/la réductase membre 7 de la famille 9C [SDR9C7]/une voie de fixation non enzymatique). En d'autres termes, il existe une étape de bifurcation au­delà de l'eLOX3 épidermique. Leur formation et leur structure, ainsi que leur importance dans des conditions de barrière cutanée compromises, font ici l'objet d'une discussion. Nous abordons également nos propres travaux sur la maturation de la couche cornée selon la protéomique, la lipidomique, les études d'immunolocalisation enzymatique, les tests de fragilité mécanique et la coloration au rouge du Nil des enveloppes cornées (EC). Des taux réduits de 12R­LOX, d'eLOX3, de SDR9C7 et de TG1, associés à une maturation réduite de la couche cornée, ont été observés sur la peau photo­lésée des joues, comme en témoigne la coloration au rouge du Nil et la fragilité accrue des EC. Nous avons également observé une augmentation des taux d'acylcéramides sur les joues de personnes africaines atteintes d'albinisme dont la couche cornée a été sévèrement photo­lésée. En réduisant l'activité de la 12R­LOX par inhibition des anticorps et du TG1 avec un inhibiteur chimique connu, nous avons pu démontrer, dans un modèle de maturation de la couche cornée ex vivo basé sur l'humidité, que ces enzymes contribuaient à accroître le caractère hydrophobe des EC, ainsi que leur intégrité mécanique. Nous émettons l'hypothèse qu'au moins la voie de l'O­céramide liée à l'EPC fonctionne dans la couche cornée. Néanmoins, notre compréhension de la complexité complète des ω­linoléoyloxyacylcéramides et de la composition de l'ELC reste limitée, en particulier à des parties du corps ou l'esthétique est importante, comme le visage.

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INTRODUCTION: The integrity of the stratum corneum (SC) is crucial for the skin's barrier function, protecting against environmental stressors and minimizing transepidermal water loss. Advances in skincare formulations have introduced multilamellar systems designed to emulate the SC's lipid composition and organization. This study hypothesizes that the application of a multilamellar cream will significantly impact the SC's lipid content and lamellar structure, thereby enhancing the epidermal barrier. METHODS: A saturated phosphatidylcholine-based multilamellar cream was applied to a cohort of adult subjects with very dry skin. Electron microscopy was utilized to analyse the micro-morphology of the cream and its integration into the lipid-depleted SC. Lipid analysis was conducted to quantify changes in the intercellular lipid matrix. RESULTS: Transmission-electron microscopy (TEM) imaging demonstrated that the multilamellar cream possesses a structured arrangement comparable to the natural SC architecture. Short-term application revealed a time-dependent restoration of lipid bilayers, while a 14-day regimen showed a marked increase in lipid lamellae density and length within the SC. Lipid analysis indicated a significant increase in total lipid content, with notable enhancements in ceramide and free fatty acid levels, without altering cholesterol levels. Lipid ratio analysis further confirmed the rebalancing of the SC's lipid composition. DISCUSSION: The multilamellar cream selectively increased specific lipids critical for barrier function, suggesting an action mechanism that aligns with the skin's natural regulatory processes. This selective augmentation indicates the potential of the formulation to not only restore but also enhance the epidermal barrier, with the maintenance of physiological lipid ratios suggesting compatibility with intrinsic repair mechanisms. CONCLUSION: The study confirms that a multilamellar cream can significantly improve the SC's lipid composition and structural integrity, indicating enhanced barrier function. They are pivotal for skincare professionals, dermatologists, and product developers, enriching the understanding of multilamellar creams' benefits and applications in improving epidermal barrier function.

