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The development of cosmetic formulations with moisturizing and film-forming properties has been very important to help keep skin physiology and protection. In this context, this study aimed to develop a cosmetic formulation containing Tara gum and Brazilian berry extract and evaluate its physical-mechanical, film-forming, and sensory properties. A gel formulation was developed based on Tara gum added to Plinia cauliflora extract and was characterized by its spreadability profile and sensory properties. A clinical study was carried out with ten participants to evaluate the skin microrelief, stratum corneum water content, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and skin morphological characteristics by reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM) before and after 2 h of application of the formulations. The formulation with Brazilian berry significantly decreased the work of shear parameter, which can be correlated with improved spreadability in the sensory analysis. The clinical study showed that both formulations improved skin hydration and reduced the TEWL. The RCM imaging analysis showed the visible film on the skin surface, a decrease in the size of furrows, an increase in the reflectance of the interkeratinocytes, and reflectance of the stratum corneum for both formulations. These results were more pronounced for the formulation containing Brazilian berry. The Tara gum in the gel formulation promoted the formation and visualization of a polymeric net on the stratum corneum surface, demonstrated by the images obtained from RCM. However, the formulation added with the Brazilian berry extract improved the skin microrelief, honeycomb pattern of the epidermis, and skin hydration in deeper layers of the epidermis.

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BACKGROUND: Microplastics (MPs) and nanoplastics (NPs) have become a growing concern in dermatology due to their widespread presence in cosmetic formulations and the environment. These minuscule synthetic polymer particles prompt an essential exploration of their potential impact on dermatological homeostasis. AIMS: This study aims to investigate the effects of MPs and NPs on the integumentary system. Specifically, it seeks to understand the potential cutaneous alterations, inflammatory responses, and disruptions to the skin's physiological functions caused by these synthetic particles. PATIENTS/METHODS: The investigation involves a comprehensive analysis of emerging research on MPs and NPs. This includes their presence in cosmetic formulations and environmental pervasiveness. The study delves into their capacity to breach the cutaneous barrier, raising concerns about the implications of prolonged exposure. RESULTS: Evidence suggests that MPs and NPs may indeed incite cutaneous alterations, provoke inflammatory responses, and disturb the homeostasis of the skin's physiological functions. Their small dimensions enhance their capability to breach the cutaneous barrier, further emphasizing the apprehensions associated with prolonged exposure. CONCLUSIONS: While a precise understanding of the implications of MPs and NPs on dermatological health remains an ongoing scientific endeavor, this study underscores the growing significance of these synthetic particles. The findings emphasize the need for proactive measures to safeguard both individual well-being and environmental preservation in the context of dermatological health.

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OBJECTIVE: This study aimed to assess the effect of 1,3-propanediol at different concentrations (5%, 10%, or 15%), either applied alone or in combination with butylene glycol (BG) (5%) and/or glycerol (5%), on skin hydration and skin barrier function. The measurements were conducted using capacitance to determine skin hydration and trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) rates to evaluate skin barrier function. METHODS: A total of 30 healthy female subjects participated in the study. Capacitance and TEWL measurements were conducted at multiple time points, including before application and at 15 min, 2 and 8 h after the humectants were applied to the forearms of the subjects. All the subjects provided written informed consent. RESULTS: The 1,3-propanediol in all concentrations and in all combinations (with BG and/or glycerol) increased skin hydration and improved skin barrier function 15 min, 2 and 8 h after application. Glycerol increased the hydration performance of 1,3-propanediol. The application of 1,3-propanediol at a concentration of 15%, either alone or in combination with other humectants, reduced the TEWL to a greater extent than lower concentrations of 1,3-propanediol. Furthermore, the addition of glycerol to 1,3-propanediol 15% improved the skin barrier and reduced TEWL when compared with 1,3-propanediol alone and with the combination of 1,3-propanediol + BG. CONCLUSION: The humectants significantly improved skin hydration and reduced TEWL throughout the 8-h time course. The increase in 1,3-propanediol concentration, as well as its combination with glycerol, provided a greater benefit to the skin, improving both hydration and the skin barrier function.

OBJECTIF: Cette étude visait à évaluer l'effet sur l'hydratation de la peau et la fonction de barrière cutanée du 1,3-propanediol à différentes concentrations (5 %, 10 % ou 15 %), appliqué seul ou en association avec du butylène glycol (5 %) et/ou du glycérol (5 %). Les mesures ont été effectuées à l'aide de la capacitance pour déterminer l'hydratation de la peau et les taux de perte d'eau transépidermique (Trans Epidermal Water Loss, TEWL) pour évaluer la fonction de barrière cutanée. MÉTHODES: Au total, 30 sujets de sexe féminin en bonne santé ont participé à l'étude. Les mesures de la capacitance et de la TEWL ont été effectuées à plusieurs moments, y compris avant l'application, 15 minutes, 2 heures et 8 heures après l'application des produits humectant sur les avant-bras des sujets. Tous les sujets ont fourni un consentement éclairé écrit. RÉSULTATS: Le 1,3-propanediol, à toutes les concentrations et dans toutes les associations (avec le butylène glycol et/ou le glycérol), a augmenté l'hydratation de la peau et amélioré la fonction de barrière cutanée à 15 minutes, 2 heures et 8 heures après l'application. Le glycérol a augmenté les performances d'hydratation du 1,3-propanediol. L'application de 1,3-propanediol à une concentration de 15 %, seul ou en association avec d'autres produits humectant, a réduit la TEWL dans une plus grande mesure que des concentrations inférieures de 1,3-propanediol. En outre, l'ajout de glycérol au 1,3-propanediol 15 % a amélioré la barrière cutanée et réduit la TEWL par rapport au 1,3-propanediol seul et à l'association 1,3-propanediol + butylène glycol. CONCLUSION: Les produits humectant ont significativement amélioré l'hydratation de la peau et réduit la TEWL tout au long des 8 heures. L'augmentation de la concentration de 1,3-propanediol, ainsi que son association avec le glycérol, ont apporté un plus grand bénéfice à la peau, améliorant à la fois l'hydratation et la fonction de barrière cutanée.

