RESUMO
Archaeological research has identified the use of cultivated cotton (Gossypium barbadense) in the ancient Andes dating back to at least 7800 years ago. Because of unusual circumstances of preservation, 6000-year-old cotton fabrics from the Preceramic site of Huaca Prieta on the north coast of Peru retained traces of a blue pigment that was analyzed and positively identified as an indigoid dye (indigotin), making it the earliest known use of indigo in the world, derived most likely from Indigofera spp. native to South America. This predates by ~1500 years the earliest reported use of indigo in the Old World, from Fifth Dynasty Egypt [ca. 4400 BP (before present)]. Indigo is one of the most valued and most globally widespread dyes of antiquity and of the present era (it being the blue of blue jeans).
Assuntos
Corantes/história , Gossypium/química , Índigo Carmim/história , Arqueologia/história , Corantes/química , Gossypium/crescimento & desenvolvimento , Hispânico ou Latino , História Antiga , Humanos , Índigo Carmim/química , Peru , Têxteis/históriaRESUMO
The present study concerns the identification of nine thus-far unknown derivatives of carminic acid extracted from pre-Columbian Peruvian textiles dyed with American cochineal-these derivatives are not found in commercially available preparations of the dye. These compounds probably represent a unique fingerprint of dyed textiles from this region, as they have never been reported to occur in other fabrics of historical value. They were separated by reversed-phase high-performance liquid chromatography (phenyl column) and detected using a UV/vis spectrophotometer and two tandem mass spectrometers. Peaks observed in chromatograms registered at 450 and 500 nm were further identified by ESI QqQ MS (mainly in the negative ion mode), supported by high-resolution ESI QIT/ToF MS data. The characteristic fragmentation pathways of isolated carminic acid and its derivatives provided additional information concerning lost neutrals and thus the functional groups and substituents present in the parent molecules. This information mainly related to multiple cleavages of the hexoside moiety (initially cross-ring cleavage), which are characteristic of C-glucosides (loss of 90, 120, and 148 Da). This is accompanied by the elimination of H2O as well as the further loss of 60 Da from the hexoside moiety. Moreover, other losses from the carbonyl groups (44 Da from CO2 loss, 62 Da from ethylene glycol loss, 32 Da from O2 loss, 138 Da from hydroxybenzoic acid, and 120 Da from oxomethylene cyclohexadienone) provided more specific information about structures of the identified derivatives of carminic acid.