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BACKGROUND: Repeated exposure to ultraviolet A (UVA) irradiation, which can penetrate the epidermis and reach the dermis, is one of the major causes of skin photoaging. Photoaged skin is characterized clinically by generalized wrinkling, a dry and loose appearance, and seborrheic keratoses, along with skin barrier dysfunction. Fucoxanthin, a xanthophyll carotenoid with a specific allenic bond and 5,6-monoepoxide in its structure, has been found to serve various functions as a food supplement. In the present study, the protective effects of orally administered fucoxanthin at relatively low concentrations (0.001% and 0.01%) against UVA induced photoaging were evaluated in vivo using hairless mice. RESULTS: Oral supplementation of 0.001% fucoxanthin was sufficient for its metabolites to accumulate in the skin, thereby inhibiting pathological changes induced by UVA irradiation, including impaired skin barrier function and accelerated wrinkle formation. Analysis of gene expression revealed that dietary fucoxanthin exerted antiphotoaging effects, possibly by modulating natural moisturizing factor (NMF) synthesis, desquamation, and ceramide composition in the epidermis, and by inhibiting the UVA induced degradation of collagen fibers and inflammation in the dermis. CONCLUSION: Taken together, our data indicate the potential application of dietary fucoxanthin as a novel ingredient in nutricosmetics for skin care against photoaging. © 2024 Society of Chemical Industry.

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Ultraviolet B (UVB) light exposure accelerates skin photoaging. Human adipose-derived stem cell exosomes (hADSC-Exos) and some antioxidants may have anti-photoaging effects. However, it is unknown whether the combination of hADSC-Exos and antioxidants plays a synergistic role in anti-photoaging. In cellular and 3D skin models, we showed that vitamin E (VE) and hADSC-Exos were optimal anti-photoaging combinations. In vivo, VE and hADSC-Exos increased skin tightening and elasticity in UVB-induced photoaging mice Combined treatment with VE and hADSC-Exos inhibited SIRT1/NF-κB pathway. These findings contribute to the understanding of hADSC-Exos in conjunction with other antioxidants, thereby providing valuable insights for the future pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries.

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Centella asiatica (L.) Urban is a medical plant rich in triterpenoids, frequently used in Asia to treat skin conditions such as acne. To search for anti-photoaging agents, 16 known triterpenoids and five undescribed triterpenoids, including three ursane, one oleanane and one nor-ursane were isolated from the whole herb of C. asiatica. The structures and relative stereochemistry of these compounds were elucidated by detailed NMR spectra and HRESIMS. Compounds 1 and 2 were isomers of ursane-type and oleane-type triterpenes with rare aldehyde groups on C-23. Compound 4 was a unique example of a nor-ursane type triterpenoid. The Ultraviolet B (UVB) induced HaCaT cell damage model was used to measure the in vitro anti-photoaging activity of all 21 compounds. Twenty compounds significantly increased HaCaT viability and inhibited lactate dehydrogenase (LDH) release after UVB exposure. These findings highlight the protective effects of C. asiatica-derived triterpenoids against UVB damage and indicate their potential as natural agents that can protect the skin against photoaging.

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Pyracantha fortuneana is a cultivated pant extensively cultivated worldwide for its ornamental value and ecological benefits. In this study, a polysaccharide with anti-photoaging activity was extracted and purified from P. fortuneana fruit (PPFP). The structural constitution of PPFP was elucidated by molecular weight determination, FT-IR, monosaccharide composition analysis, smith degradation, methylation, and NMR spectroscopy. The results revealed that PPFP is a macromolecular polysaccharide with a weight-average molecular weight of 70,895 Da. The PPFP is predominantly characterized by →3,6)-ß-Galp-(1→, →5,3)-α-Araf-(1 → and →4,2)-α-Xylp-(1→, →4)-ß-Galp-(1 → and →4)-ß-GalpA-(1 → glycosidic linkages, with t-α-Araf-(1 → and t-α-Glcp-(1 → terminal units. The anti-photoaging activity and potential mechanism of action of PPFP was investigated in vitro and in vivo. Results showed that PPFP exerted anti-photoaging effect on UVB-damaged HaCaT cells by ameliorating cell apoptosis, regulating the mitochondrial membrane potential and oxidative stress level, alleviating the phosphorylation level of the proteins in MAPK pathways, and repairing the expression of tight junction proteins. Moreover, PPFP enhanced the lifespan and diminished the oxidative stress in UVB-injured Caenorhabditis elegans. Collectively, this study comprehensively elucidates the anti-photodamaging potential of P. fortuneana fruit polysaccharide and offers a novel plant-derived adjuvant therapy for the treating photodamage.

