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The development of cosmetic formulations with moisturizing and film-forming properties has been very important to help keep skin physiology and protection. In this context, this study aimed to develop a cosmetic formulation containing Tara gum and Brazilian berry extract and evaluate its physical-mechanical, film-forming, and sensory properties. A gel formulation was developed based on Tara gum added to Plinia cauliflora extract and was characterized by its spreadability profile and sensory properties. A clinical study was carried out with ten participants to evaluate the skin microrelief, stratum corneum water content, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and skin morphological characteristics by reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM) before and after 2 h of application of the formulations. The formulation with Brazilian berry significantly decreased the work of shear parameter, which can be correlated with improved spreadability in the sensory analysis. The clinical study showed that both formulations improved skin hydration and reduced the TEWL. The RCM imaging analysis showed the visible film on the skin surface, a decrease in the size of furrows, an increase in the reflectance of the interkeratinocytes, and reflectance of the stratum corneum for both formulations. These results were more pronounced for the formulation containing Brazilian berry. The Tara gum in the gel formulation promoted the formation and visualization of a polymeric net on the stratum corneum surface, demonstrated by the images obtained from RCM. However, the formulation added with the Brazilian berry extract improved the skin microrelief, honeycomb pattern of the epidermis, and skin hydration in deeper layers of the epidermis.

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OBJECTIVE: This study aimed to assess the effect of 1,3-propanediol at different concentrations (5%, 10%, or 15%), either applied alone or in combination with butylene glycol (BG) (5%) and/or glycerol (5%), on skin hydration and skin barrier function. The measurements were conducted using capacitance to determine skin hydration and trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) rates to evaluate skin barrier function. METHODS: A total of 30 healthy female subjects participated in the study. Capacitance and TEWL measurements were conducted at multiple time points, including before application and at 15 min, 2 and 8 h after the humectants were applied to the forearms of the subjects. All the subjects provided written informed consent. RESULTS: The 1,3-propanediol in all concentrations and in all combinations (with BG and/or glycerol) increased skin hydration and improved skin barrier function 15 min, 2 and 8 h after application. Glycerol increased the hydration performance of 1,3-propanediol. The application of 1,3-propanediol at a concentration of 15%, either alone or in combination with other humectants, reduced the TEWL to a greater extent than lower concentrations of 1,3-propanediol. Furthermore, the addition of glycerol to 1,3-propanediol 15% improved the skin barrier and reduced TEWL when compared with 1,3-propanediol alone and with the combination of 1,3-propanediol + BG. CONCLUSION: The humectants significantly improved skin hydration and reduced TEWL throughout the 8-h time course. The increase in 1,3-propanediol concentration, as well as its combination with glycerol, provided a greater benefit to the skin, improving both hydration and the skin barrier function.

OBJECTIF: Cette étude visait à évaluer l'effet sur l'hydratation de la peau et la fonction de barrière cutanée du 1,3-propanediol à différentes concentrations (5 %, 10 % ou 15 %), appliqué seul ou en association avec du butylène glycol (5 %) et/ou du glycérol (5 %). Les mesures ont été effectuées à l'aide de la capacitance pour déterminer l'hydratation de la peau et les taux de perte d'eau transépidermique (Trans Epidermal Water Loss, TEWL) pour évaluer la fonction de barrière cutanée. MÉTHODES: Au total, 30 sujets de sexe féminin en bonne santé ont participé à l'étude. Les mesures de la capacitance et de la TEWL ont été effectuées à plusieurs moments, y compris avant l'application, 15 minutes, 2 heures et 8 heures après l'application des produits humectant sur les avant-bras des sujets. Tous les sujets ont fourni un consentement éclairé écrit. RÉSULTATS: Le 1,3-propanediol, à toutes les concentrations et dans toutes les associations (avec le butylène glycol et/ou le glycérol), a augmenté l'hydratation de la peau et amélioré la fonction de barrière cutanée à 15 minutes, 2 heures et 8 heures après l'application. Le glycérol a augmenté les performances d'hydratation du 1,3-propanediol. L'application de 1,3-propanediol à une concentration de 15 %, seul ou en association avec d'autres produits humectant, a réduit la TEWL dans une plus grande mesure que des concentrations inférieures de 1,3-propanediol. En outre, l'ajout de glycérol au 1,3-propanediol 15 % a amélioré la barrière cutanée et réduit la TEWL par rapport au 1,3-propanediol seul et à l'association 1,3-propanediol + butylène glycol. CONCLUSION: Les produits humectant ont significativement amélioré l'hydratation de la peau et réduit la TEWL tout au long des 8 heures. L'augmentation de la concentration de 1,3-propanediol, ainsi que son association avec le glycérol, ont apporté un plus grand bénéfice à la peau, améliorant à la fois l'hydratation et la fonction de barrière cutanée.