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OBJECTIVE: Excessive skin exposure to deleterious environmental variables results in inflammation as well as molecular and cellular impairments that compromise its functionality, aesthetic qualities, and overall well-being. The implementation of topical administration of antioxidants and other compounds as a method for preventing or reversing damage is a rational approach. Numerous phenolic compounds derived from plants have demonstrated capabilities such as scavenging free radicals and promoting tissue healing. However, the primary obstacle lies in effectively delivering these compounds to the specific place on the skin, and accurately forecasting their diffusion through the skin can assist in determining the most effective tactics. Hence, this article provides a comprehensive analysis of recent literature pertaining to the in vitro skin diffusion characteristics of plant phenolics. The aim is to gain a deeper understanding of their behaviour when present in various forms such as solutions, suspensions, and formulations. METHOD: The data on plant extracts and isolated plant phenolic compounds in vitro skin diffusion assays published over the last six years were compiled and discussed. RESULTS: Even though the gold standard Franz diffusion cell is the most commonly used in the assessment of in vitro plant phenolic skin diffusion profiles, a plethora of skin models and assay conditions are reported for a variety of compounds and extracts in different vehicles. CONCLUSION: The presence of numerous models and vehicles poses a challenge in creating correlations among the existing data on plant phenolic compounds. However, it is possible to draw some general conclusions regarding molecular, vehicle, and skin characteristics based on the gathered information.

OBJECTIF: Une exposition excessive de la peau a des variables environnementales délétères entraîne une inflammation ainsi que des déficiences moléculaires et cellulaires qui compromettent sa fonctionnalité, ses qualités esthétiques et son bien­être général. La mise en œuvre de l'administration topique d'antioxydants et d'autres composés comme méthode de prévention ou d'inversion des dommages est une approche rationnelle. De nombreux composés phénoliques dérivés de plantes ont démontré des capacités telles que l'élimination des radicaux libres et la promotion de la cicatrisation des tissus. Cependant, le principal obstacle réside dans l'administration efficace de ces composés à un endroit spécifique de la peau, et une prévision précise de leur diffusion a travers la peau peut aider à déterminer les tactiques les plus efficaces. Par conséquent, cet article fournit une analyse complète de la littérature récente concernant les caractéristiques de diffusion cutanée in vitro des composés phénoliques végétaux. L'objectif est de mieux comprendre leur comportement lorsqu'ils sont présents sous diverses formes telles que solutions, suspensions et formulations. MÉTHODES: Les données sur les extraits de plantes et les composés phénoliques végétaux isolés in vitro par diffusion cutanée, publiées au cours des six dernières années, ont été compilées et discutées. RÉSULTATS: Même si la cellule de diffusion Franz de référence est la plus couramment utilisée dans l'évaluation des profils de diffusion cutanée phénoliques végétales in vitro, une pléthore de modelés de peau et de conditions d'analyse sont rapportées pour une variété de composés et d'extraits dans différents véhicules. CONCLUSION: La présence de nombreux modèles et véhicules pose un défi dans la création de corrélations entre les données existantes sur les composés phénoliques végétaux. Cependant, il est possible de tirer des conclusions générales concernant les caractéristiques moléculaires du véhicule et de la peau sur la base des informations recueillies.

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BACKGROUND: Maternal overweight and obesity have been associated with an increased risk of atopic dermatitis (AD) in the offspring, but the underlying mechanisms are unclear. Vernix caseosa (VC) is a proteolipid material covering the fetus produced during skin development. However, whether maternal prepregnancy weight excess influences fetal skin development is unknown. Characterizing the VC of newborns from mothers with prepregnancy overweight and obesity might reveal AD-prone alterations during fetal skin development. OBJECTIVE: We sought to explore AD biomarkers and staphylococcal loads in VC from the offspring of mothers who were overweight/obese (O/O) before pregnancy versus in those from offspring of normal weight mothers. METHODS: The VC of newborns of 14 O/O and 12 normal weight mothers were collected immediately after birth. Biomarkers were determined by ELISA and staphylococcal species by quantitative PCR. RESULTS: The VC from the O/O group showed decreased expression of skin barrier proteins (filaggrin and loricrin) and increased levels of proinflammatory biomarkers (IgA, thymic stromal lymphopoietin [TSLP], S100A8, IL-25, and IL-33). No differences in concentrations of antimicrobial peptides and enzymes were detected. The VC from the O/O group had a lower Staphylococcus epidermidis and Staphylococcus hominis commensal bacterial load, whereas Staphylococcus aureus bacterial load was not significantly different between the 2 groups. Maternal body mass index was negatively correlated with VC filaggrin expression and S epidermidis load and was positively associated with TSLP concentration. One-year follow-up established that the offspring of O/O mothers had a higher incidence of AD that was specifically linked with decreased VC filaggrin expression and lower S epidermidis load. CONCLUSIONS: VC from neonates of mothers with prepregnancy overweight and obesity exhibit skin barrier molecular alterations and staphylococcal dysbiosis that suggest early mechanistic clues to this population's increased risk of AD.