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Silkworm (Bombyx mori) pupae are popular edible insects with high nutritional and therapeutic value. Currently, there is growing interest in the comprehensive application of silkworm pupae. In this study, peptides that exhibited anti-photoaging activity were obtained from silkworm pupae protein, aiming to investigate the protective effects and potential mechanisms of silkworm pupae peptides (SPPs) on skin photoaging. The results showed that SPPs were composed of 900 short peptides and could effectively alleviate skin photoaging progression. They significantly eliminated excessive production of ROS and MDA; meanwhile, they also renovated the antioxidant enzyme activities. The biomarkers related to collagen synthesis and degradation, including hydroxyproline, interstitial collagenase, and gelatinase, demonstrated that SPPs could suppress collagen degradation. Histopathological results showed that SPPs could reduce the inflammatory infiltrate and the thickness of the dermis and epidermis, as well as increase the collagen bundles and muscle fibers. The histopathological and biochemical results confirmed that SPPs could alleviate photoaging by inhibiting abnormal skin changes, reducing oxidative stress, and immune suppression. Overall, these data prove the protective effects of SPPs against the photoaging process, suggesting their potential as an active ingredient in skin photoaging prevention and therapy.

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This study takes the fruit of Rosa roxburghii Tratt (RRT) as a fermentation substrate and carries out a quantitative visual analysis of the domestic and foreign literature on screenings of five different lactic acid bacteria to obtain a fermentation broth. Systemic anti-photoaging effects are analyzed at the biochemical, cellular, and molecular biological levels. DPPH and ABTS free radical scavenging activities are used to verify the antioxidant capacity of the RRT fruit fermentation broth in vitro. Human embryonic skin fibroblasts (HESs) are used to establish a UVA damage model, and the antioxidant capacity of the RRT fruit fermentation broth is verified in terms of intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) and antioxidant enzyme activity. RT-qPCR and ELISA are used to detect the expression of TGF-ß/Smad, MMPs, and the MAPK/AP-1 and Nrf2/Keap-1 signaling pathways in order to explore the anti-oxidation and anti-photoaging effects of the RRT fruit fermentation broth by regulating different signaling pathways. The results show that an RRT fruit fermentation broth can effectively protect cells from oxidative stress caused by UVA and has significant anti-photoaging effects, with the co-cultured Lactobacillus Yogurt Starter LYS-20297 having the highest overall effect.

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Solar UVB irradiation cause skin photoaging by inducing the high expression of matrix metalloproteinase (MMPs) to inhibit the expression of Type1 procollagen synthesis. 1-Kestose, a natural trisaccharide, has been indicated to show a cytoprotective role in UVB radiation-induced-HaCaT cells. However, few studies have confirmed the anti-aging effects. In the present study, we evaluated the anti-photoaging and pathological mechanism of 1-kestose using Human keratinocytes (HaCaT) cells. The results found that 1-kestose pretreatment remarkably reduced UVB-generated reactive oxygen species (ROS) accumulation in HaCaT cells. 1-Kestose suppressed UVB radiation-induced MMPs expressions by blocking MAPK/AP-1 and NF-κB p65 translocation. 1-Kestose pretreatment increased Type 1 procollagen gene expression levels by activating TGF-ß/Smad signaling pathway. Taken together, our results demonstrate that 1-kestose may serve as a potent natural trisaccharide for inflammation and photoaging prevention.

