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BACKGROUND: Photoaging is a process of the architecture of normal skin damaged by ultraviolet radiation. Topical cosmeceuticals have been used to treat this condition. The authors aimed to understand the mechanism and level of evidence of different commonly used cosmeceuticals used to treat photodamaged skin. OBJECTIVE: A range of commonly used topical cosmeceuticals (botanicals, peptides, and hydroquinone) has been used in cosmetic medicine for many years to treat photodamaged skin. This review article compares their efficacy and level of evidence. MATERIAL AND METHODS: This study was a systematic review to evaluate the efficacy of different topical cosmeceuticals. Keywords including "Photoaging," "Azelaic acid," "Soy," "Green Tea," "Chamomile," "Ginkgo," "Tea Tree Oil," "Resveratrol," "Cucumber," "Ginseng," "Centella asiatica," "Licorice Root," "Aloe Vera," "Peptides," "Argireline," "Hydroquinone," were typed on OVID, PUBMED, MEDLINE for relevant studies published on photoaging treatment. RESULTS: Most of the evidence behind cosmeceuticals is of high-quality ranging from Level I to Level II. In particular, the evidence base behind peptides is the strongest with most studies achieving Level Ib status in the evidence hierarchy. CONCLUSION: Topical cosmeceuticals like botanicals, peptides and hydroquinone can effectively treat photodamaged skin.

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Rice is one of the plants proven to possess antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-proliferative, and whitening properties, making it one of the most beneficial plants in this regard. This study aimed to introduce a novel natural cosmetic and pharmaceutical product based on rice callus as a source of active ingredients that can inhibit skin melanoma cell (B16F10) proliferation and brighten the skin. The 2,4-D hormone at concentrations of 1 µg/mL and 1.5 µg/mL was used to induce rice callus formation. Rice callus extracts were then prepared using aqueous and ethanolic solvents, with a concentration of 1 mg/mL used for characterization tests. To determine the optimal hormone concentration, the phenols/flavonoids, antioxidant activity, proteins, and carbohydrates in the extracts were measured. The optimal concentration of the hormone was found to be 1 µg/mL. Finally, the anti-melanocyte and skin-whitening activity of the extracts was assessed through measurements of their cytotoxicity and inhibition of melanin synthesis-related enzymes. Cellular cytotoxicity measurements revealed that the ethanolic extract induced more cytotoxicity than the aqueous extract, with IC50 values of 566.3 µg/mL for the ethanolic extract and 1327 µg/mL for the aqueous extract. Skin-whitening-related tests demonstrated that the extracts were 1.7 times more effective than arbutin in inhibiting factors that cause hyperpigmentation. The aqueous extract achieved 85% inhibition of melanin biosynthesis at a concentration of 3200 µg/mL, compared to 68% for the ethanolic extract and 50% for arbutin. Based on these findings, rice callus extract can be introduced as a new, effective substance for skin-lightening and anti-melanocyte products in cosmeceutical and pharmaceutical formulations.

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Recently, microalgal biotechnology has attained great acceptance among various researchers and industries for the green and sustainable production of different bioactive compounds. They provide multiple metabolites and molecules, making them an ideal candidate for cosmetic formulators and cosmeceutical companies. Nevertheless, numerous microalgae strains have never been studied for their pharmaceutical, nutritional and cosmeceutical purposes. Even less, only some have been cultivated on a large scale for bioactive compound production. Here, we have studied the cosmetic and cosmeceutical potentials of different microalgal strains for sunscreen as adjuvants and boosters in a green, carbon-neutral and sustainable platform. Other bioactive compounds were exploited, and the available products in the market and the published patents were also reviewed. From our review, it will be possible to combine the fundamental and practical aspects of microalgal biotechnology toward a greener and more sustainable future for the cosmetic/cosmeceutical areas of the photoprotection scenario.