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OBJECTIVE: This study aimed to develop a holobiont tablet with rapid dispersibility to provide regulation of the microbiota, virucidal activity, and skin barrier protection. METHODS: A 23 factorial experiment was planned to define the best formulation for the development of the base tablet, using average weight, hardness, dimensions, swelling rate, and disintegration time as parameters to be analyzed. To produce holobiont tablets, the chosen base formulation was fabricated by direct compression of prebiotics, postbiotics, and excipients. The tablets also incorporated solid lipid nanoparticles containing postbiotics that were obtained by high-pressure homogenization and freeze-drying. The in vitro virucidal activity against alpha-coronavirus particles (CCoV-VR809) was determined in VERO cell culture. In vitro analysis, using monolayer cells and human equivalent skin, was performed by rRTq-PCR to determine the expression of interleukins 1, 6, 8, and 17, aquaporin-3, involucrin, filaggrin, FoxO3, and SIRT-1. Antioxidant activity and collagen-1 synthesis were also performed in fibroblast cells. Metagenomic analysis of the skin microbiome was determined in vivo before and after application of the holobiont tablet, during one week of continuous use, and compared to the use of alcohol gel. Samples were analyzed by sequencing the V3-V4 region of the 16S rRNA gene. RESULTS: A handrub tablet with rapid dispersibility was developed for topical use and rinse off. After being defined as safe, the virucidal activity was found to be equal to or greater than that of 70% alcohol, with a reduction in interleukins and maintenance or improvement of skin barrier gene markers, in addition to the reestablishment of the skin microbiota after use. CONCLUSIONS: The holobiont tablets were able to improve the genetic markers related to the skin barrier and also its microbiota, thereby being more favorable for use as a hand sanitizer than 70% alcohol.

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BACKGROUND: Topical use of dexpanthenol presents well-established moisturizing properties and maintenance and repair of the skin barrier function, however, its exact action mechanisms are not completely elucidated. In this context, Confocal Raman Microspectroscopy is an optical method that enables non-invasive and non-destructive in vivo analysis with the sensitive acquisition of molecular changes in different skin layers. Herein, the aim was to evaluate the effects of topical dexpanthenol on the components and physiological parameters of the stratum corneum (SC). MATERIALS AND METHODS: Ten healthy female subjects underwent skin evaluation by means of a Confocal Raman Spectrometer Skin Analyzer 3510. Spectral data were obtained from the skin of the anterior forearm region, before and 2 h after applying a cosmetic formulation containing or not containing 5% dexpanthenol. RESULTS: Semiquantitative analysis of the natural moisturizing factor showed a significant decrease in content after 2 h of topical dexpanthenol application, while the analysis of the lamellar organization of intercellular lipids and the secondary structure of keratin showed a significant increase in hexagonal organization of lipids at the first half of the SC and a significant increase in ß-pleated sheet conformation of keratin. CONCLUSION: Effects of topical dexpanthenol on SC suggest a contribution in increasing fluidity of both lipidic and protein components of the SC and are compatible with dexpanthenol activity in maintaining adequate physiological conditions and preventing transepidermal water loss. This study also contributes to the elucidation of action mechanisms and other concurrent biochemical processes.

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OBJECTIVE: The microbiome plays an important role in a wide variety of skin disorders. Hence, dysbiosis in the skin and/or gut microbiome is associated with an altered immune response, promoting the development of skin diseases, such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, acne vulgaris and dandruff. Studies have shown that paraprobiotics may be promising for the treatment of skin disorders through microbiota modulation and immunomodulation. So, the objective is to develop an anti-dandruff formulation using a paraprobiotic (Neoimuno) as active ingredient. METHODS: Randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial was performed in patients who had any degree of dandruff. A total of 33 volunteers were recruited and randomly divided into two groups: placebo or treated. (1% Neoimuno). The ingredient used was Neoimuno (Bifidobacterium lactis strain CCT 7858). Combability analysis and perception questionnaire were applied before and after treatment. Statistical analyses were performed. RESULTS: No adverse effects were reported by patients throughout the study. Through the combability analysis, a significant decrease in the number of particles was verified after 28 days of shampoo use. Regarding perception, there was a significant difference for the cleaning variables and improvement of the general appearance 28 days after the intervention. There were no significant differences for the itching and scaling parameters, as well as the perception parameters at 14 days. DISCUSSION: Topical application of the paraprobiotic shampoo containing 1% Neoimuno was able to significantly improve the feeling of cleanliness and general aspects of dandruff, in addition to reducing scalp flakiness. Thus, with the results obtained through the clinical trial, Neoimuno presents itself as a natural, safe and effective ingredient in the treatment of dandruff. The efficacy of Neoimuno in dandruff was visible within 4 weeks.