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Skin photoaging, resulting from prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation, is a form of exogenous aging that not only impacts the aesthetic aspect of the skin but also exhibits a strong correlation with the onset of skin cancer. Nonetheless, the safety profile of non-natural anti-photoaging medications and the underlying physiological alterations during the process of photoaging remain inadequately elucidated. Consequently, there exists a pressing necessity to devise more secure interventions involving anti-photoaging drugs. Multiple studies have demonstrated the noteworthy significance of marine biomolecules in addressing safety concerns related to anti-photoaging and safeguarding the skin. Notably, bioactive peptides have gained considerable attention in anti-photoaging research due to their capacity to mitigate the physiological alterations associated with photoaging, including oxidative stress; inflammatory response; the abnormal expression of matrix metalloproteinase, hyaluronidase, and elastase; and excessive melanin synthesis. This review provides a systematic description of the research progress on the anti-photoaging and skin protection mechanism of marine bioactive peptides. The focus is on the utilization of marine bioactive peptides as anti-photoaging agents, aiming to offer theoretical references for the development of novel anti-photoaging drugs and methodologies. Additionally, the future prospects of anti-aging drugs are discussed, providing an initial reference for further research in this field.

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Kappa-carrageenan is one of the most traded marine-derived hydrocolloids used in the food-and-beverage, pharmaceuticals, and personal care/cosmetics industries. K. alvarezii (previously known as Kappaphycus alvarezii) is arguably the most important natural producer based on annual production size and near-homogeneity of the product (i.e., primarily being the kappa-type). The anticipated expansion of the kappa-carrageenan market in the coming years could easily generate >100,000 MT of residual K. alvarezii biomass per year, which, if left untreated, can severely affect the environment and economy of the surrounding area. Among several possible valorization routes, turning the biomass residue into anti-photoaging cosmetic ingredients could potentially be the most sustainable one. Not only optimizing the profit (thus better ensuring economic sustainability) relative to the biofuels- and animal feed-routes, the action could also promote environmental sustainability. It could reduce the dependency of the current cosmetic industry on both petrochemicals and terrestrial plant-derived bioactive compounds. Note how, in contrast to terrestrial agriculture, industrial cultivation of seaweeds does not require arable land, freshwater, fertilizers, and pesticides. The valorization mode could also facilitate the sequestration of more greenhouse gas CO2 as daily-used chemicals, since the aerial productivity of seaweeds is much higher than that of terrestrial plants. This review first summarizes any scientific evidence that K. alvarezii extracts possess anti-photoaging properties. Next, realizing that conventional extraction methods may prevent the use of such extracts in cosmetic formulations, this review discusses the feasibility of obtaining various K. alvarezii compounds using green methods. Lastly, a perspective on several potential challenges to the proposed valorization scheme, as well as the potential solutions, is offered.

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Drug delivery systems have become a research priority in the biomedical field. The incorporation of liposomes to hydrogels further forms more robust multifunctional systems for more effective and sustained topical drug delivery. In this study, carboxymethyl-modified chitosan/hyaluronic acid (CMC/HA, CMH) thermosensitive hydrogel is developed for sustained transdermal delivery of liposomes. Hydrogels are crosslinked by hydrogen bonding, hydrophobic interaction and electrostatic interaction. The gel properties can be regulated by substitution degree (DS), and when DS = 18.20 ± 0.67% (CMH2), the gel temperature is 37.8 °C, allowing rapid gelation at body temperature (315 s). Moreover, CMH2 hydrogel has suitable spreadability (17.7-57.2 cm2 ), viscosity (2133.4 mPa s) and porous structure, which facilitated its adhesion and application on the skin and liposomes delivery. The hydrogel can retard the liposomes release, and the release rate of ascorbyl glucoside (AA2G) is 33.92-49.35% in 24 h. Hydrogel avoids the rapid clearance of liposomes from the skin and improved the skin retention, achieving the long-term release of bioactive components. Liposome-hydrogel system more efficiently promotes the anti-photoaging effect of AA2G on skin, reducing epidermal thickness, melanin deposition and lipid oxidative damage and increasing collagen density. Therefore, liposome-hydrogel systems are proposed as multifunctional delivery systems for sustained transdermal delivery.