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BACKGROUND: Topical use of dexpanthenol presents well-established moisturizing properties and maintenance and repair of the skin barrier function, however, its exact action mechanisms are not completely elucidated. In this context, Confocal Raman Microspectroscopy is an optical method that enables non-invasive and non-destructive in vivo analysis with the sensitive acquisition of molecular changes in different skin layers. Herein, the aim was to evaluate the effects of topical dexpanthenol on the components and physiological parameters of the stratum corneum (SC). MATERIALS AND METHODS: Ten healthy female subjects underwent skin evaluation by means of a Confocal Raman Spectrometer Skin Analyzer 3510. Spectral data were obtained from the skin of the anterior forearm region, before and 2 h after applying a cosmetic formulation containing or not containing 5% dexpanthenol. RESULTS: Semiquantitative analysis of the natural moisturizing factor showed a significant decrease in content after 2 h of topical dexpanthenol application, while the analysis of the lamellar organization of intercellular lipids and the secondary structure of keratin showed a significant increase in hexagonal organization of lipids at the first half of the SC and a significant increase in ß-pleated sheet conformation of keratin. CONCLUSION: Effects of topical dexpanthenol on SC suggest a contribution in increasing fluidity of both lipidic and protein components of the SC and are compatible with dexpanthenol activity in maintaining adequate physiological conditions and preventing transepidermal water loss. This study also contributes to the elucidation of action mechanisms and other concurrent biochemical processes.

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Diabetes causes increased production of advanced glycation end products (AGEs), which may lead to irreversible damage to collagen fibers, and early and more accentuated signs of skin aging. Thus, the objective of this study was to evaluate diabetic skin's mechanical and morphological characteristics and compare these to healthy skin. Twenty-eight female participants aged between 39 and 55 years were enrolled: half had type 2 diabetes, and the others were healthy. Wrinkles, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), stratum corneum water content, skin color, elasticity, morphological and structural characteristics of epidermis and dermis echogenicity were evaluated using biophysical and skin imaging techniques. Higher TEWL values were observed in participants with diabetes, who also showed lower skin elasticity and wrinkles with greater volume, area, and depth. In addition, the Reflectance Confocal Microscopy (RCM) imaging analysis showed that all participants with diabetes presented polycyclic papillae and deformed and amorphous collagen fibers. The obtained data showed significant differences between healthy and diabetic skin and could help develop more specific topical treatments to improve the treatment of skin conditions in people with diabetes. Finally, RCM is an advanced imaging technique that allows for a more profound analysis of diabetic skin, which could assist in the evaluation of dermocosmetic treatments to improve the skin alterations caused by this disease.

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The film-forming effect is an important property of formulations for skin improvement and hair protection. Reflectance confocal microscopy, an advanced imaging technique, is an important tool for its evaluation. Thus, the aim of this study was to evaluate the film-forming properties of cosmetic formulations based on starches and containing a Spirulina maxima extract after their application to skin and hair, using sensorial analysis and instrumental measurements, with emphasis on reflectance confocal microscopy. Two formulations based on starches and PEG-75 lanolin containing or not (Vehicle) a Spirulina maxima dry extract were developed. The rheological behavior and sensorial properties of both formulations were evaluated. The film-forming property on the skin was evaluated in terms of skin hydration by RCM imaging analysis and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The hair tresses were evaluated in terms of mechanical properties and RCM imaging analysis. The formulations showed pseudoplastic behavior and a low hysteresis area. In addition, the presence of Spirulina in the formulation did not interfere in the rheological parameters. Both formulations reduced TEWL and maintained the stratum corneum water content. The protective effect was also observed in the hair, since the application of the formulation with Spirulina showed a better performance in the tensile test when compared to vehicle. Thus, the proposed formulation showed film formation on the skin and hair surface that brought immediate benefits such as a reduction of TEWL. Finally, the formulations were shown to have film-forming effects and their use can be suggested for skin and hair protection against daily damage.

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OBJECTIVE: To evaluate the safety and the synergistic effects of tea tree, lavender, eucalyptus and tangerine essential oils in combination on the skin using in vitro, ex vivo and clinical studies. METHODS: The phototoxicity was predicted using 3T3 neutral red uptake phototoxicity test (OECD TG 432). Skin penetration was evaluated by confocal Raman microspectroscopy using direct application of essential oils to pig ears. For the clinical studies, 40 participants were enrolled and randomized in three groups: (1) lavender, eucalyptus and tangerine, (2) the same essential oils plus melaleuca and (3) placebo group. The skin was evaluated by noninvasive techniques before and after a 90-day period of topical use. RESULTS: The essential oils were non-phototoxic, but the tangerine oil showed dose-dependent cytotoxicity (IC50: 33.1 µg/ml), presenting 35% of penetration in the viable epidermis. On the contrary, 17.7 µg/ml in combination was applied per day in the clinical study and the penetration rate for the combinations (10%, 1.77 µg/ml achieving the viable epidermis) guaranteed the safety, since in the clinical study, the application of the four essential oils improved skin barrier and morphologic skin characteristics, as well as increased skin hydration and decreased sebum levels, with no unwanted effects reported. CONCLUSIONS: All essential oils studied were considered non-cytotoxic or non-phototoxic separately except tangerine, which present a dose-dependent cytotoxicity. Finally, the essential oils in combination in an appropriate amount were safe and effective in the improvement of the hydrolipidic balance and morphological properties of the skin.

