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Mosses (Bryophyta), particularly species of the genus Sphagnum, which have been used for centuries for the treatment of skin diseases and damage, are still not explored enough in terms of their use in cosmetics. The purpose of this study was to determine the antioxidant properties of water-ethanol extracts from four selected species of the genus Sphagnum (S. girgenshonii Russow, S. magellanicum Brid., S. palustre L., and S. squarrosum Crome) and their impact on the expression of genes encoding key enzymes for the functioning of the skin. In this study, the effects of Sphagnum extracts on the expression of genes encoding tyrosinase, collagenase, elastase, hyaluronidase and hyaluronic acid synthase in human dermal fibroblasts were determined for the first time in vitro. The extracts inhibited tyrosinase gene expression and showed antioxidant activity. The experiment showed an increase in the expression of some genes encoding collagenase (MMP1) or hyaluronidase (HYAL2, HYAL3 and HYAL4) and a decrease in the hyaluronan synthase (HAS1, HAS2 and HAS3) genes expression by the tested extracts. The obtained results suggest that using extracts from the tested Sphagnum species in anti-aging cosmetics does not seem beneficial. Further studies are needed to clarify their impact on the skin.

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Background: In addition to its use as a health food, ginseng is used in cosmetics and shampoo because of its extensive health benefits. The ginsenoside, Rh2, is a component of ginseng that inhibits tumor cell proliferation and differentiation, promotes insulin secretion, improves insulin sensitivity, and shows antioxidant effects. Methods: The effects of Rh2 on cell survival, extracellular matrix (ECM) protein expression, and cell differentiation were examined. The antioxidant effects of Rh2 in UV-irradiated normal human dermal fibroblast (NHDF) cells were also examined. The effects of Rh2 on mitochondrial function, morphology, and mitophagy were investigated in UV-irradiated NHDF cells. Results: Rh2 treatment promoted the proliferation of NHDF cells. Additionally, Rh2 increased the expression levels of ECM proteins and growth-associated immediate-early genes in ultraviolet (UV)-irradiated NHDF cells. Rh2 also affected antioxidant protein expression and increased total antioxidant capacity. Furthermore, treatment with Rh2 ameliorated the changes in mitochondrial morphology, induced the recovery of mitochondrial function, and inhibited the initiation of mitophagy in UV-irradiated NHDF cells. Conclusion: Rh2 inhibits mitophagy and reinstates mitochondrial ATP production and membrane potential in NHDF cells damaged by UV exposure, leading to the recovery of ECM, cell proliferation, and antioxidant capacity.

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The phenothiazine derivatives, tricyclic 10H-3,6-diazaphenothiazine (DPT-1) and pentacyclic 7-(3'-dimethylaminopropyl)diquinothiazine (DPT-2), have recently been shown to exhibit promising anticancer activities in vitro. In this report, we demonstrated that DPT-1 and DPT-2 could be pro-apoptotic agents in lung carcinoma, the human lung carcinoma A549 and non-small lung carcinoma H1299, in the range of IC50 = 1.52-12.89 µM, with a protective potential to healthy cell lines BEAS-2B and NHDF. The compounds showed higher activity in the range of the tested concentrations and low cytotoxicity in relation to normal healthy cells than doxorubicin, used as the reference drug. The cytostatic potential of DPT-1 and DPT-2 was demonstrated with the use of MTT assay. Cell cycle analysis via flow cytometry using Annexin-V assay showed the pro-apoptotic and pro-necrotic role of the studied diazaphenothiazines in the cell cycle. DPT-1 and DPT-2 initiated a biological response in the investigated cancer models with a different mechanism and at a different rate. Based on these findings, it can be concluded that DPT-1 and DPT-2 have potential as chemotherapeutic agents.