OBJECTIF: Le microbiome joue un rôle important dans une grande variété de troubles cutanés. Ainsi, la dysbiose du microbiome cutané et/ou intestinal est associée à une réponse immunitaire altérée, favorisant le développement de maladies cutanées, telles que la dermatite atopique, le psoriasis, l'acné vulgaire et les pellicules. Des études ont montré que les paraprobiotiques peuvent être prometteurs pour le traitement des troubles cutanés par la modulation du microbiote et l'immunomodulation. Ainsi, l'objectif est de développer une formulation antipelliculaire utilisant un paraprobiotique (Neoimuno) comme principe actif. MÉTHODES: Un essai clinique randomisé, en double aveugle et contrôlé par placebo a été réalisé chez des patients présentant des pellicules de n'importe quel degré. Au total, 33 volontaires ont été recrutés et divisés au hasard en deux groupes: placebo ou traité. (1% Neoimuno). L'ingrédient utilisé était le Neoimuno (souche Bifidobacterium lactis CCT 7858). Une analyse de combabilité et un questionnaire de perception ont été appliqués avant et après le traitement. Des analyses statistiques ont été effectuées. RÉSULTATS: Aucun effet indésirable n'a été signalé par les patients tout au long de l'étude. Grâce à l'analyse de combabilité, une diminution significative du nombre de particules a été vérifiée après 28 jours d'utilization du shampooing. Concernant la perception, il y avait une différence significative pour les variables de nettoyage et d'amélioration de l'aspect général 28 jours après l'intervention. Il n'y avait pas de différences significatives pour les paramètres de démangeaison et de desquamation, ainsi que les paramètres de perception à 14 jours. DISCUSSION: L'application topique du shampooing paraprobiotique contenant 1% de Neoimuno a pu améliorer significativement la sensation de propreté et les aspects généraux des pellicules, en plus de réduire la desquamation du cuir chevelu. Ainsi, avec les résultats obtenus grâce à l'essai clinique, Neoimuno se présente comme un ingrédient naturel, sûr et efficace dans le traitement des pellicules. L'efficacité de Neoimuno sur les pellicules a été visible en 4 semaines.

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Achieving the best possible outcome for the therapy is the main goal of a medicine. Therefore, nanocarriers and co-delivery strategies were invented to meet this need, as they can benefit many diseases. This approach was applied specifically for cancer treatment, with some success. However, these strategies may benefit many other clinical issues. Skin is the largest and most exposed organ of the human body, with physiological and psychological properties. Due to its exposition and importance, it is not difficult to understand how many skin diseases may impact on patients' lives, representing an important burden for society. Thus, this review aims to summarize the state of the art in research concerning nanocarriers and co-delivery strategies for topical agents' applications targeting skin diseases. The challenge for the medicine of the future is to deliver the drug with spatial and temporal control. Therefore, the co-encapsulation of drugs and the appropriate form of administration for them are so important and remain as unmet needs.

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Diabetes causes increased production of advanced glycation end products (AGEs), which may lead to irreversible damage to collagen fibers, and early and more accentuated signs of skin aging. Thus, the objective of this study was to evaluate diabetic skin's mechanical and morphological characteristics and compare these to healthy skin. Twenty-eight female participants aged between 39 and 55 years were enrolled: half had type 2 diabetes, and the others were healthy. Wrinkles, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), stratum corneum water content, skin color, elasticity, morphological and structural characteristics of epidermis and dermis echogenicity were evaluated using biophysical and skin imaging techniques. Higher TEWL values were observed in participants with diabetes, who also showed lower skin elasticity and wrinkles with greater volume, area, and depth. In addition, the Reflectance Confocal Microscopy (RCM) imaging analysis showed that all participants with diabetes presented polycyclic papillae and deformed and amorphous collagen fibers. The obtained data showed significant differences between healthy and diabetic skin and could help develop more specific topical treatments to improve the treatment of skin conditions in people with diabetes. Finally, RCM is an advanced imaging technique that allows for a more profound analysis of diabetic skin, which could assist in the evaluation of dermocosmetic treatments to improve the skin alterations caused by this disease.

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Purpose: Tretinoin is a topical gold standard for photoaging treatment. However, patient adherence can be impaired by local tolerability in the first 1-2 weeks of treatment. Mineral 89 Probiotic Fractions® (M89PF) containing Vichy volcanic mineralizing water®, probiotic fractions, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide and tocopherol was developed to fulfill the need for adjunctive products that can reinforce skin barrier and manage retinoid induced irritation. Patients and Methods: The study included 38 women, aged 44-60 years, phototype II-VI, applying 0.025% tretinoin gel once nightly for 84 days. For 28 days, one hemi face was treated with M89PF and sunscreen SPF 50+ while other hemi face received sunscreen only. Then, M89PF application was changed to full face. Evaluations were performed at days 0, 7, 28 and 84. Erythema, dryness, fine lines, skin tone, radiance and pore appearance were assessed by a dermatologist. Tolerability was evaluated through self-assessment questionnaire. Skin hydration levels, inflammatory and oxidative stress biomarkers were analyzed by immunological assay: Interleukin(IL)-8, IL1-alpha, IL1-Receptor Antagonist (IL-1Ra), Prostaglandin E2 (PGE2), Catalase and Superoxide Dismutase (SOD). Results: Hemiface analysis showed that erythema, fine lines, skin tone, radiance, pore appearance, hydration, tightness, dryness, burning, itching and stinging sensations were improved (p<0.05) on the M89PF side. At full face analysis on D84, erythema, fine lines, skin tone, radiance and pore appearance were improved compared to D0 (p<0.001). Tightness, dryness, burning, itching and stinging were reduced when compared to D7 (p<0.05). Dermatology Life Quality Index (DLQI) and Skindex 16 showed improvement in quality of life (p<0.05). IL-1RA increased at D28 (p=0.003) and PGE2 decreased at D28 and D84 compared to D0 (p<0.01). Conclusion: M89PF reduced retinoid induced irritation with a good tolerability profile and, used as an adjunct to topical tretinoin, significantly improved skin hydration, erythema, fine lines, skin tone, radiance and pore appearance.

