RESUMO
Myracrodruon urundeuva, popularly known as 'aroeira-do-sertão', a large tree, with a tall trunk. Belonging to the Anacardiaceae family, it occurs in the 'caatinga' and dry forests of Brazil, from Ceará to the states of Paraná and Mato Grosso do Sul. The present study aimed to analyse the whitening and antioxidant activities of the aqueous extract of the leaves of Myracrodruon urundeuva (AELMU). Inhibition of the tyrosinase enzyme, as well as its copper chelating capacity and antioxidant effect were evaluated. The AELMU (at 2000 µg/mL) showed excellent inhibitory action (83.76%) on tyrosinase by chelating the copper ion while kojic acid at the same concentration inhibited 97.81%. Moreover, the extract displayed important antioxidant activity (inhibited 76,46% of the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl radical - DPPH; 49,59% of thiobarbituric acid reactive substances and 51,07% of the hydroxyl radical). Thus, the extract under study is promising for use in cosmetics, given its multifactorial action.
RESUMO
Abstract Because it promotes the lightening of pigment spots, tyrosinase inhibition is one of the mechanisms of depigmenting cosmetic products. Considering the adverse effects produced by synthetic depigmenting actives, the search for new therapeutic options is desirable, and plant extracts are possible candidates for hyperpigmentation treatment. Glycolic extracts of Cecropia pachystachya Trécul are, therefore, the focus of this study. Its chemical characterization, antioxidant activity, tyrosinase inhibition, and cell viability were evaluated. Glycolic extracts were obtained by macerating the leaves of C. pachystachya in grain alcohol and glycerin or propylene glycol. Both had a similar chemical constitution, the glycerin being more efficient in concentrating phenolic compounds and flavonoids. Analyses by UHPLC-MS detected quinic acid, chlorogenic acid isomers, proanthocyanidin dimers type B and C, catechin/epicatechin, orientin/isoorientin, isoorientin 2"-O-xyloside, vitexin/isovitexin, and rutin. 5-O-caffeoylquinic acid was then quantified was then quantified, with predominance in the extract produced with propylene glycol. These extracts showed a high antioxidant capacity by the method of DPPH, ß-carotene, and nitric oxide. As for depigmenting activity, both extracts were able to inhibit tyrosinase. Cell viability assay also revealed that the extracts could safely be used in concentrations of ≤ 125 µg/mL. Thus, this study demonstrated for the first time that the glycolic extracts of C. pachystachya have promising chemical and biological characteristics for the development of a multifunctional cosmetic with antioxidant and tyrosinase-inhibition activities
Assuntos
Cosméticos/classificação , Cecropia/efeitos adversos , Clareadores/classificação , Creme para a Pele/análise , Extratos Vegetais/efeitos adversos , Antioxidantes/farmacologiaRESUMO
Among photosynthetic microorganisms, Cyanobacteria and Microalgae species have been highly studied thank to their high value-added compounds for several industrial applications. Thus, their production is increasing in the last decade to produce raw material for cosmetics. In fact, the daily routine includes the use of cosmetics and sunscreens to protect against the environmental changes, mainly the increment of ultraviolet (UV) radiation rate with a consequent skin damage and premature aging due to this overexposure. As it is well discussed, chemical UV filters are extensively incorporated into sunscreens formulas; however, they can induce allergenic reactions as well. For these reasons, some pigments derived from microalgae, such as astaxanthin, lutein, ß-carotene as well as other biocompounds are now well described in the literature as well as biotechnologically manufactured as natural ingredients to be incorporated into skin care products with multifunctional benefits even for sunscreen purposes. Hence, this investigation summarizes the recent studies about the main pigments from photosynthetic microorganisms' biomasses as well as their uses in dermocosmetics with novel attributes, such as anti-aging agents, makeups, skin lightening and whitening, among others.
