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The stratum corneum (SC), the outermost epidermal layer, plays a pivotal role in skin barrier function. This review delves into the intricate process of protein degradation within the stratum corneum, elucidating the roles of specific enzymes, regulatory mechanisms and the consequent impact on various skin conditions. Protein degradation is a finely tuned process, orchestrated by a suite of proteolytic enzymes like kallikreins. These enzymes are responsible for the breakdown of corneodesmosomes and the orderly desquamation of corneocytes, a process essential for skin homeostasis. Another critical enzymatic process is the breakdown of proteins like filaggrin and the generation of amino acids and their derivatives, required in the physiological water-handling properties of the SC. Regulation of these proteolytic activities is complex, involving a balance between endogenous inhibitors and other factors like pH, hydration and environmental stressors. Dysregulation of protease activity is linked to a spectrum of skin conditions, ranging from xerosis to inflammatory diseases like atopic dermatitis and psoriasis. Aberrant protein degradation can lead to compromised skin barrier function, increased tissue water loss and heightened susceptibility to infections and allergens. Understanding the factors affecting protein degradation can inform the development of targeted skincare products. Advances in biochemistry and dermatology have paved the way for the search for active ingredients designed to modulate protease activity. Such innovations may offer promising therapeutic avenues for enhancing skin barrier function and treating skin disorders. This review underscores the significance of enzymatic protein degradation in the SC and its regulatory mechanisms. It provides insights into the pathophysiology of skin diseases and outlines the potential for novel skincare interventions. By bridging the gap between fundamental research and practical applications, this article aims to inspire further investigation for better understanding of skin physiology and innovation in the realm of skincare product development.

La couche cornée (stratum corneum, SC), la couche épidermique la plus externe, joue un rôle essentiel dans la fonction de barrière cutanée. Cette revue se penche sur le processus complexe de dégradation des protéines au sein de la couche cornée, ce qui explique les rôles des enzymes spécifiques, les mécanismes de régulation et l'impact qui en résulte sur diverses affections cutanées. La dégradation des protéines est un processus subtil, orchestré par une série d'enzymes protéolytiques telles que les kallikréines. Ces enzymes sont responsables de la décomposition des cornéodesmosomes et de la desquamation ordonnée des cornéocytes, un processus essentiel à l'homéostasie de la peau. Un autre processus enzymatique essentiel est la dégradation des protéines telles que la filaggrine et la génération d'acides aminés et de leurs dérivés, nécessaires aux propriétés physiologiques de traitement de l'eau de la SC. La régulation de ces activités protéolytiques est complexe, impliquant un équilibre entre les inhibiteurs endogènes et d'autres facteurs tels que le pH, l'hydratation et les facteurs de stress environnementaux. Le dérèglement de l'activité de la protéase est lié à un spectre d'affections cutanées, allant de la xérose à des maladies inflammatoires telles que la dermatite atopique et le psoriasis. Une dégradation aberrante des protéines peut compromettre la fonction de barrière cutanée, augmenter la perte d'eau tissulaire et augmenter la sensibilité aux infections et aux allergènes. Comprendre les facteurs affectant la dégradation des protéines peut contribuer au développement de produits de soins de la peau ciblés. Les progrès en biochimie et en dermatologie ont ouvert la voie à la recherche de principes actifs conçus pour moduler l'activité de la protéase. Ces innovations peuvent offrir des pistes thérapeutiques prometteuses pour améliorer la fonction de la barrière cutanée et traiter les troubles cutanés. Cette revue souligne l'importance de la dégradation enzymatique des protéines dans la SC et ses mécanismes de régulation. Elle fournit des informations sur la physiopathologie des maladies cutanées et souligne le potentiel de nouvelles interventions pour soins de la peau. En comblant le fossé entre la recherche fondamentale et les applications pratiques, cet article vise à inspirer des recherches supplémentaires pour mieux comprendre la physiologie de la peau et l'innovation dans le domaine du développement de produits de soins de la peau.