Récemment, la biotechnologie des microalgues a été très bien accueillie par divers chercheurs et industries pour la production écologique et durable de différents composés bioactifs. Elles fournissent de multiples métabolites et molécules, ce qui en fait un candidat idéal pour les formulateurs de produits cosmétiques et les entreprises de cosmétique. Néanmoins, de nombreuses souches de microalgues n'ont jamais été étudiées à des fins pharmaceutiques, nutritionnelles et cosmétiques. De plus, seules quelques­unes ont été cultivées à grande échelle pour la production de composés bioactifs. Ici, nous avons étudié les potentiels cosmétiques et cosméceutiques de différentes souches de microalgues pour les écrans solaires en tant qu'adjuvants et boosters dans une plateforme verte, neutre en carbone et durable. D'autres composés bioactifs ont été exploités, et les produits disponibles sur le marché ainsi que les brevets publiés ont également été examinés. À partir de notre étude, il sera possible de combiner les aspects fondamentaux et pratiques de la biotechnologie microalgale en vue d'un avenir plus vert et plus durable pour les domaines cosmétiques/cosméceutiques en photoprotection.

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The skin serves as a critical barrier against external threats-dehydration, ultraviolet exposure, and infections-playing a significant role in internal homeostasis and moisture retention. Additionally, and equally importantly, it interacts dynamically with the complex microbiome resident in it, which is essential for maintaining skin health. Recent interest has focused on the use of probiotics and postbiotics, besides their ability to modulate the skin microbiome, to enhance barrier function, and exhibit anti-inflammatory properties, to be involved in skincare, by having the potential to improve skin hydration, elasticity, and overall appearance, as well as in reducing signs of aging, such as wrinkles and fine lines. The products-being a combination of a cosmetic regime plus probiotic[s] or postbiotic[s]-are named cosmeceuticals. However, to comply with the regulations for the characterization of a microorganism as a specific probiotic strain, the pro- or postbiotics incorporated into the cosmetic regime should be both genetically and phenotypically defined. Thus, in this review, we present 14 published clinical trials using such cosmetic products with specific, well-characterized strains of probiotics or postbiotics applied to volunteers with healthy skin. Looking at the results of these studies collectively, we can say that these genetically and phenotypically defined strains of either live or inanimate bacteria and/or their components seem to keep the treated skin at least fully hydrated, with intact epithelial tone, increased radiance, and with decreased wrinkle depth, while normalizing the commensal skin microbiota. Future advancements in personalized skin care may lead to genomic sequencing and metabolomics to tailor probiotic and postbiotic treatments to individual skin microbiomes, promising a new frontier in cosmeceuticals.

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The inevitable attrition of skin due to ultraviolet radiation, termed photoaging, can be partially restored by treatment with retinoid compounds. Photoaged skin in lightly pigmented individuals, clinically presents with the appearance of wrinkles, increased laxity, and hyper- and hypopigmentation. Underlying these visible signs of ageing are histological features such as epidermal thinning, dermal-epidermal junction flattening, solar elastosis and loss of the dermal fibrillin microfibrillar network, fibrillar collagen and glycosaminoglycans. Retinoid compounds are comprised of three main generations with the first generation (all-trans retinoic acid, retinol, retinaldehyde and retinyl esters) primarily used for the clinical and cosmetic treatment of photoaging, with varying degrees of efficacy, tolerance and stability. All-trans retinoic acid is considered the 'gold standard' for skin rejuvenation; however, it is a prescription-only product largely confined to clinical use. Therefore, retinoid derivatives are readily incorporated into cosmeceutical formulations. The literature reported in this review suggests that retinol, retinyl esters and retinaldehyde that are used in many cosmeceutical products, are efficacious, safe and well-tolerated. Once in the skin, retinoids utilize a complex signalling pathway that promotes remodelling of photoaged epidermis and dermis and leads to the improvement of the cutaneous signs of photoaging.

