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The Connection Between Resistance Training, Climbing Performance, and Injury Prevention.
Saeterbakken, Atle Hole; Stien, Nicolay; Pedersen, Helene; Langer, Kaja; Scott, Suzanne; Michailov, Michail Lubomirov; Gronhaug, Gudmund; Balás, Jirí; Solstad, Tom Erik Jorung; Andersen, Vidar.
Afiliación
  • Saeterbakken AH; Department of Sport, Food and Natural Sciences, Faculty of Education, Western Norway University of Applied Sciences, Campus Sogndal, Røyrgata 6, 6856, Sogndal, Norway. atle.saeterbakken@hvl.no.
  • Stien N; Department of Sport, Food and Natural Sciences, Faculty of Education, Western Norway University of Applied Sciences, Campus Sogndal, Røyrgata 6, 6856, Sogndal, Norway.
  • Pedersen H; Department of Sport, Food and Natural Sciences, Faculty of Education, Western Norway University of Applied Sciences, Campus Sogndal, Røyrgata 6, 6856, Sogndal, Norway.
  • Langer K; Department of Human Sciences, Institute of Sports Science, Technical University Darmstadt, Darmstadt, Germany.
  • Scott S; School of Anatomy, Faculty of Health and Life Sciences, University of Bristol, Bristol, UK.
  • Michailov ML; Department Theory and Methodology of Sports Training, National Sports Academy, Sofia, Bulgaria.
  • Gronhaug G; Department of Sport, Food and Natural Sciences, Faculty of Education, Western Norway University of Applied Sciences, Campus Sogndal, Røyrgata 6, 6856, Sogndal, Norway.
  • Balás J; Faculty of Physical Education and Sport, Charles University, Prague, Czech Republic.
  • Solstad TEJ; Department of Sport, Food and Natural Sciences, Faculty of Education, Western Norway University of Applied Sciences, Campus Sogndal, Røyrgata 6, 6856, Sogndal, Norway.
  • Andersen V; Department of Sport, Food and Natural Sciences, Faculty of Education, Western Norway University of Applied Sciences, Campus Sogndal, Røyrgata 6, 6856, Sogndal, Norway.
Sports Med Open ; 10(1): 10, 2024 Jan 19.
Article en En | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-38240903
ABSTRACT

BACKGROUND:

Climbing is an intricate sport composed of various disciplines, holds, styles, distances between holds, and levels of difficulty. In highly skilled climbers the potential for further strength-specific adaptations to increase performance may be marginal in elite climbers. With an eye on the upcoming 2024 Paris Olympics, more climbers are trying to maximize performance and improve training strategies. The relationships between muscular strength and climbing performance, as well as the role of strength in injury prevention, remain to be fully elucidated. This narrative review seeks to discuss the current literature regarding the effect of resistance training in improving maximal strength, muscle hypertrophy, muscular power, and local muscular endurance on climbing performance, and as a strategy to prevent injuries. MAIN BODY Since sport climbing requires exerting forces against gravity to maintain grip and move the body along the route, it is generally accepted that a climber`s absolute and relative muscular strength are important for climbing performance. Performance characteristics of forearm flexor muscles (hang-time on ledge, force output, rate of force development, and oxidative capacity) discriminate between climbing performance level, climbing styles, and between climbers and non-climbers. Strength of the hand and wrist flexors, shoulders and upper limbs has gained much attention in the scientific literature, and it has been suggested that both general and specific strength training should be part of a climber`s training program. Furthermore, the ability to generate sub-maximal force in different work-rest ratios has proved useful, in examining finger flexor endurance capacity while trying to mimic real-world climbing demands. Importantly, fingers and shoulders are the most frequent injury locations in climbing. Due to the high mechanical stress and load on the finger flexors, fingerboard and campus board training should be limited in lower-graded climbers. Coaches should address, acknowledge, and screen for amenorrhea and disordered eating in climbers.

CONCLUSION:

Structured low-volume high-resistance training, twice per week hanging from small ledges or a fingerboard, is a feasible approach for climbers. The current injury prevention training aims to increase the level of performance through building tolerance to performance-relevant load exposure and promoting this approach in the climbing field.
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Texto completo: 1 Colección: 01-internacional Base de datos: MEDLINE Idioma: En Revista: Sports Med Open Año: 2024 Tipo del documento: Article País de afiliación: Noruega Pais de publicación: Suiza
Texto completo
Añadir a Mi BVS
Imprimir
XML
PubMed Links
Buscar en Google

Texto completo: 1 Colección: 01-internacional Base de datos: MEDLINE Idioma: En Revista: Sports Med Open Año: 2024 Tipo del documento: Article País de afiliación: Noruega Pais de publicación: Suiza