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Healthy skin reflects a healthy microbiome and vice versa. The contemporary society, marked by a sharp increase in skin irritation cases, has compelled researchers, dermatologists, and the cosmetics industry to investigate the correlation between skin microbiomes and the use of skincare products. Different cosmetics can change skin's normal flora to a varying degree -some changes can be detrimental, there are also instances where these alterations aid in restoring the skin microbiome. Previous studies using artificial skin models, metagenomic analysis, and culture-based approaches have suggested that skincare products play an important role in skin microbial alteration. This article assessed current knowledge on microbial shifts from daily use of various personal and skincare products. We have also introduced a readily applicable framework, synthesized from various observations, which can be employed to identify the normal skin microbiome and evaluate the impact of personal care and skincare products on it. We also discussed how lifestyle choice remake skin microbial makeup. Future studies are warranted to examine the effect of personal and skincare product usage on skin microbiome across various age groups, genders, and body sites with a multi-study approach.

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Antioxidants play a pivotal role in maintaining skin health and integrity, combating the deleterious effects of oxidative stress induced by environmental aggressors such as UV ra-diation, pollution, and lifestyle factors. This paper reviews the contributions of key antioxidants, including Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Vitamin A, green tea extract, Coenzyme Q10, Resveratrol, Selenium, and Polyphenols, in skin health care. Vitamin C, known for its collagen synthesis promotion and photoprotection properties, alongside Vitamin E, a lipid-soluble antioxidant, syn-ergistically works to neutralize free radicals and repair damaged skin cells. Vitamin A, in the form of retinol, plays a critical role in skin cell regeneration and the maintenance of skin integ-rity. Green tea extract, rich in Polyphenols, offers anti-inflammatory and anticarcinogenic prop-erties, making it a potent ingredient for skin protection. Coenzyme Q10, a naturally occurring antioxidant in the body, aids in energy production for cell repair and regeneration, while Resveratrol, found in grapes and berries, provides anti-ageing benefits by enhancing skin's re-sistance to oxidative stress. Selenium, an essential mineral, contributes to the protection of skin cells from oxidative damage. The incorporation of these antioxidants in skincare products and dietary sources is discussed, highlighting the importance of a holistic approach in skincare re-gimes. The paper emphasizes the synergy between topical applications and dietary intake of antioxidants, advocating for a comprehensive strategy for promoting skin health and preventing age-related skin alterations. Method: For the review article, a variety of search engines and databases were used to identify relevant articles. Furthermore, for biomedical literature focusing on antioxidants and their ef-fects on skin health, PubMed was used. Moreover, to access a wide range of scholarly articles, including those related to dermatology and skincare, Google Scholar was used. Scopus provides comprehensive coverage of peer-reviewed literature across various scientific disciplines. Web of Science identifies high-impact articles and research on antioxidants in skincare. In addition, for accessing full-text articles on antioxidants and their applications in dermatology, Science Direct was used. The inclusion criteria for the review paper were as follows: only studies pub-lished in peer-reviewed journals were included to ensure the credibility and reliability of the information. Articles published in English were considered, to avoid language-related biases and ensure comprehension. Studies published within the last 10 years were included to provide the most current insights into antioxidant research in skincare. Articles must specifically focus on the role of antioxidants (Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Vitamin A, green tea extract, Coenzyme Q10, Resveratrol, Selenium, Polyphenols) in skin health care. Both experimental studies (in vivo and in vitro) and clinical trials were included to provide a comprehensive overview of the antioxidant effects. Full-text articles were included to allow for thorough data extraction and analysis. The exclusion criteria for the review paper were as follows: Publications that were not peer-re-viewed, such as editorials, opinion pieces, and non-scholarly articles, were excluded. Articles published in languages other than English were excluded due to potential translation challenges and to maintain consistency. Studies that did not focus on the specified antioxidants or their impact on skin health were excluded. Duplicate publications were excluded to avoid redundancy in the review. Articles with insufficient or incomplete data were excluded to ensure the quality and reliability of the review findings.

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Skin radiance is crucial for enhancing facial attractiveness and is negatively affected by factors like hyperpigmentation and aging-related changes. Current treatments often lack comprehensive solutions for improving skin radiance. This study aimed to develop a cosmetic formula that enhances skin radiance by reducing hyperpigmentation and improving skin regeneration by targeting specific receptors-the endothelin receptor type B (EDNRB) for hyperpigmentation and the adiponectin receptor 1 (ADIPOR1) for sagging and wrinkles. To achieve this, we used artificial intelligence technologies to screen and select ingredients with an affinity for EDNRB and ADIPOR1. Vitamin B12 (VitB12) was identified as a molecule that targets EDNRB, which is involved in melanogenesis. Adenosine triphosphate (ATP) targets ADIPOR1, which is associated with skin regeneration. VitB12 successfully inhibited intracellular calcium elevation and melanogenesis induced by endothelin-1. In contrast, ATP increased the mRNA expression of collagen and elastin and promoted wound healing. Moreover, the VitB12 and ATP complex significantly increased the expression of hyaluronan synthases, which are crucial for skin hydration. Furthermore, in human participants, the application of the VitB12 and ATP complex to one-half of the face significantly improved skin radiance, elasticity, and texture. Our findings provide valuable insights for the development of skincare formulations.