L'altération inévitable de la peau due aux rayons ultraviolets, appelée photovieillissement, peut être partiellement restaurée par un traitement à base de composés rétinoïdes. Chez les personnes à la pigmentation claire, le photovieillissement de la peau se manifeste au plan clinique par l'apparition de rides, un relâchement accru et une hyperpigmentation ou hypopigmentation. Ces signes visibles du vieillissement sont sous­tendus par des caractéristiques histologiques telles que l'amincissement de l'épiderme, l'aplatissement de la jonction dermo­épidermique, l'élastose solaire et la perte du réseau microfibrillaire de fibrilline dermique, du collagène fibrillaire et des glycosaminoglycanes. Les composés rétinoïdes sont constitués de trois générations principales, la première génération (acide tout­trans rétinoïque, rétinol, rétinaldéhyde et esters de rétinyle) étant principalement utilisée pour le traitement clinique et cosmétique du photovieillissement, avec des degrés variables d'efficacité, de tolérance et de stabilité. L'acide tout­trans rétinoïque est considéré comme la référence en matière de rajeunissement de la peau; il s'agit toutefois d'un produit délivré uniquement sur ordonnance, dont l'utilisation est largement limitée au domaine clinique. Les dérivés rétinoïdes sont donc volontiers incorporés ds formulations cosméceutiques. La littérature citée dans cette synthèse bibliographique laisse penser que le rétinol, les esters de rétinyle et le rétinaldéhyde, utilisés dans de nombreux produits cosmétiques, sont efficaces, sûrs et bien tolérés. Une fois dans la peau, les rétinoïdes utilisent une voie de signalisation complexe qui favorise le remodelage de l'épiderme et du derme photovieillis, et conduit à l'amélioration des signes cutanés du photovieillissement.

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Bacterial cellulose (BC) emerges as a versatile biomaterial with a myriad of industrial applications, particularly within the cosmetics sector. The absence of hemicellulose, lignin, and pectin in its pure cellulose structure enables favorable interactions with both hydrophilic and hydrophobic biopolymers. This enhances compatibility with active ingredients commonly employed in cosmetics, such as antioxidants, vitamins, and botanical extracts. Recent progress in BC-based materials, which encompasses membranes, films, gels, nanocrystals, and nanofibers, highlights its significant potential in cosmetics. In this context, BC not only serves as a carrier for active ingredients but also plays a crucial role as a structural agent in formulations. The sustainability of BC production and processing is a central focus, highlighting the need for innovative approaches to strengthen scalability and cost-effectiveness. Future research endeavors, including the exploration of novel cultivation strategies and functionalization techniques, aim to maximize BC's therapeutic potential while broadening its scope in personalized skincare regimes. Therefore, this review emphasizes the crucial contribution of BC to the cosmetics sector, underlining its role in fostering innovation, sustainability, and ethical skincare practices. By integrating recent research findings and industry trends, this review proposes a fresh approach to advancing both skincare science and environmental responsibility in the cosmetics industry.

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This study aimed to extract bioactive proteins and protein hydrolysates from Apis mellifera larvae and assess their potential application in cosmetics as well as their irritation properties. The larvae were defatted and extracted using various mediums, including DI water, along with 0.5 M aqueous solutions of sodium hydroxide, ascorbic acid, citric acid, and hydrochloric acid. Subsequently, the crude proteins were hydrolyzed using the Alcalase® enzyme. All extracts underwent testing for antioxidant activities via the 2,2'-azino-bis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) and Griess assays. Anti-aging properties were evaluated in terms of anti-collagenase and anti-hyaluronidase effects. Irritation potential was assessed using the hen's egg chorioallantoic membrane (HET-CAM) test. The results revealed that the sodium hydroxide extraction showed promising outcomes in terms of yield, protein content, and effectiveness in inhibiting hyaluronidase, with the highest inhibition at 78.1 ± 1.5%, comparable to that of oleanolic acid. Conversely, crude protein extracted with ascorbic acid and its hydrolysate showed notable antioxidant and collagenase-inhibitory activities. Remarkably, their anti-collagenase effects were comparable to those of ascorbic acid and lysine. Additionally, it demonstrated safety upon testing with the CAM. In conclusion, the findings provided valuable insights into the utilization of A. mellifera larval proteins as active ingredients with a wide range of cosmeceutical applications, particularly due to their antioxidant, anti-aging, and low irritation properties, which hold significant promise for anti-skin wrinkles.

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Known for its natural bio-compounds and therapeutic properties, hemp is being utilized in the development of skin products. These products offer a wide range of applications and benefits in the fields of natural bio-compounds, pharmaceutical technology, topical delivery systems, and cosmeceuticals. This manuscript deals with hemp actives, such as cannabinoids, terpenes, and flavonoids, and their diverse biological properties relative to topical application, including anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and antioxidant effects. Also, the paper reviews strategies to overcome poor penetration of hemp actives, as well as the integration of hemp actives in cosmeceuticals that provide natural and sustainable alternatives to traditional skincare products offering a range of benefits, including anti-aging, moisturizing, and soothing properties. The review aims to provide a comprehensive understanding of the development and manufacturing processes of skin products containing hemp actives. By delving into the science behind hemp-based products, the paper provides valuable insights into the potential of hemp as a versatile ingredient in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. The utilization of hemp in these innovative products not only offers therapeutic benefits but also promotes natural and sustainable approaches to skincare.