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Over the past decades, increasing evidences have demonstrated that five retinoids, including retinol (ROL), retinol acetate (RAc), retinol propionate (RP), retinol palmitate (RPalm), and hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR), can be potential therapeutic agents for skin photoaging. However, therapeutic efficacies and biosafety have never been compared to these compounds. This study aimed to determine the optimal retinoid type(s) for anti-photoaging therapy both in vitro and in vivo. Our data demonstrated that four retinoids (RPalm, RP, HPR and ROL) but not RAc were effective for anti-photoaging treatment at 5 µg/mL in vitro, with action mechanisms associated with antioxidative, anti-inflammatory and anti-skin ECM degradation activities. Notably, both RPalm and RP appeared superior to HPR and ROL for those activities. Importantly, both RPalm and RP were shown to be optimal for anti-photoaging therapy when topically applied at 5 mg/kg in a UVB-induced mice model of photoaging, which is consistent with their high anti-photoaging activities in vitro. Additionally, topical application of these five retinoids showed satisfactory biosafety without causing significant apoptosis in animal organs, although RP application led to a slight decline in animal body weights. Collectively, these data have laid a good foundation for the next development of the clinical application of these retinoids for skin healthcare.

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Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a major cause of skin photoaging through generating excessive oxidative stress and inflammation. One of the strategies is to use photo-chemoprotectors, such as natural products with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, to protect the skin from photo damage. The present study investigates the photoprotective potentials of topical administration of unhydrolyzed collagen, epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), and their combination against ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced photoaging in nude mice. It is found that both the solo and combined pretreatments could recover UVB-induced depletion of antioxidative enzymes, including superoxide dismutase and glutathione peroxidase (GSH-Px), as well as an increase of lipid peroxide malondialdehyde and inflammatory tumor necrosis factor-α. Meanwhile, the UVB-stimulated skin collagen degradation is attenuated significantly with drug treatments, which is evidenced by expression analysis of matrix metalloproteinase-1 and hydroxyproline. Additionally, the mouse skin histology shows that the drug-pretreated groups possess decreased epidermis thickness and normal collagen fiber structure of the dermis layer. These results demonstrate that both EGCG and collagen can protect the skin against UVB-induced skin photoaging. Synergistically, the combination of them shows the maximum prevention to skin damage, showing its potential in the application of anti-photoaging formulation products.

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The high molecular weight and poor solubility of seaweed polysaccharides have limited their function and application. In this study, ultraviolet/hydrogen peroxide (UV/H2O2) treatment was used to prepare low-molecular-weight seaweed polysaccharides from Sargassum fusiforme. The effects of UV/H2O2 treatment on the physicochemical properties and anti-photoaging activity of S. fusiforme polysaccharides were studied. UV/H2O2 treatment effectively degraded polysaccharides from S. fusiforme (DSFPs), reducing their molecular weight from 271 kDa to 26 kDa after 2 h treatment. The treatment did not affect the functional groups in DSFPs but changed their molar percentage of monosaccharide composition and morphology. The effects of the treatment on the anti-photoaging function of S. fusiforme polysaccharides were investigated using human epidermal HaCaT cells in vitro. DFSPs significantly improved the cell viability and hydroxyproline secretion of UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells. In particular, DSFP-45 obtained from UV/H2O2 treatment for 45 min showed the best anti-photoaging effect. Moreover, DSFP-45 significantly increased the content and expression of collagen I and decreased those of pro-inflammatory cytokines, including interleukin-1ß, interleukin-6, and tumor necrosis factor-α. Thus, UV/H2O2 treatment could effectively improve the anti-photoaging activity of S. fusiforme polysaccharides. These results provide some insights for developing novel and efficient anti-photoaging drugs or functional foods from seaweed polysaccharides.