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In this work, 45 cosmetic samples were collected from China, and 27 target per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) were analyzed by ultrahigh-performance liquid chromatography-high resolution mass spectrometry. PFAS were found in all samples, including the products marketed for pregnant women, and the total concentrations of PFAS measured in each sample were in the range of 4.05 - 94.9 ng/g. Short-chain perfluorinated carboxylic acids were the dominant compounds contributing to over 60% of the total content. Perfluorobutanoic acid, with high placental transfer efficiency, was the major PFAS in cosmetics for pregnant women. Three emerging PFAS, 2-perfluorohexyl ethanoic acid, 3-perfluoropentyl propanoic acid (5:3) and perfluoro-2-propoxypropanoic acid, were also identified in the cosmetic samples at quantifiable levels. Significantly, positive correlations between individual PFAS were observed, indicating that there may be a common source for PFAS in these samples. Statistical analyses suggested that using plastic containers and precursor substances may be potential sources of PFAS in terminal products, and product aging may increase PFAS levels. From the PFAS analysis of the cosmetics, the margin of safety (MoS) and hazard quotient (HQ) were calculated to assess human health risks through dermal exposure by using these products. Although the MoS and HQ values obtained were deemed acceptable, the cumulative effect caused by composite and long-term exposure to these contaminants needs to be given greater attention by health authorities.

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This work addresses the potential of the red seaweed Gelidium corneum as a source of bioactive ingredients for skin health and wellness in response to the growing awareness regarding the significance of sustainable strategies in developing new nature-based dermocosmetic products. Hydroalcoholic extracts from the dried biomass were subjected to sequential liquid-liquid partitions, affording five different fractions (F1-F5). Their cosmetic potential was assessed through a set of in vitro assays concerning their antioxidant, photoprotective, and healing properties. Additionally, their cytotoxicity in HaCaT cells and their capacity to induce inflammation in RAW 264.7 cells were also evaluated. As a proof-of-concept, O/W emulsions were prepared, and emulsion stability was assessed by optical microscopy, droplet size analysis, centrifugation tests, and rheology analysis. Furthermore, in vivo tests were conducted with the final formulation to assess its antioxidant capacity. At subtoxic concentrations, the most lipophilic fraction has provided photoprotection against UV light-induced photooxidation in HaCaT cells. This was conducted together with the aqueous fraction, which also displayed healing capacities. Regarding the physical and stability assays, the best performance was achieved with the formulation containing 1% aqueous extract, which exhibited water retention and antioxidant properties in the in vivo assay. In summary, Gelidium corneum displayed itself as a potential source of bioactive ingredients with multitarget properties for dermatological use.

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Due to the major shift in online purchasing during the COVID-19 lockdown, celebrity endorsement marketing has gained traction. Concurrently, COVID-19 has also transformed consumers' attitudes toward using eco-friendly products, such as green skincare products, to ensure a healthier lifestyle. This study developed a comprehensive framework based on the stimuli-organism-response theory and the parasocial interaction theory to empirically evaluate the impact of celebrities' credibility attributes and consumers' interests in celebrities on their attitudes towards advertisements for endorsed green skincare products, their intentions to make a purchase, and their willingness to pay a premium price for these products. 778 Malaysian consumers participated in the online survey, and their responses were analyzed using partial least squares structural equation modelling (PLS-SEM). The results showed the positive effects of credibility traits (trustworthiness - ß = 0.100, p-value = 0.026; exquisite personality - ß = 0.075, p-value = 0.028; dignified image - ß = 0.152, p-value = 0.001; expertise - ß = 0.221, p-value <0.001), and customer attention to celebrities (ß = 0.184, p-value <0.001) on their attitudes toward endorsed advertisements. Likewise, credibility features (exquisite personality - ß = 0.116, p-value = 0.002; dignified image - ß = 0.112, p-value = 0.017; expertise - ß = 0.207, p-value <0.001) and customers' companionship with celebrities (ß = 0.142, p-value = 0.001) also have a significant positive impact on attitudes towards brands. Finally, consumers' purchasing intentions and willingness to pay premium prices for green skincare products were strongly influenced by their attitude toward advertising (ß = 0.484, p-value <0.001) and brands (ß = 0.326, p-value <0.001). Evidently, the findings of this study may help players in the cosmetics industry enhance their marketing and promotion tactics for eco-friendly beauty and personal care products.

