RESUMEN
Over the last several decades, Cannabis sativa L. has become one of the most fashionable plants. To use the hemp potential for the development of a sustainable textile bio-product sector, it is necessary to learn about the effect of the processes creating hemp's value chain on fibre properties. This review presents a multi-perspective approach to industrial hemp as a resource delivering textile fibres. This article extensively explores the current development of hemp fibre processes including methods of fibre extraction and processing and comprehensive fibre characteristics to indicate the challenges and opportunities regarding Cannabis sativa L. Presented statistics prove the increasing interest worldwide in hemp raw material and hemp-based bio-products. This article discusses the most relevant findings in terms of the effect of the retting processes on the composition of chemical fibres resulting in specific fibre properties. Methods of fibre extraction include dew retting, water retting, osmotic degumming, enzymatic retting, steam explosion and mechanical decortication to decompose pectin, lignin and hemicellulose to remove them from the stem with varying efficiency. This determines further processes and proves the diversity of ways to produce yarn by employing different spinning systems such as linen spinning, cotton and wool spinning technology with or without the use of the decortication process. The aim of this study is to provide knowledge for better understanding of the textile aspects of hemp fibres and their relationship to applied technological processes.
RESUMEN
Cannabis products have been used in various fields of everyday life for many centuries, and applications in folk medicine and textile production have been well-known for many centuries. For traditional textile production, hemp fibers were extracted from the stems by water retting in stagnant or slow-moving waters. During this procedure, parts of the plant material' among them phytocannabinoids' are released into the water. Cannabinol (CBN) is an important degradation product of the predominant phytocannabinoids found in Cannabis species. Thus, it is an excellent indicator for present as well as ancient hemp water retting. In this study, we developed and validated a simple and fast method for the determination of CBN in sediment samples using high-performance thin-layer chromatography (HPTLC) combined with electrospray ionization mass spectrometry (ESI-MS), thereby testing different extraction and cleanup procedures' as well as various sorbents and solvents for planar chromatography. This method shows a satisfactory overall analytical performance with an average recovery rate of 73%. Our protocol enabled qualitative and quantitative analyses of CBN in samples of a bottom sediment core' having been obtained from a small lake in Northern India, where intense local retting of hemp was suggested in the past. The analyses showed a maximum CBN content in pollen zone 4 covering a depth range of 262-209 cm, dating from approximately 480 BCE to 1050 CE. These findings correlate with existing records of Cannabis-type pollen. Thus, the method we propose is a helpful tool to track ancient hemp retting activities. Graphical Abstract.