INTRODUCTION: l'intégrité de la couche cornée (SC, stratum corneum) est essentielle pour la fonction de barrière cutanée, protégeant contre les facteurs de stress environnementaux et réduisant au minimum la perte d'eau transépidermique. Les progrès en matière de formulations pour soins de la peau ont introduit des systèmes multilamellaires conçus pour simuler la composition et l'organisation lipidique du SC. Cette étude émet l'hypothèse que l'application d'une crème multilamellaire aura un impact significatif sur la teneur en lipides et la structure lamellaire du SC, améliorant ainsi la barrière épidermique. MÉTHODES: Une crème multilamellaire à base de phosphatidylcholine saturée a été appliquée à une cohorte de sujets adultes présentant une peau très sèche. La microscopie électronique a été utilisée pour analyser la micromorphologie de la crème et son intégration dans le SC délipidé. Une analyse lipidique a été réalisée pour quantifier les changements dans la matrice lipidique intercellulaire. RÉSULTATS: l'imagerie par TEM a démontré que la crème multilamellaire possède un agencement structuré comparable à l'architecture naturelle du SC. L'application à court terme a révélé une restauration dépendante du temps des bicouches lipidiques, tandis qu'un schéma posologique de 14 jours a montré une augmentation marquée de la densité et de la longueur des lamelles lipidiques au sein du SC. L'analyse lipidique a indiqué une augmentation significative de la teneur lipidique totale, avec des améliorations notables des taux de céramide et d'acides gras libres, sans altérer les taux de cholestérol. L'analyse du rapport lipidique a confirmé le rééquilibrage de la composition lipidique du SC. DISCUSSION: la crème multilamellaire a augmenté de manière sélective les lipides spécifiques essentiels à la fonction de barrière, suggérant un mécanisme d'action qui s'aligne sur les processus de régulation naturels de la peau. Cette augmentation sélective indique le potentiel de la formulation non seulement à restaurer, mais également à améliorer la barrière épidermique, avec le maintien des rapports lipidiques physiologiques suggérant une compatibilité avec les mécanismes de réparation intrinsèques. CONCLUSION: l'étude confirme qu'une crème multilamellaire peut améliorer de manière significative la composition lipidique et l'intégrité structurelle du SC, ce qui indique une meilleure fonction de barrière. Ils sont essentiels pour les professionnels de la peau, les dermatologues et les développeurs de produits, et enrichissent la compréhension des bénéfices et des applications des crèmes multilamellaires dans l'amélioration de la fonction de la barrière épidermique.

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The interaction of active substances with molecular structures in stratum corneum (SC) is crucial for the efficacy and safety of cosmetic formulations and topical drugs. However, the molecular architecture of SC is highly complex and methods to unambiguously localize exogenous molecules within SC are lacking. Consequently, little is known about the distribution of actives within SC, and proposed penetration mechanisms through SC are typically limited to simple diffusion via a tortuous (lipid only) or transverse (across corneocytes and lipid matrix) pathway. In this work, 3D mass spectrometry imaging is used to determine the spatial distributions of four active substances at subcellular resolution in SC, including partitioning between the corneocytes and the intercellular lipid matrix. The results indicate that caffeine, 2-methyl resorcinol and oxybenzone are homogeneously distributed in the corneocytes but largely absent in the lipid matrix, despite considerable differences in lipophilicity. In contrast, the distribution- of jasmonic acid derivative is more inhomogeneous and indicates considerable localization to both the lipid phase and the corneocytes.

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With the growing importance of alternative test methods that implement the 3Rs principles (Reduction, Refinement and Replacement) and the global importance of biological safety assessment data for medical devices is increasing. We have developed and optimized the 'KeraSkin™ Skin Irritation Test (KeraSkin™ SIT) for medical device' for regulatory application in biological evaluation according to ISO 10993-23. We conducted a round robin study to optimize and evaluate the performance of KeraSkin™ SIT for medical devices using KeraSkin™ Reconstructed Human Epidermis (RhE), which is developed and manufactured in Korea. This round robin study was performed to assess the transferability, reproducibility (within and between laboratories) and predictive capacity in 1 lead laboratory and 3 participating laboratories based on OECD Guidance Document 34. The predictive capacity, the results showed 83.3 % of sensitivity, 100 % of specificity and 91.6 % of accuracy. In conclusion, the results demonstrate that 'KeraSkin™ SIT for medical device' provides a robust test method for detecting irritant activity of medical device extracts and can be utilized for identifying low levels of potent irritants in medical device extracts. Therefore, it fulfills the requirements to be included as a 'me-too' test method to EpiDerm™ and SkinEthic™ skin irritation test in ISO 10993-23.