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Mannosylerythritol lipids (MELs) are a class of amphipathic molecules bearing a hydrophilic 4-O-ß-D-mannopyranosyl-D-erythritol skeleton. Here, we designed and synthesized four kinds of MEL analogues R-MEL-A ([2R,3S]-erythritol type), S-mannosylthreitol lipid (MTL)-A ([2S,3S]-threitol type), R-MTL-A ([2R,3R]-threitol type), and α-S-MEL-A ([2S,3R]-erythritol type) using our previously reported boron-mediated aglycon delivery (BMAD) method and a neighboring group assisted glycosylation method. The selective cytotoxicity of the target compounds against cancer cells was evaluated, with R-MTL-A showing the highest selective cytotoxicity against human skin squamous carcinoma HSC-5 cells. Our findings suggest that R-MTL-A induces necrosis-like cell death against HSC-5 cells by decreasing cell membrane fluidity. R-MTL-A also exhibits an efficient recovery effect on damaged skin cells, indicating that R-MTL-A has potential as a lead compound for new cosmeceuticals with both cancer cell-selective toxicity and recovery effects on damaged skin cells.

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BACKGROUND: Chemical exfoliation of the skin is a frequently utilized treatment in dermatology to improve the appearance and health of photoaged skin. Photodamaged skin is especially prone to dryness and irritation. Over-exfoliation with at-home products are partially to blame for the "epidemic" of sensitive skin affecting over half the population. Combining AHA, BHA, and PHA together creates a complementary blend that has the potential to target numerous age-related changes in the skin including the appearance of pores and smoothing skin texture, while firming skin and increasing its collagen and moisture content. OBJECTIVES: The following study tested the clinical efficacy of a triple acid blend designed specifically for sensitive skin and measured improvements in signs of photodamage and hydration levels in the skin over time. METHODS: Thirty females aged 35-60 with mild to moderate facial lines, wrinkles, sun damage, uneven skin tone/texture, dark spots, or pores were enrolled. Subjects were instructed to use the test article, DWB-EN, on a clean face at night 3 times weekly with 48 h between applications for 4 weeks. RESULTS: Statistically significant improvements were noted in all parameters of photoaging clinical assessments (wrinkles, pores, overall appearance, luminosity, visible texture, skin tone evenness, hyperpigmentation) at the end of the 4-week study period. There were no instances of skin irritation throughout the duration of this study despite half of the women having sensitive skin. CONCLUSIONS: Overall, this study demonstrated the clinical efficacy and tolerability of DWB-EN for treating photoaging in subjects with all skin types.

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Encapsulation and drying technologies allow the engineering of innovative raw materials from plant biodiversity, with potential applications in pharmaceutical and cosmetic fields. Lipid-based nanoencapsulation stands out for its efficiency, ease of production, and versatility in encapsulating substances, whether hydrophilic or lipophilic. This work aimed at encapsulating pequi oil in liposomes and freeze-dried liposomes to enhance its stability and functional benefits, such as skin hydration and anti-aging effects, for use in innovative cosmetic formulations. Pequi oil-extracted from the Caryocar brasiliense fruit pulp, a plant species from Brazilian plant biodiversity-is rich in secondary metabolites and fatty acids. Liposomes and dried liposomes offer controlled production processes and seamless integration into cosmetic formulations. The physicochemical analysis of the developed liposomes confirmed that the formulations are homogeneous and electrokinetically stable, as evidenced by consistent particle size distribution and zeta potential values, respectively. The gel-type formulations loaded with the dried liposomes exhibit enhanced skin hydration, improved barrier function, and refined microrelief, indicating improvements in skin conditions. These results highlight the potential of dried liposomes containing pequi oil for the development of innovative cosmeceutical products. This research contributes to the valorization of Brazilian biodiversity by presenting an innovative approach to leveraging the dermatological benefits of pequi oil in cosmetic applications.