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In this study, to identify bioactive components of Olea europaea leaves extract (OLE), chemometrics analyses including bivariate correlation analysis and partial least squares regression were used to establish the relationships between the chromatograms and anti-photoaging effect of OLE samples. Firstly, the fingerprint of olive leaves extract was determined by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). Photoaging models of HaCaT cells were established by UVB irradiation. The photoaging resistance of OLE was evaluated by cell viability using the MTT assay. Chemometrics analyses showed that compounds 14, 19, 20, 24, 26, and 28 might be the major anti-photoaging components of OLE. Furthermore, after separation by HSCCC and NMR identification, compound 19 is luteoloside and compound 24 is oleuropein. Oleuropein and luteoloside were docked with collagenase (MMP-1), stromelysin (MMP-3), and gelatinase (MMP-9), respectively. The results showed that oleuropein and luteoloside inhibited their activity by directly interacting with MMP-1, MMP-3, and MMP-9, thereby exhibiting anti-photoaging activity. The current bioassay and spectrum-effect relationships are proper for associating sample quality with the active ingredient, and our finding would provide foundation and further understanding of the quality evaluation and quality control of Olea europaea.

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BACKGROUND: The flavonoids and polysaccharides in Portulaca oleracea L. (PO) have significant antibacterial and antioxidant effects, which can inhibit common bacteria and remove free radicals in the body. However, there was little research on the use of PO to alleviate hyperpigmentation and photoaging damage. PURPOSE: This study was to investigate the anti-photoaging and whitening activity mechanism of polysaccharide of PO (POP) in vitro and in vivo. METHOD: In this study, 16 fractions obtained by four enzyme-assisted extraction from PO and their scavenging capabilities against 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl and hydroxyl radicals were evaluated. Among these fractions, a polysaccharide fraction (VPOP3) showed the strongest biological activity. VPOP3 was characterized by Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy, molecular weight (MW), and monosaccharide composition analysis, and the protective effect of VPOP3 on photoaging and hyperpigmentation was researched. RESULTS: VPOP3 is a low-MW acidic heteropolysaccharide with MW mainly distributed around 0.71KDa, arabinose as its main monosaccharide component. VPOP3 reliably reduced the reactive oxygen species levels in cells and zebrafish and the level of lipid peroxidation in zebrafish. In addition, VPOP3 inhibited UVB-induced apoptotic body formation and apoptosis by downregulating caspase-3 and Bax and upregulating Bcl-2 in mitochondrion-mediated signaling pathways. On the other hand, VPOP3 at high concentrations significantly downregulated the expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, tyrosinase (TYR), and TYR-related protein-1 and TYR-related protein-2 in the melanogenic signaling pathway to achieve a whitening effect. CONCLUSION: The above results showed that VPOP3 has superior activities of anti-photoaging and anti-melanogenesis and can be utilized as a safe resource in the manufacture of cosmetics.

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Schizophyllan (SPG), a ß-glucan produced by the fungus Schizophyllum commune, possesses a ß-(1 â†’ 3)-linked backbone with single ß-(1 â†’ 6)-linked glucose side chains at approximately every third residue. In this study, we screened SPG-producing strains of S. commune from different provinces in China. A candidate strain (NTU-1) with a high SPG yield was chosen, and the fermentation conditions were optimized. The optimal carbon and nitrogen sources were sucrose (40 g/L) and yeast extract (20 g/L), respectively. The optimal conditions for pH and temperature were 5.0 and 28 °C, respectively. Inclusion of 0.2 mg/L of 2,4-Dichlorophenoxyacetic acid in the medium further increased the SPG concentration. In a 5-L bioreactor, the fermentation cycle was reduced from the initial seven days to five days, and the concentration of SPG obtained was 21.3 g/L, which is the highest reported to date. In addition, we evaluated the bioactivity of the SPG prepared using strain NTU-1. The results showed that SPG had certain characteristics of anti-oxidation, anti-photoaging, and inhibition of melanin production, making it a promising reagent for skin care.