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OBJECTIVE: Atopic dermatitis (AD) is characterized by compositional and structural changes to the skin at lesional sites. Alteration to the levels and organization of both protein and lipid components are associated with disease status and lead to impaired barrier and hydration. Corneodesmosin (CDSN) and the arrangement and length of the intercellular lipid lamellae (ICLL) are altered in disrupted skin states. The aim of this research was to profile the distribution of CDSN and the ICLL in the stratum corneum (SC) at lesional and non-lesional sites in AD-prone skin and to investigate the impact of an eczema calming lotion containing petroleum jelly, fatty acids, and colloidal oatmeal. METHODS: An IRB-approved study was conducted with participants with active AD. From a small subset of participants, tape strips were collected from lesional and non-lesional sites on the arm, prior to and after twice daily application, over 4 weeks of an eczema calming lotion containing petroleum jelly, fatty acids, and colloidal oatmeal. Fluorescent antibody staining was used to investigate the distribution of CDSN. Transmission electron microscopy (TEM) was used to characterize the ICLL. RESULTS: The distribution/coverage of CDSN was similar between lesional and non-lesional sites at baseline; application of the lotion resulted in a more defined honeycomb/peripheral distribution. Normalized ICLL (nICLL) was lower in baseline samples from lesional sites relative to non-lesional sites. Application of the lotion increased this parameter by the end of the study at all sites. CONCLUSION: The eczema calming lotion containing petroleum jelly, fatty acids and colloidal oatmeal provided changes in corneodesmosomal proteins distribution and ICLL, consistent with improvements in corneocyte maturation and improved barrier function in the skin of individuals with atopic dermatitis.

OBJECTIF: La dermatite atopique (DA) est caractérisée par des modifications de la composition et de la structure de la peau au niveau des sites lésionnels. L'altération des taux et de l'organisation des composants protéiques et lipidiques est associée au statut de la maladie, et entraîne une altération de la barrière et de l'hydratation. La cornéodesmosine (CDSN), et la disposition et la longueur des lamelles lipidiques intercellulaires (LLIC) sont altérées dans les états cutanés perturbés. L'objectif de cette étude était d'établir le profil de la distribution de la CDSN et des LLIC dans la couche cornée (CC) au niveau des sites lésionnels et non lésionnels dans la peau sujette à la DA, et d'étudier l'impact d'une lotion apaisante contre l'eczéma contenant de la vaseline, des acides gras et de l'avoine colloïdale. MÉTHODES: Une étude approuvée par un CPP a été menée auprès de participants atteints de DA active. Dans un petit sous­ensemble de participants, des bandes adhésives ont été prélevées sur des sites lésionnels et non lésionnels du bras, avant et après l'application deux fois par jour pendant 4 semaines d'une lotion apaisante contre l'eczéma contenant de la vaseline, des acides gras et de l'avoine colloïdale. Une coloration par anticorps fluorescents a été utilisée pour étudier la distribution de la CDSN. La microscopie électronique en transmission (MET) a été utilisée pour caractériser les LLIC. RÉSULTATS: La distribution/couverture de la CDSN était similaire entre les sites lésionnels et non lésionnels à l'entrée dans l'étude; l'application de la lotion a entraîné une distribution en nid d'abeille/périphérique plus définie. Le taux normalisé de LLIC (LLICn) était plus faible dans les échantillons prélevés à l'entrée dans l'étude au niveau des sites lésionnels par rapport aux sites non lésionnels. L'application de la lotion a augmenté ce paramètre à la fin de l'étude pour tous les sites. CONCLUSIONS: La lotion apaisante contre l'eczéma contenant de la vaseline, des acides gras et de l'avoine colloïdale a entraîné des changements dans la distribution des protéines cornéodesmosomales et des LLIC, ce qui correspond à des améliorations de la maturation des cornéocytes et de la fonction de barrière de la peau des personnes atteintes de dermatite atopique.

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