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Cosmeceuticals, the bridge between pharmaceuticals and cosmetics, contain biologically active ingredients that may improve the skin's overall appearance. As the market, accessibility, and popularity of cosmeceuticals increase, it is essential to understand the safety and efficacy of such products. This systematic review aims to examine published clinical studies involving the use of cosmeceuticals for antiaging to provide evidence-based recommendations based on available efficacy and safety data. PubMed, Embase, and Cochrane were systematically searched on January 1, 2023 using PRISMA guidelines. Strength of evidence was graded using the Oxford Centre for Evidence-Based Medicine guidelines. Clinical recommendations were made based on the quality of the existing literature. A total of 153 articles regarding the use of cosmeceuticals for treatment of antiaging were identified. After screening of titles, abstracts, and full text, 32 studies involving 1236 patients met inclusion criteria, including 20 randomized controlled trials (RCTs) and 12 non-randomized open-label clinical trials for Vitamin C, Retinol, Bakuchiol, Tetrahydrojasmonic acid, Growth Factors, Methyl Estradiolpropanoate, Timosaponin A-III (TA-III), Protocatechuic acid, Grammatophyllum speciosum, and Jasmine rice panicle extract. Retinol and vitamin C for antiaging received a Grade A for recommendation. Methyl estradiolpropanoate, bakuchiol, tetrahydrojasmonic acid, and growth factors received a recommendation grade of C. The remaining ingredients were assigned an inconclusive grade of recommendation due to lack of evidence. Cosmeceuticals included in the review had favorable safety profiles with few significant adverse events. The review analyzes numerous different ingredients to provide an evidence-based approach to decision-making for consumers and physicians on the use of cosmeceuticals for antiaging. Limitations to our review include a limited number of randomized controlled trials and a need for long-term data on each cosmeceutical's efficacy and safety. Future research is needed to establish the long-term effectiveness and safety of cosmeceuticals.

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In the face of rapid technological advancement, the pharmacy sector is undergoing a significant digital transformation. This review explores the transformative impact of digitalization in the global pharmacy sector. We illustrated how advancements in technologies like artificial intelligence, blockchain, and online platforms are reshaping pharmacy services and education. The paper provides a comprehensive overview of the growth of online pharmacy platforms and the pivotal role of telepharmacy and telehealth during the COVID-19 pandemic. Additionally, it discusses the burgeoning cosmeceutical market within online pharmacies, the regulatory challenges faced globally, and the private sector's influence on healthcare technology. Conclusively, the paper highlights future trends and technological innovations, underscoring the dynamic evolution of the pharmacy landscape in response to digital transformation.

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Introduction: Hyaluronic acid (HA) has become a commonly used ingredient in many topical products due to its strong humectant properties and essential role in skin hydration; however, limitations of delivery of HA to only the surface of skin has hindered leveraging the full capacity of HA biology necessary for skin rejuvenation. Here, we describe the clinical efficacy data of a set of novel next-generation, multi-weight HA plus antioxidant complex-based topical formulations with targeted skin delivery to enhance skin rejuvenation. Methods: Four multi-weight HA plus antioxidant complex-based formulations: 1) Multi-Weight HA plus Antioxidant Complex Lotion with SPF 30 (Day Lotion); 2) Multi-Weight HA plus Antioxidant Complex Cream (Night Cream); 3) Multi-Weight HA plus Antioxidant Complex Gel Cream; and 4) Multi-Weight HA plus Antioxidant Complex Boost Serum were clinically evaluated for key attributes including moisturization via corneometer, with clinical grading of: dryness, roughness, fine lines and wrinkles, and following daily use of the individual products for up to eight weeks. Results: Daily use of the multi-weight HA plus antioxidant complex-based formulations demonstrated significant improvements in all parameters evaluated compared to baselines, with changes in moisturization observed within 30 minutes of application, and changes in clinical grading parameters of dryness, roughness, fine lines and wrinkles observed as early as two weeks. Conclusion: These data demonstrate the clinical benefits of daily use of multi-weight HA plus antioxidant complex-based moisturizers for overall improvement in skin health and appearance.