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Grape seeds are agro-industrial by-products, which if improperly managed, may be responsible for socioeconomic and environmental problems. Nevertheless, it is possible to effectively valorize them by means of extraction of the bioactive compounds, especially the antioxidant phenolic molecules, using a safe, green, and environmentally-friendly extractive medium (i.e., hydro-glyceric solution). In the present study, the extraction was performed using seeds from two Lebanese varieties, Obeidi and Asswad Karech, and three international varieties, Marselan, Syrah, and Cabernet Franc. The type and amount of phenolic compounds were identified by High-Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC). Marselan was the extract richer in catechins (132.99 ± 9.81 µg/g of dried matter), and it also contained a higher amount of phenolic compounds (49.08 ± 0.03 mg of gallic acid equivalent/g of dry matter and 10.02 ± 0.24 mg of proanthocyanidin content/g of dry matter). The antioxidant capacity of the extracts was assessed using three different colorimetric assays including 2,2-DiPhenyl-1-PicrylHydrazyl (DPPH), CUPRIC ion Reducing Antioxidant Capacity (CUPRAC), and Ferric Reducing Antioxidant Power (FRAP). As expected, Marselan exhibited the highest antioxidant activity; as well, the total phenolic and proanthocyanidin content were the highest. The stability of the Marselan extract incorporated into a commercial cream, was performed at three different temperatures (4, 25, and 50 °C), and four different concentrations (5, 4, 3, 2%), over a period of 4 months, using different methods such as centrifugation, Heat-Shock Cycles, pH, and viscosity. All Marselan hydro-glyceric extract formulations were proven to be stable over the entire 4 months, where the highest stability was achieved at 4 °C and the least at 50 °C. This study supports the suitability of the incorporation of phenolic extracts into commercial creams to enrich the cosmetic industry with effective, natural, and safe skincare products.

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This paper aims to highlight the pharmacological aspects of listed herbal skincare products used for the treatment of various disorders caused due to ultraviolet radiation. The pharmacological aspects include safety and efficacy validation as per regulatory guidelines following internationally accepted scientific principles for their development of skincare products. Herbal products have always been used traditionally for the treatment of various skin ailments and have become more prevalent because of their safety and high efficacy benefits. The incorporation of synthetic molecules and chemical substances in the different medicinal and pharmaceutical formulations is the leading cause of the dermal toxicity. Therefore, the developments of herbal skincare products containing scientifically validated herbal ingredients have better acceptance, respect, and belief in the society. The listed herbal products in this review can help take forward the commercial development of skincare products for therapeutic as well as beauty care purposes from such plants.

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BACKGROUND: Acne vulgaris is a chronic, inflammatory skin condition of pilosebaceous units. The standard treatment involves topical and oral antibiotics, retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, and other synthetic compounds, mostly associated with adverse effects. Hence, herbal skincare products are considered nowadays. AIM: To evaluate the safety and efficacy of Purifying Neem Face Wash (PNFW), an herbal skincare product in the prevention and/or reduction of mild-to-moderate acne. METHODS: An open-label, single-center, single-arm, four-week clinical study was conducted with subjects having either mild-to-moderate acne or oily skin and non-existent acne. The performance of PNFW in the reduction and/or prevention of acne was detected by counting cutaneous inflammatory and non-inflammatory acne lesions in each of the four visits. Sebum level and skin hydration of both cheeks were measured via sebumeter and corneometer, respectively. Self-assessment questionnaires were used to assess the subjects' responses toward PNFW. RESULTS: Out of 120 study subjects, 79% and 72% showed either reduction or no new appearance of inflammatory and non-inflammatory acne lesions, respectively, from baseline to Visits 3 and 4. Skin sebum level and skin hydration showed a statistically significant decrease (p < 0.001) and increase (p < 0.001), respectively, in Visits 3 and 4. Self-assessment surveys showed the satisfaction of the subjects about the product in terms of condition improvement, ease in use, and fragrance. CONCLUSION: The present study indicated the beneficial effect of the herbal ingredients (neem and turmeric) of Himalaya's PNFW in the prevention and reduction of mild-to-moderate acne with no side effects.