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OBJECTIVE: Coffee is one of the most consumed beverages worldwide, and its production and consumption generate large amounts of by-products annually. Coffee by-products and coffee beans are rich in bioactive compounds of great commercial value, including potential applications as active ingredients in skin care products and cosmetic formulations. In addition, there has been growing interest in the use of natural ingredients for cosmetic purposes. Considering the importance of coffee in the world economy, its chemical constituents with potential for cosmetic and dermatological application, and the importance of patents for innovation and technological development, the present study aimed to review recent patents involving coffee and coffee by-product use in cosmetics. METHODS: This review was carried out using Espacenet. The following inclusion criteria were established: patents that included the terms "coffee" and "skin" in the title, abstract and claims and belonged to the classification A61Q, which is related to the "specific use of cosmetics or similar toilet preparations" considering the International Patent Classification (IPC) or Cooperative Patent Classification (CPC). RESULTS: Considering the 52 patents analysed, the bean was the main way to obtain extracts (39), followed by green beans (7), silverskin (3), peel and pulp (1), pulp (1) and beans and leaves (1). The formulations are mainly intended for use in nonspecific areas of skin (29), eye areas (12), scalp hair (9) and lip skin (2) with claims of anti-ageing, moisturizers, sun protection, hair growth, anti-dandruff, etc. CONCLUSION: Coffee and its residues have high amounts of phenolic compounds, caffeine, fatty acids and other substances known to have important biological properties for the skin. Coffee and its by-products are promising ingredients to be incorporated into topical formulations, ensuring skin health benefits and reducing the environmental impact.

OBJECTIF: Le café est l'une des boissons les plus consommées dans le monde, et sa production et sa consommation génèrent chaque année de grandes quantités de sous-produits. Les sous-produits du café et les grains de café sont riches en composés bioactifs d'une grande valeur commerciale, y compris des applications potentielles en tant qu'ingrédients actifs dans les produits de soins de la peau et les formulations cosmétiques. De plus, il y a eu un intérêt croissant pour l'utilisation d'ingrédients naturels à des fins cosmétiques. Compte tenu de l'importance du café dans l'économie mondiale, de ses constituants chimiques ayant un potentiel d'application cosmétique et dermatologique, et de l'importance des brevets pour l'innovation et le développement technologique, la présente étude visait à examiner les brevets récents concernant l'utilisation du café et des sous-produits du café dans les cosmétiques. MÉTHODES: Cette revue a été réalisée à l'aide d'Espacenet. Les critères d'inclusion suivants ont été établis: les brevets qui incluaient les termes "café" et "peau" dans le titre, l'abrégé et les revendications et appartenaient à la classification A61Q, qui est liée à "l'utilisation spécifique de cosmétiques ou de préparations de toilette similaires" compte tenu de la Classification internationale des brevets ou Classification coopérative des brevets. RÉSULTATS: Considérant les 52 brevets analysés, le grain était le principal moyen d'obtenir des extraits (39), suivi du grain vert (7), du silverskin (3), de la peau et de la pulpe (1), de la pulpe (1) et des grains et des feuilles (1). Les formulations sont principalement destinées à être utilisées dans des zones non spécifiques de la peau (29), des yeux (12), des cheveux du cuir chevelu (9) et de la peau des lèvres (2) avec des revendications anti-âge, hydratantes, protection solaire, croissance des cheveux, antipelliculaire, etc. CONCLUSION: Le café et ses résidus contiennent de grandes quantités de composés phénoliques, de caféine, d'acides gras et d'autres substances connues pour avoir des propriétés biologiques importantes pour la peau. Le café et ses sous-produits sont des ingrédients prometteurs à incorporer dans des formulations topiques, garantissant des bienfaits pour la santé de la peau et réduisant l'impact environnemental.

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BACKGROUND: Of the many effects induced by UV radiation on the skin, erythema is one of the most well-known features, which is a cutaneous inflammatory reaction correlated with acute photodamage. The utilization of sunscreen may reduce this process. AIMS: To evaluate the utilization of a sunscreen SPF50 with high antioxidant capacity during 15 days by young men without photoprotection habits. METHODS: For this, we evaluated erythema, skin hydration properties, and dermis echogenicity using skin imaging techniques. Forty male participants (aged between 18 and 28 years old), 36 without previous photoprotection habits, were recruited, and the erythema was evaluated using a visual score and skin colorimeter. Macroscopic images (VivaCam®) were also obtained. Dermis echogenicity was evaluated using high-frequency ultrasonography. All the participants received a sunscreen SPF 50 to use for 15 days. RESULTS: The visual score presented a strong correlation (r = 0.8657) with the colorimeter results. Visually and using the biophysical methodologies was possible to observe the reduction of the visual erythema. The dermis echogenicity also improved, probably correlated with the acute inflammation reduction. No alterations were observed in the skin hydration and skin barrier parameters. CONCLUSIONS: The utilization of complementary and correlated different skin biophysical and imaging techniques in this study allows a better comprehension regarding the skin early photoaging process due the direct sun exposure. The utilization with a SPF 50 sunscreen with high antioxidant potential allows for a reduction in the erythema after 15 days of usage, a quick result, however, did not improved the skin barrier or SC hydration.

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The film-forming effect is an important property of formulations for skin improvement and hair protection. Reflectance confocal microscopy, an advanced imaging technique, is an important tool for its evaluation. Thus, the aim of this study was to evaluate the film-forming properties of cosmetic formulations based on starches and containing a Spirulina maxima extract after their application to skin and hair, using sensorial analysis and instrumental measurements, with emphasis on reflectance confocal microscopy. Two formulations based on starches and PEG-75 lanolin containing or not (Vehicle) a Spirulina maxima dry extract were developed. The rheological behavior and sensorial properties of both formulations were evaluated. The film-forming property on the skin was evaluated in terms of skin hydration by RCM imaging analysis and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The hair tresses were evaluated in terms of mechanical properties and RCM imaging analysis. The formulations showed pseudoplastic behavior and a low hysteresis area. In addition, the presence of Spirulina in the formulation did not interfere in the rheological parameters. Both formulations reduced TEWL and maintained the stratum corneum water content. The protective effect was also observed in the hair, since the application of the formulation with Spirulina showed a better performance in the tensile test when compared to vehicle. Thus, the proposed formulation showed film formation on the skin and hair surface that brought immediate benefits such as a reduction of TEWL. Finally, the formulations were shown to have film-forming effects and their use can be suggested for skin and hair protection against daily damage.