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Fair flawless skin is the goal for some cultures and the development of irregular skin pigmentation is considered an indication of premature skin aging. Hence, there is a rising demand for skin whitening cosmetics. Thus, this research will be focusing on discovering the anti-pigmentation properties of Swietenia macrophylla seeds. Firstly, the seeds were extracted with ethanol and further fractionate based on their polarity before testing them on zebrafish embryos. The ethanolic extract of the seed demonstrated significant inhibition of both tyrosinase activity and melanin production in the embryos. However, after fractionation, the anti-melanogenic ability was observed to have decreased, signifying that the phytocompounds may be synergistic in nature. Still in the proteomic studies the ethanolic extract and its hexane fraction both induced the downregulation of cathepsin LB and cytoskeletal proteins that have connections to the melanogenic pathway, confirming that S. macrophylla seeds do indeed have anti-pigmentation properties that can be exploited for cosmetic use. Next, limonoids (tetranortriterpenoids found in the seed) were tested for their inhibitory effect against human tyrosinase related protein 1 (TYRP-1) via molecular docking. It was found that limonoids have a stronger binding affinity to TYRP-1 than kojic acid, suggesting that these phytocompounds may have the potential in inhibiting pigmentation. However, this still needs further confirmation before these phytocompounds can be developed into a skin whitening agent. Other assays like ex-vivo or 3D human skin culture can also be used to better study the seeds anti-pigmentation effect on humans.

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Skin photoaging, which causes wrinkles, increased epidermal thickness, and rough skin texture, is induced by ultraviolet B (UVB) exposure. These symptoms by skin photoaging have been reported to be involved in the reduction of collagen by the expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and activator protein-1 (AP-1). This study investigated the protective effects of Bifidobacterium animalis subsp. lactis MG741 (Bi. lactis MG741) in Hs-68 fibroblasts and hairless mice (HR-1) following UVB exposure. We demonstrated that the Bi. lactis MG741 reduces wrinkles and skin thickness by downregulating MMP-1 and MMP-3, phosphorylation of extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK), and c-FOS in fibroblasts and HR-1. Additionally, in UVB-irradiated dorsal skin of HR-1, Bi. lactis MG741 inhibits the expression of nuclear factor kappa-light-chain-enhancer of activated B cells (NF-κB), an inflammation-related factor. Thus, Bi. lactis MG741 has the potential to prevent wrinkles and skin inflammation by modulating skin photoaging markers.

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Asterias pectinifera, a species of starfish and cause of concern in the aquaculture industry, was recently identified as a source of non-toxic and highly water-soluble collagen peptides. In this study, we investigated the antioxidant and anti-photoaging functions of compounds formulated using collagen peptides from extracts of Asterias pectinifera and Halocynthia roretzi (AH). Our results showed that AH compounds have various skin protective functions, including antioxidant effects, determined by measuring the scavenging activity of 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl radicals, as well as anti-melanogenic effects, determined by measuring tyrosinase inhibition activity. To determine whether ethosome-encapsulated AH compounds (E(AH)) exert ultraviolet (UV)-protective effects, human dermal fibroblasts or keratinocytes were incubated with E(AH) before and after exposure to UVA or UVB. E(AH) treatment led to inhibition of photoaging-induced secretion of matrix metalloproteinase-1 and interleukin-6 and -8, which are associated with inflammatory responses during UV irradiation. Finally, the antibacterial effects of AH and E(AH) were confirmed against both gram-negative and gram-positive bacteria. Our results indicate that E(AH) has the potential for use in the development of cosmetics with a range of skin protective functions.

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Fibroblasts account for more than 95% of dermal cells maintaining dermal structure and function. However, UVA penetrates the dermis and causes oxidative stress that damages the dermis and accelerates skin aging. Puerarin, the main active ingredient of Puerariae lobata, has been demonstrated to withstand oxidative stress caused by a variety of factors. However, there are limited findings on whether puerarin protects fibroblasts from UVA-induced oxidative stress damage. The effects of puerarin on human skin fibroblasts (HSF) under UVA-induced oxidative stress were investigated in this study. It is found that puerarin upregulates antioxidant enzymes' mRNA expression level and their content through modulating the KEAP1-Nrf2/ARE signaling pathway, thus improving cell antioxidant capacity and successfully eliminating UVA-induced reactive oxygen species (ROS) and lipid oxidation product malondialdehyde (MDA). Additionally, puerarin blocks the overexpression of human extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK), human c-Jun amino-terminal kinase (JNK), and P38, which downregulates matrix metalloproteinase 1 (MMP-1) expression and increases type I collagen (COL-1) expression. Moreover, preliminary research on mouse skin suggests that puerarin can hydrate, moisturize, and increase the antioxidant capacity of skin tissue. These findings suggest that puerarin can protect the skin against photoaging.

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