OBJECTIF: évaluer la sécurité d'emploi et les effets synergiques des associations d'huiles essentielles d'arbre à thé, de lavande, d'eucalyptus et de mandarine sur la peau à l'aide d'études in vitro, ex vivo et cliniques. MÉTHODES: la phototoxicité a été prédite avec le test de phototoxicité de fixation du rouge neutre 3T3 (OCDE TG 432). La pénétration cutanée a été évaluée par microspectroscopie confocale de Raman grâce à l'application directe d'huiles essentielles sur les oreilles de cochons. Pour les études cliniques, 40 participants ont été inclus et randomisés dans trois groupes : (1) lavande, eucalyptus et mandarine, (2) les mêmes huiles essentielles plus melaleuca et (3) un groupe placebo. La peau a été évaluée par des techniques non invasives avant et après une période d'utilisation topique de 90 jours. RÉSULTATS: les huiles essentielles se sont avérées non phototoxiques, mais l'huile de mandarine a montré une cytotoxicité dose-dépendante (CI 50 : 33,1 µg/ml), représentant 35 % de pénétration dans l'épiderme viable. À l'inverse, dans l'étude clinique, une quantité de 17,7 µg/ml par jour en association a été appliquée, et le taux de pénétration des associations (10 %, soit 1,77 µg/ml atteignant l'épiderme viable) a garanti la sécurité d'emploi, puisque dans l'étude clinique, l'application des quatre huiles essentielles a amélioré la barrière cutanée et les caractéristiques morphologiques de la peau, et a entraîné une augmentation de l'hydratation cutanée et une diminution des taux de sébum, sans signalement d'effets indésirables. CONCLUSIONS: chacune des huiles essentielles étudiées a été considérée comme non cytotoxique ou non phototoxique, à l'exception de la mandarine, qui présente une cytotoxicité dose-dépendante. Enfin, l'association d'huiles essentielles en quantité appropriée a démontré sa sécurité d'emploi et son efficacité dans l'amélioration de l'équilibre hydrolipidique et des propriétés morphologiques de la peau.

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Lipid nanoparticles have shown many advantages for treatment/prevention of skin disorders with damaged skin barrier function. Beeswax is a favorable candidate for the development of nanosystems in the cosmetic and dermatological fields because of its advantages for the development of products for topical application. In the present study, beeswax-based nanoparticles (BNs) were prepared using the hot melt microemulsion technique and incorporated to a gel-cream formulation. The formulation was subsequently evaluated for its rheological stability and effect on stratum corneum water content (SCWC) and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) using in vivo biophysical techniques. BNs resulted in mean particle size of 95.72 ± 9.63 nm and zeta potential of -9.85 ± 0.57 mV. BN-loaded formulation showed shear thinning behavior, well adjusted by the Herschel-Bulkley model, and a small thixotropy index that were stable for 28 days at different temperatures. BN-loaded formulation was also able to simultaneously decrease the TEWL and increase the SCWC values 28 days after treatment. In conclusion, the novel beeswax-based nanoparticles showed potential for barrier recovery and open the perspective for its commercial use as a novel natural active as yet unexplored in the field of dermatology and cosmetics for treatment of skin diseases with damaged skin barrier function.

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During the aging process, the human skin suffers many alterations including dryness, skin barrier function damage. The skin barrier function is important to the prevention of skin alterations and maintenance of homeostasis. So, the objective of this study was to assess the clinical efficacy on skin barrier function of Cichorium intybus root extract in cosmetic formulations with or without UV filters. Fifty women, aged between 45 and 60 years, were divided into two groups. One group received vehicle formulations containing UV filters, and the other group received formulations without UV filters. Both groups received a formulation containing the extract and the vehicle. The formulations were applied twice daily to the upper arms after washing with sodium lauryl sulphate. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin microrelief were evaluated before and after a 14- and 28-day period of treatment. The control regions and regions where the vehicles were applied showed an increase in the TEWL. For the formulations containing the extract, decreased TEWL and improved microrelief were observed when compared to the vehicle and control areas after a 28-day period. In conclusion, Cichorium intybus root extract showed protective and restructuring effects on the skin and stands out as an innovative ingredient to improve skin barrier function.

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