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Naturally occurring peptides found in the human skin can serve particular biological activities and play roles as signaling molecules of various physiological processes such as homeostasis, growth, defense or immunity. Their great biological activity resulted in a growing interest in the pharmaceutical industry. Researchers consider peptides either promising compounds with potential application for human diagnosis, therapy or cosmetics. Peptides are becoming interesting cosmetic ingredients with the functions to reduce premature skin aging, improve the barrier function of skin, moisturize the skin, protect it from UV damage, and anti-inflammatory properties that alleviate acne and irritation. Till now, peptides of different origins were investigated in formulation developed to enhance collagen or elastin production, increase fibroblast proliferation, improve wound healing or skin condition. Most of them are obtained by chemical synthesis or by partial digestion of animal proteins. Short and easily synthesized peptides with alternative amino acid sequence, and combinations have created a new field of molecules inspired by nature and implemented in the cosmetic industry. Nowadays, peptides are cheaper and easier to produce in large quantities. The efficient process development methods allow obtaining nearly unlimited sequences, which makes them functionally preferred. Generally, cosmetic peptides are categorized as carrier peptides, neurotransmitter- affecting peptides, enzyme inhibitor peptides and signal peptides. The use of signal peptides in cosmetics increased over a few years. These molecules trigger a signaling cascade and stimulate fibroblast collagen production, the proliferation of elastin, fibronectin, laminin, etc. Thus, a literature search on a topical application of the most common signal peptides; and their current status in the cosmetic industry was carried out.

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BACKGROUND: The rate of cosmetic procedures and use of skincare products is considered to be affected during the pandemic period; however, this has not been investigated yet. OBJECTIVE: To determine whether the ongoing pandemic has changed people's habits related to skincare products and cosmetic procedures. METHODS: We conducted a multicenter survey study covering both private and public hospitals. Sociodemographic characteristics and clinical diagnoses of the patients were noted by dermatologists. A survey was used to determine the type and application areas of skincare products and cosmetic procedures before and during the pandemic, whether the patients were concerned about being infected, and any change in the make-up habits of female patients. RESULTS: Of the 1437 patients, 86.7% presented to the hospital due to dermatological complaints and 13.3% for cosmetic procedures. The rate of those that did not use skincare products was 0.05% before and 0.06% during the pandemic. Of the participants, 43.2% had undergone cosmetic procedures before and 38.1% during the pandemic. For both periods, the most frequent cosmetic procedure applied was laser epilation, followed by skincare treatment and chemical peeling. While undergoing these procedures, 34.9% of the patients were concerned about contracting coronavirus. CONCLUSION: There was no significant difference in the use of skincare products and cosmetic procedures before and during the pandemic. The majority of the patients continued to undergo these procedures despite their fear of being infected. This shows that during the pandemic period, patients are concerned with their appearance and continue to undergo cosmetic procedures and pay attention to their skincare.

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In recent times, a considerable amount of evidence has come to light regarding the effect that air pollution has on skin conditions. The human skin is the chief protection we have against environmental harm, whether biological, chemical, or physical. The stress from these environmental factors, along with internal influences, can be a cause of skin aging and enlarged pores, thinner skin, skin laxity, wrinkles, fine lines, dryness, and a more fragile dermal layer. This knowledge has led to greater demand for skin cosmetics and a requirement for natural raw ingredients with a high degree of safety and efficiency in combating skin complications. Recent developments in green technology have made the employment of naturally occurring bioactive compounds more popular, and novel extraction methods have ensured that the use of these compounds has greater compatibility with sustainable development principles. Thus, there is a demand for investigations into efficient non-harmful naturally occurring raw ingredients; compounds derived from algae could be beneficial in this area. Algae, both macroalgae and microalgae, consists of waterborne photosynthetic organisms that are potentially valuable as they have a range of bioactive compounds in their composition. Several beneficial metabolites can be obtained from algae, such as antioxidants, carotenoids, mycosporine-like amino acids (MAA), pigments, polysaccharides, and scytonemin. Various algae strains are now widely employed in skincare products for various purposes, such as a moisturizer, anti-wrinkle agent, texture-enhancing agents, or sunscreen. This research considers the environmental stresses on human skin and how they may be mitigated using cosmetics created using algae; special attention will be paid to external factors, both generally and specifically (amongst them light exposure and pollutants).

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