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OBJECTIVE: To evaluate the safety and the synergistic effects of tea tree, lavender, eucalyptus and tangerine essential oils in combination on the skin using in vitro, ex vivo and clinical studies. METHODS: The phototoxicity was predicted using 3T3 neutral red uptake phototoxicity test (OECD TG 432). Skin penetration was evaluated by confocal Raman microspectroscopy using direct application of essential oils to pig ears. For the clinical studies, 40 participants were enrolled and randomized in three groups: (1) lavender, eucalyptus and tangerine, (2) the same essential oils plus melaleuca and (3) placebo group. The skin was evaluated by noninvasive techniques before and after a 90-day period of topical use. RESULTS: The essential oils were non-phototoxic, but the tangerine oil showed dose-dependent cytotoxicity (IC50: 33.1 µg/ml), presenting 35% of penetration in the viable epidermis. On the contrary, 17.7 µg/ml in combination was applied per day in the clinical study and the penetration rate for the combinations (10%, 1.77 µg/ml achieving the viable epidermis) guaranteed the safety, since in the clinical study, the application of the four essential oils improved skin barrier and morphologic skin characteristics, as well as increased skin hydration and decreased sebum levels, with no unwanted effects reported. CONCLUSIONS: All essential oils studied were considered non-cytotoxic or non-phototoxic separately except tangerine, which present a dose-dependent cytotoxicity. Finally, the essential oils in combination in an appropriate amount were safe and effective in the improvement of the hydrolipidic balance and morphological properties of the skin.

OBJECTIF: évaluer la sécurité d'emploi et les effets synergiques des associations d'huiles essentielles d'arbre à thé, de lavande, d'eucalyptus et de mandarine sur la peau à l'aide d'études in vitro, ex vivo et cliniques. MÉTHODES: la phototoxicité a été prédite avec le test de phototoxicité de fixation du rouge neutre 3T3 (OCDE TG 432). La pénétration cutanée a été évaluée par microspectroscopie confocale de Raman grâce à l'application directe d'huiles essentielles sur les oreilles de cochons. Pour les études cliniques, 40 participants ont été inclus et randomisés dans trois groupes : (1) lavande, eucalyptus et mandarine, (2) les mêmes huiles essentielles plus melaleuca et (3) un groupe placebo. La peau a été évaluée par des techniques non invasives avant et après une période d'utilisation topique de 90 jours. RÉSULTATS: les huiles essentielles se sont avérées non phototoxiques, mais l'huile de mandarine a montré une cytotoxicité dose-dépendante (CI 50 : 33,1 µg/ml), représentant 35 % de pénétration dans l'épiderme viable. À l'inverse, dans l'étude clinique, une quantité de 17,7 µg/ml par jour en association a été appliquée, et le taux de pénétration des associations (10 %, soit 1,77 µg/ml atteignant l'épiderme viable) a garanti la sécurité d'emploi, puisque dans l'étude clinique, l'application des quatre huiles essentielles a amélioré la barrière cutanée et les caractéristiques morphologiques de la peau, et a entraîné une augmentation de l'hydratation cutanée et une diminution des taux de sébum, sans signalement d'effets indésirables. CONCLUSIONS: chacune des huiles essentielles étudiées a été considérée comme non cytotoxique ou non phototoxique, à l'exception de la mandarine, qui présente une cytotoxicité dose-dépendante. Enfin, l'association d'huiles essentielles en quantité appropriée a démontré sa sécurité d'emploi et son efficacité dans l'amélioration de l'équilibre hydrolipidique et des propriétés morphologiques de la peau.

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BACKGROUND: The prevalence of allergies increases worldwide. Allergies may increase the risk of skin reactions. OBJECTIVE: To evaluate the prevalence of allergies and skin reactions in the adult population, the strength of their relationship, and their impact on the quality of life. METHODS: An online survey was conducted in a representative population of 11,067 adults from China, USA, Brazil, Russia, and France. RESULTS: Overall, 35.6% of respondents reported having allergies, they were predominantly fair-skinned women, and younger than responders reporting no allergy. Among patients reporting allergies, 68.6% declared that their allergy makes their skin reacts. A strong association between allergy and major skin reactions was observed, which were associated with skin discomforts such as itching, burning, and pain. Skin discomforts were associated with an increased risk of quality of life alteration. CONCLUSIONS: Quantifying the prevalence and the association of allergies with skin reactions and discomfort sensations is critical to evaluating the impact on quality of life. Since skin barrier alteration is hypothesized as a risk factor and a route of sensitization for allergy development, the daily use of topical treatments, such as moisturizers, could help prevent allergic skin reactions, discomfort and impaired quality of life in individuals with an altered skin barrier.