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Cherry stems, prized in traditional medicine for their potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, derive their efficacy from abundant polyphenols and anthocyanins. This makes them an ideal option for addressing skin aging and diseases. This study aimed to assess the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of cherry stem extract for potential skincare use. To this end, the extract was first comprehensively characterized by HPLC-ESI-qTOF-MS. The extract's total phenolic content (TPC), antioxidant capacity, radical scavenging efficiency, and its ability to inhibit enzymes related to skin aging were determined. A total of 146 compounds were annotated in the cherry stem extract. The extract effectively fought against NO· and HOCl radicals with IC50 values of 2.32 and 5.4 mg/L. Additionally, it inhibited HYALase, collagenase, and XOD enzymes with IC50 values of 7.39, 111.92, and 10 mg/L, respectively. Based on the promising results that were obtained, the extract was subsequently gently integrated into a cosmetic gel at different concentrations and subjected to further stability evaluations. The accelerated stability was assessed through temperature ramping, heating-cooling cycles, and centrifugation, while the long-term stability was evaluated by storing the formulations under light and dark conditions for three months. The gel formulation enriched with cherry stem extract exhibited good stability and compatibility for topical application. Cherry stem extract may be a valuable ingredient for creating beneficial skincare cosmeceuticals.

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Niacinamide (or nicotinamide) is a small-molecule hydrosoluble vitamin with essential metabolic functions in mammalian cells. Niacinamide has become a key functional ingredient in diverse skincare products and cosmetics. This vitamin plays a pivotal role in NAD+ synthesis, notably contributing to redox reactions and energy production in cutaneous cells. Via diversified biochemical mechanisms, niacinamide is also known to influence human DNA repair and cellular stress responses. Based on decades of safe use in cosmetics, niacinamide recently gained widespread popularity as an active ingredient which aligns with the "Kligman standards" in skincare. From a therapeutic standpoint, the intrinsic properties of niacinamide may be applied to managing acne vulgaris, melasma, and psoriasis. From a cosmeceutical standpoint, niacinamide has been widely leveraged as a multipurpose antiaging ingredient. Therein, it was shown to significantly reduce cutaneous oxidative stress, inflammation, and pigmentation. Overall, through multimodal mechanisms, niacinamide may be considered to partially prevent and/or reverse several biophysical changes associated with skin aging. The present narrative review provides multifactorial insights into the mechanisms of niacinamide's therapeutic and cosmeceutical functions. The ingredient's evolving role in skincare was critically appraised, with a strong focus on the biochemical mechanisms at play. Finally, novel indications and potential applications of niacinamide in dermal fillers and alternative injectable formulations were prospectively explored.

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Objective: The ability of the skin to maintain homeostasis declines with age. Adaptogens support the capacity of the skin to respond to stress. We sought to evaluate the efficacy of a novel serum comprised of plant-based adaptogens for improving photoaged skin following twice-daily application. Methods: A multi-center, 12-week trial was conducted in participants aged 45 to 65 years, Fitzpatrick Skin Type (FST) I to VI, with mild-to-severe photoaging based on a 10-point grading scale (3 [Minimum] to 7 [Maximum]). Visible improvements were assessed in erythema, pore size, skin dullness, skin texture, and uneven pigmentation utilizing a six-point grading scale (0=None to 5=Severe). Global skin quality was measured utilizing our Global Skin Quality Index (GSQI). Sebum measurements were obtained in a subset of participants. Patient satisfaction and tolerability were recorded throughout the study. Results: Fifty-three participants were enrolled and completed the study. Mean age was 56 years and 66 percent were White, 17 percent were Black, 8 percent were Hispanic, 6 percent were Asian/Pacific Islander, and 81 percent had moderate photodamage. At Week 12, significant mean percent improvements from baseline were demonstrated in erythema (50%), dullness (44%), texture (52%), pore size (23%), and uneven pigmentation (21%; all p<.0001). Significant GSQI improvements from baseline were observed at Week 12 (39%; p<0.0001). Significant mean reductions from baseline in skin surface sebum were demonstrated at Week 12 (-38%; p<0.0001). All adverse events (AEs) were mild and transient. Conclusion: A novel serum comprised of plant-based adaptogens, demonstrated improvements from baseline in the appearance of erythema, dullness, texture, pore size, uneven pigmentation, and global skin quality over 12 weeks. Participants reported high levels of satisfaction, with mild, transient AEs reported.