Assuntos
Microalgas , Fatores Biológicos , Pele , Protetores Solares , Raios UltravioletaRESUMO
Resumo Por meio de um exercício de walking ethnography, pretendemos apresentar uma etnografia da oferta cosmética destinada à despigmentação da pele no coração de Lisboa, focando num fragmento da cidade que junta diferentes propostas e produtos estéticos: spas chineses, salões de beleza e cabeleireiros africanos, lojas do comércio dito "étnico" ligado a imigrantes e portugueses descendentes de populações asiáticas ou africanas. Definimos esse passeio como "caminho do branqueamento" - parafraseando ironicamente o título de um dos mais famosos livros de Michael Jackson, Paths towards a clearing (1989). Considerando o corpo como um projeto em construção, pretendemos mostrar que os imaginários e os desejos ligados ao consumo desses tratamentos, assim como os padrões de beleza veiculados pelo marketing dos produtos de clareamento da pele, refletem e reproduzem variáveis sociais de género, classe e raça. Queremos também evidenciar como a maior parte dos produtos branqueadores, vendidos no centro da cidade, são proibidos pela legislação europeia de regulamentação de cosméticos, devido às altas concentrações de substâncias tóxicas. Essas substâncias, que circulam livremente nas redes do comercio informal, podem ser muito prejudiciais para a saúde dos consumidores, comportando severos riscos dermatológicos.
Abstract Through a walking ethnography exercise, we intend to present an ethnography of the cosmetic offer aimed at depigmenting the skin in the heart of Lisbon, focusing on a fragment of the city that brings together different proposals and aesthetic products: Chinese spas, beauty salons and African hairdressers, shops of the so-called "ethnic" trade linked to immigrants and Portuguese descendants of Asian or African populations. We defined this tour as a "whitening path" - ironically paraphrasing the title of one of Michael Jackson's most famous books, Paths towards a clearing (1989). Considering the body as a project under construction, we intend to show that the imaginary and desires related to the consumption of these treatments, as well as the beauty standards conveyed by the marketing of skin whitening products, reflect and reproduce social variables of gender, class and race. We also want to highlight how most whitening products, sold in the city center, are prohibited by European cosmetics regulation legislation due to the high concentrations of toxic substances. These substances - which circulate freely in the networks of informal commerce - can be very harmful to the consumers' health, carrying severe dermatological risks.
Assuntos
Humanos , Masculino , Feminino , Beleza , Pigmentação da Pele , Cosméticos/normas , Estética , Indústria Cosmética , Antropologia Cultural , Dermatologia/legislação & jurisprudência , Dermatologia/éticaRESUMO
In the context of developing a new natural product-based cosmetic, the in vitro efficacy and safety evaluations of a complex botanical mixture based on Eugenia dysenterica leaf hydroalcoholic extract (EDE) (2.5-1000µg/mL) were carried out. Chromatographic analysis demonstrated the presence of the tannin (ellagic acid) and flavonoids (quercetin and gallic acid) which characterize the EDE as a polyphenol-rich mixture. Using HFF-1 fibroblasts, it was shown that EDE promoted cell regeneration after UVA exposure. It also led to the inhibition of the collagenase, elastase and tyrosinase enzymes, which are involved in skin-related disorders. In terms of toxicological evaluation, the EDE was classified as non-phototoxic through the 3T3 Neutral Red Uptake Phototoxicity Test (OECD N° 432, 2004) and non-eye irritant by Bovine Corneal Opacity and Permeability (OECD N° 437, 2013) assay, in conjunction with corneal histomorphometric analysis. Furthermore, the EDE has no skin sensitization potential as demonstrated by a two-out-of-three prediction model [protein-binding/haptenization (OECD N° 442C, 2015), keratinocyte and dendritic cell activations]. In addition, it was shown that the EDE seems to be non-genotoxic through the cytokinesis-block micronucleus assay (OECD N° 487, 2014) using HepG2 cells. When considered together, these findings support the use of EDE botanical mixture in cosmetic/pharmaceutical products.