RESUMO
Sodium lauryl sulfate is the main cleaning ingredient in shampoos, even though it may be potentially damaging to hair. The demand for antioxidant-rich cosmetics, on the other hand, has encouraged green cosmetics research. Brazil has vast biodiversity that can be exploited for the production of these cosmetics. This work aimed to develop a minimalist antioxidant lauryl-free shampoo formulation with leaf extracts from the Brazilian plant Hancornia speciosa Gomes. Two hydroethanolic extracts were prepared using different extraction methods, Soxhlet, and ultrasound. The extracts were characterized by the presence of saponins, polyphenol quantification, and HLPC chemical identification of the compounds. Antioxidant activity was determined using the DPPH method. The antioxidant lauryl-free shampoo was developed using hydroxyethyl cellulose with two concentrations of leaf extract obtained by Soxhlet, 0.125 mg/g (XP1) and 0.250 mg/g (XP2). Along with the antioxidant activity, the physical and chemical properties, cleaning potential, and foam quality were evaluated. The Soxhlet leaf extract revealed a more favorable chemical profile, including a positive result for saponins, as well as a larger quantity of polyphenols and increased antioxidant activity. The XP2 formulation showed better foam height, dirt dispersion, and antioxidant activity. Thus, the use of mangabeira leaf extract appears to be promising for the development of shampoos with antioxidant activity.
Assuntos
Antioxidantes , Saponinas , Antioxidantes/farmacologia , Antioxidantes/química , Extratos Vegetais/farmacologia , Extratos Vegetais/química , Polifenóis , Brasil , Dodecilsulfato de Sódio , Celulose , Folhas de PlantaRESUMO
Sodium lauryl sulfate is the main cleaning ingredient in shampoos, even though it may be potentially damaging to hair. The demand for antioxidant-rich cosmetics, on the other hand, has encouraged green cosmetics research. Brazil has vast biodiversity that can be exploited for the production of these cosmetics. This work aimed to develop a minimalist antioxidant lauryl-free shampoo formulation with leaf extracts from the Brazilian plant Hancornia speciosa Gomes. Two hydroethanolic extracts were prepared using different extraction methods, Soxhlet, and ultrasound. The extracts were characterized by the presence of saponins, polyphenol quantification, and HLPC chemical identification of the compounds. Antioxidant activity was determined using the DPPH method. The antioxidant lauryl-free shampoo was developed using hydroxyethyl cellulose with two concentrations of leaf extract obtained by Soxhlet, 0.125 mg/g (XP1) and 0.250 mg/g (XP2). Along with the antioxidant activity, the physical and chemical properties, cleaning potential, and foam quality were evaluated. The Soxhlet leaf extract revealed a more favorable chemical profile, including a positive result for saponins, as well as a larger quantity of polyphenols and increased antioxidant activity. The XP2 formulation showed better foam height, dirt dispersion, and antioxidant activity. Thus, the use of mangabeira leaf extract appears to be promising for the development of shampoos with antioxidant activity.
O lauril sulfato de sódio é o principal ingrediente de limpeza em xampus, embora possa ser potencialmente prejudicial ao cabelo. A demanda por cosméticos ricos em antioxidantes, por outro lado, tem incentivado as pesquisas com cosméticos verdes. O Brasil possui uma vasta biodiversidade que pode ser explorada para a produção desses cosméticos. O objetivo deste trabalho foi desenvolver uma formulação de xampu antioxidante minimalista sem lauril com extratos de folhas da planta brasileira Hancornia speciosa Gomes. Dois extratos hidroetanólicos foram preparados usando diferentes métodos de extração, Soxhlet e ultrassom. Os extratos foram caracterizados quanto à presença de saponinas, quantificação de polifenóis e identificação química HLPC dos compostos. A atividade antioxidante foi determinada pelo método DPPH. O xampu antioxidante sem lauril foi desenvolvido utilizando hidroxietil celulose com duas concentrações de extrato de folha obtido por Soxhlet, 0.125 mg/g (XP1) e 0.250 mg/g (XP2). Juntamente com a atividade antioxidante, foram avaliadas as propriedades físicas e químicas, potencial de limpeza e qualidade da espuma. O extrato da folha de Soxhlet revelou um perfil químico mais favorável, incluindo resultado positivo para saponinas, além de maior quantidade de polifenóis e aumento da atividade antioxidante. A formulação XP2 apresentou melhor altura de espuma, dispersão de sujeira e atividade antioxidante. Assim, o uso do extrato da folha de mangabeira parece ser promissor para o desenvolvimento de xampus com atividade antioxidante.