RESUMEN

Traditional technologies applied for obtaining plant raw materials for cosmetic production are based primarily on high-level processing, which is reflected in the qualitative composition of the resulting materials. By using low-temperature drying, it is possible to retain in the raw materials a range of valuable ingredients. In this study, blue honeysuckle powder was used as an ingredient of cosmetic face masks. The stability of the masks was evaluated. Dynamic viscosity, yield point and texture analysis of the cosmetics was performed. The color of the emulsions and the level of skin hydration after face mask application was determined. Emulsions were found to be stable. A decrease in dynamic viscosity of the emulsions as a function of increasing concentrations of the additive and under the conditions of rising rotational speed were observed. Similarly, an increase in the concentration of blue honeysuckle in the emulsions resulted in a decrease in the value of the yield point. Based on the results, it can be stated that the addition of blue honeysuckle caused a decrease in hardness of the masks, while the opposite trend was observed for adhesive force. It was found that an increase in the concentration of blue honeysuckle gave a reddish-yellow color to the samples. Corneometric assessment confirmed proper skin hydration after the application of the emulsions.

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RESUMEN

This paper analyses the semi-industrial process of spray drying chokeberry juice with carbohydrate polymers used as a carrier. Tapioca dextrin (Dx) was proposed and tested as an alternative carrier and it was compared with maltodextrin carriers (MDx), which are the most common in industrial practice. The influence of selected process parameters (carrier type and content, inlet air temperature, atomiser speed) on the characteristics of dried chokeberry powder was investigated. The size and microstructure of the powder particles, the bulk and apparent density, porosity, flowability, yield and bioactive properties were analysed. In comparison with MDx, the Dx carrier improved the handling properties, yield and bioactive properties. An increase in the Dx carrier content improved the phenolic content, antioxidant capacity, flowability and resulted in greater yield of the powder. An increase in the drying temperature increased the size of particles and improved powder flowability but it also caused a greater loss of the phenolic content and antioxidant capacity. The rotary atomizer speed had the most significant effect on the bioactive properties of obtained powders, which increased along with its growth. The following conditions were the most favourable for chokeberry juice with tapioca dextrin (Dx) as the carrier: inlet air temperature, 160 °C; rotary atomizer speed, 15,000 rpm; and Dx carrier content, 60%.

RESUMEN

Rowanberries have been traditionally used in various processed foods. Scientific research demonstrates the pharmacological effects of Sorbus L. fruits are determined by their unique composition of biologically active compounds. The aim of this study was to determine the composition of flavonoids, phenolic acids, anthocyanins, carotenoids, organic acids and sugars as well as the total antioxidant activity in fruit powders of 20 Sorbus cultivars. Chemical profiles of rowanberry fruit powders vary significantly. Cultivars 'Burka', 'Likernaja', 'Dodong', and 'Fructo Lutea' distinguish themselves with exclusive phytochemical composition and high antioxidant activity. Fruit powders from 'Burka', 'Likernaja' contain the highest contents of anthocyanins while fruit powder samples from 'Fructo Lutea' and 'Dodong' contain the highest levels of phenolic acids, ascorbic acid and the lowest levels of fructose. Fruit powder samples from 'Dodong' also contain the highest levels of ß-carotene and sorbitol and the lowest levels of malic acid. Cultivars 'Burka', 'Likernaja', 'Dodong', and 'Fructo Lutea' could be selected as eligible raw materials for the preparation of rowanberry fruit powders.

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