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ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE: Aloe vera (L.) Burm. f. (Liliaceae family) is a well-known traditional medicinal plant, that has been used to treat a variety of illnesses, for decades ranging from cancer to skin disorders including wounds. It has been included in the traditional and herbal healthcare systems of many cultures around the world, as well as the pharmacopeia of different countries. Several in vitro and in vivo studies have also confirmed its potential antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and wound-healing activities, etc. in the consistency of its historical and traditional uses. However, most studies to date are based on the A. vera gel and latex including its wound-healing effects. Very few studies have been focused on its flower, and rarely with its effects on cutaneous wound healing and its molecular mechanism. AIM OF THE STUDY: To the best of our knowledge, this is the first study to report on the synergistic effect of the A. vera flower (AVF) and Aloe gel (PAG) on cutaneous wound-healing, as well as revealing its molecular mechanism targeting microfibril-associated glycoprotein 4 (MFAP4) and its associated signaling pathway. METHODS: To investigate the synergistic effect of A. vera flower and Aloe gel in cutaneous wound healing, cell viability, and cell migration, as well proliferation assay was performed. This was followed by quantitative real-time polymerase chain reaction and Western blot analyses in wounded conditions to check the effects of this mixture on protein and mRNA levels in normal human dermal fibroblast (NHDF) cells. Moreover, small interfering RNA (siRNA) -mediated knockdown of MFAP4 in NHDF cells was performed followed by migration assay and cell cycle analysis, to confirm its role in cutaneous wound healing. Additionally, HaCaT cells were included in this study to evaluate its migratory and anti-inflammatory effects. RESULTS: Based on our obtained results, the PAG and AVF mixture synergistically induced the proliferation, migration, and especially ECM formation of NHDF cells by enhancing the expression of MFAP4. Other extracellular components associated with MFAP4 signaling pathway, such as fibrillin, collagen, elastin, TGF ß, and α-SMA, also increased at both the protein and mRNA levels. Subsequently, this mixture initiated the phosphorylation of the extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK) and AKT signaling pathways, and the S-phase of the cell cycle was also slightly modified. Also, the mixture induced the migration of HaCaT cells along with the suppression of inflammatory cytokines. Moreover, the siRNA-mediated knockdown highlighted the crucial role of MFAP4 in cutaneous wound healing in NHDF cells. CONCLUSION: This study showed that the mixture of PAG and AVF has significant wound healing effects targeting MFAP4 and its associated signaling pathway. Additionally, MFAP4 was recognized as a new potential biomarker of wound healing, which can be confirmed by further in vivo studies.

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In the present work, we establish novel "environmentally-friendly" oil-in-water nanoemulsions to enhance the transdermal delivery of bakuchiol, the so-called "bioretinol" obtained from powdered Psoralea corylifolia seeds via a sustainable process, i.e., using a supercritical fluid extraction approach with pure carbon dioxide (SC-CO2). According to Green Chemistry principles, five novel formulations were stabilized by "green" hybrid ionic surfactants such as coco-betaine-surfactin molecules obtained from coconut and fermented rapeseed meal. Preliminary optimization studies involving three dispersion stability tests, i.e., centrifugation, heating, and cooling cycles, indicated the most promising candidates for further physicochemical analysis. Finally, nanoemulsion colloidal characterization provided by scattering (dynamic and electrophoretic light scattering as well as backscattering), microscopic (transmission electron and confocal laser scanning microscopy), and spectroscopic (UV-Vis spectroscopy) methods revealed the most stable nanocarrier for transdermal biological investigation. In vitro, topical experiments provided on human skin cell line HaCaT keratinocytes and normal dermal NHDF fibroblasts indicated high cell viability upon treatment of the tested formulation with a final 0.02-0.2 mg/mL bakuchiol concentration. This excellent biocompatibility was confirmed by ex vivo and in vivo tests on animal and human skin tissue. The improved permeability and antiaging potential of the bakuchiol-encapsulated rich extract were observed, indicating that the obtained ecological nanoemulsions are competitive with commercial retinol formulations.

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Since nimesulide, a nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drug, is known to be a selective inhibitor of cyclooxygenase-2 and shows activity against cancer cells, there has been much interest in developing related molecules with enhanced anticancer properties. Taking in consideration structural features of nimesulide analogues ten new ortho-(akylthio)-N-alkylacetanilides were synthesized and fully characterized. The antiproliferative effect of these acetanilides was evaluated against human breast (MCF-7) and prostate (LNCaP) cancer cell lines as well as normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF). In particular, acetoacetanilides with methylcyclohexyl and/or 2,4-dimethylbenzyl groups linked to amide group and/or to sulfur atom had interesting cytotoxicities against human breast cancer cells. Moreover, these groups caused an increase in the antiproliferative effect against both cancer cells. Docking studies revealed the possibility of these acetoacetanilides to be potential ligands of the androgen receptor, though hormone-independent mechanisms may be involved in antiproliferative effects shown by these acetoacetanilides. In addition, 3D-QSAR studies demonstrated that the cytotoxic activity against the human breast cancer cell line was dependent on both bulkiness and electrostatic nature of the N- and S-alkyl groups of acetoacetanilides.

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