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BACKGROUND: New technologies, such as sonic devices, have been developed to optimize the skin cleansing process and improve its efficiency. To evaluate the effectiveness of these cosmetic procedures, skin bioengineering is an objective method to assess the biophysical parameters of the skin. AIMS: This study aimed to assess the effect of facial cleansing on the physiological properties of the skin by comparing a cleansing process with cosmetic product applied manually to cleansing with cosmetic product associated with the use of an electric sonic device. PATIENTS/METHODS: A gentle skin cleanser was applied to the entire face of 12 subjects; the sonic device was used on one half of the face and the manual process was performed on the other half. Instrumental skin analyses included sebummetry, corneometry, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), infrared thermography, and high-frequency ultrasound and were measured before and up to 90 min after cleansing. Results were compared using two-way ANOVA and Friedman tests. RESULTS: Data obtained from the statistical analysis of sebummetry, TEWL, thermography, and ultrasound parameters did not show any significant difference. When assessing the corneometry parameters, a significant reduction in hydration values (17.19%) was observed in the manual cleansing area, while the values remained similar to baseline values in the area where the sonic device was used. CONCLUSION: The cleansing process with a sonic device did not cause a significant hydration reduction, suggesting better preservation of skin homeostasis when compared to manual cleansing.

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OBJECTIVE: Vitamin C and peptides are widely used in cosmetic products but there is a paucity of clinical studies showing that the formulations are effective in treating signs of facial ageing. These 3 clinical studies evaluated the effectiveness of an anti-ageing formula containing natural vitamin C (10%), biopeptides (rice and lupin), hyaluronic acid, and Vichy volcanic mineralising water, in amber glass ampoules with no preservatives (Peptide-C ampoules). METHODS: Dansyl chloride fluorescence labelling compared cell turnover for Peptide-C ampoules vs untreated skin in 32 female subjects. Study 2, an open clinical study, evaluated the efficacy on wrinkles of Peptide-C ampoules by investigator clinical scoring based on Dynamical Atlas visual assessment (N = 40) and subject self-assessment questionnaires (N = 47). Study 3, an open clinical study, evaluated wrinkles by instrumental quantification with 3D fringe projection analysis (N = 40) and subject questionnaires (N = 51). RESULTS: The mean cell turnover was faster for skin treated with Peptide-C ampoules compared to untreated skin (17.1 days vs. 19.2 days; P < 0.0001). In study 2, after 28 days application of Peptide-C ampoules, clinical grading of crow's-feet wrinkles, forehead wrinkles and nasolabial folds decreased by 9%, 11% and 5%, respectively (all P < 0.05 vs baseline). Of 47 subjects, 77%, 64% and 79% indicated their skin seemed smoothed out, fine lines were less visible, and skin complexion was more radiant, respectively. In study 3, the number of wrinkles decreased by 11.5% after 29 days application of Peptide-C ampoules vs baseline (P < 0.05) and 65% of subjects responded the fine lines were less visible. CONCLUSION: This formulation of a combination of anti-ageing ingredients in ampoules, allowing a minimalist formula, showed significant results on improving facial wrinkles and radiance.

OBJECTIF: La vitamine C et les peptides sont régulièrement utilisés dans les produits dermocosmétiques mais il existe peu d'études cliniques sur l'efficacité des formulations sur les signes du vieillissement cutané du visage. Trois études cliniques ont évalué l'efficacité d'une formule anti-âge contenant de la vitamine C naturelle (10%), des biopeptides (riz et lupin), de l'acide hyaluronique et de l'eau minéralisante volcanique de Vichy, dans un format d'ampoules en verre ambré, sans conservateur (ampoules Peptide-C). MÉTHODES: Une première étude a comparé par la technique de chlorure de Dansyl le renouvellement cellulaire avec la formulation ampoules Peptide-C et la peau non traitée chez 32 sujets féminins. La seconde étude, en ouvert, a évalué l'efficacité clinique sur les rides des ampoules Peptide-C en se reposant sur les Atlas Dynamiques (N=40) et les questionnaires d'auto-évaluation des sujets (N=47). La troisième étude, ouverte, a évalué les rides par quantification instrumentale avec l'analyse de projection de franges 3D (N=40) et les questionnaires d'autoévaluation des sujets (N=51). RÉSULTATS: Le renouvellement cellulaire était plus rapide pour la peau traitée avec des ampoules de Peptide-C comparées à la peau non traitée (17.1 jours contre 19.2 jours ; p<.0001). Dans l'étude 2, après 28 jours d'application des ampoules Peptide-C, l'évaluation clinique des rides de la patte d'oie, du front et des plis naso-labiaux a montré une amélioration de 9 %, 11 % et 5 %, respectivement (tous p<0,05 vs baseline). Sur 47 sujets, 77%, 64% et 79% ont indiqué que leur peau semblait respectivement lissée, que les ridules étaient moins visibles et que le teint de la peau était plus radieux. Dans l'étude 3, le nombre de rides a diminué de 11,5 % après 29 jours d'application des ampoules Peptide-C par rapport à la baseline (p<0,05) et 65 % des sujets ont répondu que les ridules étaient moins visibles. CONCLUSION: Cette combinaison d'ingrédients anti-âge dans un format d'ampoules, et une formulation minimaliste, a montré des résultats significatifs sur l'amélioration des rides faciales et de l'éclat du teint.

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The skin is the largest organ in the human body. Among other components, it contains epidermal cells, which are modified epithelial cells that rest on a basal membrane that separates them from the dermis. When the epidermis presents variations in its structural composition and the distribution of its elements, the result is the loss of large amounts of water, which perpetuates these variations and leads to permanent dehydration. Emollients are the first line of treatment for pathologies that affect the hydration of the skin, such as atopic dermatitis, which is one of the most important ones. This document entails the description of the epidermal barrier with its main components and functions, the characteristics of an altered skin barrier, and the mechanisms for its repair. Subsequently, this paper includes the definition of emollient, hydration mechanisms for the recovery of the barrier, types of emollients, the situations that must be taken into account when the use of emollients is prescribed, evidence with or without connection with their advantages, and the key points at the time of its formulation.