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Shell waste from shellfish processing contains valuable natural polysaccharides, including sulfated polysaccharides, acidic polysaccharides, glycosaminoglycans, chitin and their derivatives. These shellfish waste-derived polysaccharides have numerous functional and biological properties that can be applied in various industries, including the cosmeceutical industry. In keeping with global sustainability and green industry trends, the cosmeceuticals industry is transitioning from petrochemical-based ingredients to natural substitutes. In this context, shell waste-derived polysaccharides and their derivatives can play a major role as natural substitutes for petroleum-based components in various cosmeceutical skincare, hair care, oral care and body care products. This review focuses on the presence of polysaccharides and their derivatives in shell waste and discusses their various cosmeceutical applications in skin care, hair care, sun care, oral care and body care products. This indicates that shell waste utilization will help create a circular economy in which extracted polysaccharides are used to produce green cosmeceutical products.

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The identification of natural remedies for the management of the skin aging process is an increasingly growing issue. In this context, ursolic acid (UA), a ubiquitous molecule, mainly contained in Annurca apple (AA) fruit, has demonstrated valuable cosmetic potential. To this end, in the current study, the AA oleolite (AAO, extract in sunflower oil containing 784.40 ± 7.579 µg/mL of UA) was evaluated to inhibit porcine elastase enzymatic reactions through a validated spectrophotometric method. AAO has shown a valuable capacity to contrast the elastase enzyme with a calculated IC50 of 212.76 mg/mL, in comparison to UA (IC50 of 135.24 µg/mL) pure molecules and quercetin (IC50 of 72.47 µg/mL) which are used as positive controls. In this context and in view of the valuable antioxidant potential of AAO, its topical formulation with 2.5% (w/w) AAO was tested in a placebo-controlled, double-blind, two-arm clinical study on 40 volunteers. Our results indicated that after 28 days of treatment, a significant reduction of the nasolabial fold (-7.2 vs. baseline T0, p < 0.001) and forehead wrinkles (-5.3 vs. baseline T0, p < 0.001) were registered in combination with a valuable improvement of the viscoelastic skin parameters, where skin pliability/firmness (R0) and gross elasticity (R2) were significantly ameliorated (-13% vs. baseline T0, p < 0.001 for R0 and +12% vs. baseline T0, p < 0.001 for R2). Finally, considering the positive correlation between skin elasticity and hydration, the skin moisture was evaluated through the estimation of Trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin conductance.

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The skin protects humans from pathogens, ultraviolet light, chemicals, mechanical, thermal, and physical injuries as well as hazardous substances. Other important roles of the skin include the regulation of several important physiological processes of the body, sensing stimuli, synthesis of vitamin D, and immune surveillance. However, aging, diseases and environmental conditions significantly change the skin's behavior and functioning. The treatment and prevention strategies for various skin diseases especially photoaging usually include topical treatment with medical cosmetology, active ingredients and other physical means of photoprotection. In recent times, however, there is an increasing consciousness about the role of diet and nutrition in skin health with certain dietary components emerging as an adequate alternative approach to alleviate and prevent both endogenous and exogenous aging symptoms. Therefore, this narrative review uniquely discusses the basic structure of the skin and also addresses common dermatological signs of damaged skin, the impacts of unhealthy diet habits on the skin, and the beneficial effects of some healthy diet habits on skin health. The information and data were collated from various literature databases and resources such as Science Direct, PubMed, Wiley, Springer, Taylor and Francis, Inflibnet, Scopus, Google, and Google Scholar using relevant keywords Medical Subject Headings (MeSH). In conclusion, diet and nutrition play essential roles in the optimum functioning of the human body, including the skin. Thus, certain diet habits such as less water intake, high-fat diet, refined sugar, and certain food additives are unhealthy and harmful to the skin while alternative healthy diet habits such as adequate water intake; consumption of antioxidants and polyphenolic-rich fruits, vegetables, nuts, and legumes; a low glycemic index diet; probiotics; and phytoestrogens should be adopted to enhance skin health.

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