La piel es el órgano más extenso del cuerpo humano; entre otros componentes comprende las células epidérmicas, la cuales son células epiteliales modificadas que descansan sobre una membrana basal separadas de la dermis. Al presentar modificaciones en su composición estructural y la distribución de sus elementos, la epidermis pierde grandes cantidades de agua, lo que perpetúa estas variaciones y llevan a deshidratación permanente. Los emolientes constituyen la primera línea de manejo para las patologías que afectan la hidratación de la piel, entre ellas una de las más importantes es la dermatitis atópica. En este documento se describe la barrera epidérmica con sus principales componentes y funciones, las características de una barrera cutánea alterada y los mecanismos para su reparación. Posteriormente se continúa con la definición de emoliente, mecanismos de hidratación para la recuperación de la barrera, tipos de emolientes, situaciones que deben considerarse al indicar su uso, la evidencia en relación con sus ventajas o no y los puntos clave al realizar su formulación.

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OBJECTIVE: A randomized study was designed to evaluate the potential cosmetic benefit of a biomimetic, niacinamide-containing moisturizing cream in oily, blemish-prone skin. METHODS: Healthy adult women with oily, blemish-prone skin were randomized to one of three treatment groups: test, control, or positive control. In the test group, subjects used the test product (containing 4% niacinamide), plus the standard cleanser (Simple® Kind to Skin Moisturizing Facial Wash). In the control group, subjects received no moisturizer but used the standard cleanser. In the positive control group, subjects used Vivatinell Acnecinamide® Gel Cream (containing 4% niacinamide) as a moisturizer and Neutrogena Visibly Clear® Spot Clearing Facial Wash (containing 2% salicylic acid) as a cleanser. The positive control regimen was included to provide a comparison for estimates of effect size. The primary objective was to evaluate skin moisturization as a change from baseline in corneometer values at 8 h for the test regimen vs. the control regimen. Analysis of covariance was applied for the primary efficacy analysis. RESULTS: A total of 132 subjects were randomized with 44 included in each treatment group. A significant difference was observed in the primary endpoint for the test regimen compared with the control regimen (least-squares mean difference [95% CI]: 3.12 [0.68, 5.56], P = 0.0128). A trend was observed in favour of the positive control regimen compared with the control regimen. Secondary measurements of moisturization supported the primary efficacy outcome. Assessment of blemishes showed a significant difference between the test regimen vs. the control regimen for change from baseline in mean total blemish count at Week 8 (least-squares mean difference [95% CI]: -1.80 [-3.41, -0.19], P = 0.0290). No statistical comparisons between the positive control group and the test group were performed. CONCLUSION: This study provides proof-of-concept evidence that a novel lamellar lipid moisturizer containing niacinamide, in combination with a standard cleanser, can help moisturize the skin and provide an overall improvement in the complexion appearance of people with blemish-prone skin. STUDY REGISTRATION: NCT03093181.

OBJECTIF: Une étude randomisée a été conçue pour évaluer le bénéfice cosmétique potentiel d'une crème hydratante biomimétique contenant du niacinamide sur une peau grasse sujette aux imperfections. MÉTHODES: Des femmes adultes en bonne santé, à peau grasse sujette aux imperfections, ont été randomisées dans l'un des trois groupes de traitement : test, témoin ou témoin positif. Dans le groupe test, les sujets ont utilisé le produit testé (contenant 4 % de niacinamide), plus le nettoyant standard (Nettoyant visage Simple® doux pour la peau). Dans le groupe témoin, les sujets n'ont reçu aucune crème hydratante mais ont utilisé le nettoyant standard. Dans le groupe témoin positif, les sujets ont utilisé le gel crème Vivatinell Acnecinamide® (contenant 4 % de niacinamide) comme crème hydratante et le nettoyant visage pour réduire les imperfections Neutrogena Visibly Clear® (contenant 2 % d'acide salicylique) comme nettoyant. Le schéma de traitement du groupe témoin positif était inclus pour fournir une comparaison des estimations de la taille de l'effet. L'objectif principal était d'évaluer l'hydratation de la peau par le changement par rapport à la référence des valeurs du cornéomètre à 8 h pour le schéma de traitement testé par rapport au schéma de traitement témoin. Une analyse de covariance a été appliquée pour l'analyse de l'efficacité primaire. RÉSULTATS: Un total de 132 sujets ont été randomisés, dont 44 inclus dans chaque groupe de traitement. Une différence significative a été observée dans le critère d'évaluation principal en faveur du schéma de traitement testé par rapport au schéma de traitement témoin (différence moyenne des moindres carrés [IC à 95 %] : 3,12 [0,68, 5,56], P = 0,0128). Une tendance a été observée en faveur du schéma de traitement témoin positif par rapport au schéma de traitement témoin. Les mesures secondaires de l'hydratation ont appuyé le résultat principal d'efficacité. L'évaluation des imperfections a montré une différence significative entre le schéma de traitement testé par rapport au schéma de traitement témoin en ce qui concerne le changement par rapport à la référence dans le nombre moyen total d'imperfections à la semaine 8 (différence moyenne des moindres carrés [IC à 95 %] : _1,80 [_3,41, _0,19], P = 0,0290). Aucune comparaison statistique entre le groupe témoin positif et le groupe test n'a été réalisée. CONCLUSION: Cette étude fournit des éléments de preuve de concept qu'une nouvelle crème hydratante lipidique lamellaire à base de niacinamide, en association avec un nettoyant standard, peut permettre d'hydrater la peau et fournir une amélioration globale de l'aspect du teint chez des personnes dont la peau est sujette aux imperfections. Numéro d'enregistrement de l'étude : NCT03093181.

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