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Ginseng has been utilized for centuries in both the medicinal and cosmetic realms. Recent studies have actively investigated the biological activity of ginseng berry and its constituents. (+)-Syringaresinol [(+)-SYR], an active component of ginseng berry, has been demonstrated to have beneficial effects on the skin, but its potential impact on skin pigmentation has not been fully explored. Here, the antioxidant and anti-pigmentary activity of (+)-SYR were evaluated in B16F10 murine melanoma cells and in an artificial human pigmented skin model, Melanoderm™. A real-time PCR, Western blotting, immunofluorescence staining, and histochemistry staining were conducted to confirm the effects of (+)-SYR on pigmentation. (+)-SYR reduced melanogenesis and dendrite elongation in α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-primed B16F10 cells with low cytotoxicity. (+)-SYR suppressed the expression of melanogenic genes, namely tyrosinase (TYR), tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP-1), and tyrosinase-related protein 2 (TRP-2). Notably, (+)-SYR attenuated α-MSH-induced cytosolic and mitochondrial reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation, which was attributable at least in part to the suppression of NADPH oxidase-4 (NOX 4) expression. Finally, the brightening activities of (+)-SYR were verified using Melanoderm™, underscoring the potential of ginseng berry and (+)-SYR as functional ingredients in skin-brightening cosmetics.

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Dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (D6) is a siloxane substance mainly used in cosmetics and personal care products. While octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5) were once commonly used in personal care products, their usage has been restricted due to the classification as persistent, bioaccumulative, and toxic (PBT)/very persistent and very bio-accumulative (vPvB) substances. While D6 has emerged as a substitute for D4 and D5, the risk assessment for D6 remains limited compared to the evaluations for D4 and D5. To address this gap, we conducted a comprehensive risk assessment of D6. In this study, we reviewed the toxicity information on D6 and calculated the exposure level to D6, considering the content of D6 in cosmetic products. No observed adverse effect level (NOAEL) of 1500 mg/kg bw/day was established in a repeated dose toxicity study after oral administration to rats. Negative results were found in tests on the ocular and skin irritation, skin sensitization, and genotoxicity of D6. According to the product content of up to 48% of D6 reported in 2012, the Systemic Exposure Dose (SED) was 5.4E-06 to 7.04 mg/kg bw/day for a 60 kg adult using the exposure factors from Korean cosmetic usage. The Margin of Safety was estimated to be between 35.5 and 4.63E+07, posing a potential health risk of D6 according to the maximum concentration and the product type. Further consideration of the potential of D6 as PBT or vPvB is also required.

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Phthalates are extensively employed plasticizers crucial for conferring flexibility and plasticity to polyvinyl chloride. Phthalates, including DEHP (di(2-ethylhexyl)phthalate), present in diverse products, have been identified in fine dust and are capable of infiltrating the body, potentially posing health hazards. Importantly, melanocytes, existing at the basal layer of the epidermis, are susceptible to toxic substances. In our study, we employed the 3D human pigmented epidermis model, MelanoDerm™, along with the B16F10 murine melanoma cell line, to examine the influence of DEHP exposure on melanocytes. The exposure to low concentrations of DEHP (~ 5 µM), resulted in the extension of melanocyte dendrites, indicating the stimulation of melanocytes. Analysis of gene expression and protein profiles unveiled the up-regulation of MITF, Arpc2, and TRP1 genes subsequent to DEHP exposure, indicating alterations in cytoskeletal and melanosome-related genetic and protein components in melanocytes. Notably, increased pigmentation was observed in MelanoDerm™ following DEHP exposure. DEHP-stimulated reactive oxygen species generation appeared to be involved in these events since the antioxidant, ascorbic acid attenuated ROS generation and MITF upregulation. Collectively, our study demonstrated that DEHP exposure can induce cytoskeletal disturbance and skin pigmentation through oxidative stress.

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Botanical extracts, widely used in cosmetics, pose a challenge to safety assessment due to their complex compositions. The threshold of toxicological concern (TTC) approach, offering a safe exposure level for cosmetic ingredients, proves to be a promising solution for ensuring the safety of cosmetic ingredients with low exposure level. We assessed the safety of Paeonia lactiflora root extract (PLR), commonly used in skin conditioning products, with the TTC. We identified 50 constituents of PLR extract from the USDA database and literature exploration. Concentration of each constituent of PLR extract was determined with the information from USDA references, literature, and experimental analysis. The genotoxicity of PLR and its constituents was assessed in vitro and in silico respectively. Cramer class of the constituents of the PLR extract was determined with Toxtree 3.1 extended decision tree using ChemTunes®. Systemic exposure of each constituent from leave-on type cosmetic products containing PLR at a 1% concentration was estimated and compared with respective TTC threshold. Two constituents exceeding TTC threshold were further analyzed for dermal absorption using in silico tools, which confirmed the safety of PLR extract in cosmetics. Collectively, we demonstrated that the TTC is a useful tool for assessing botanical extract safety in cosmetics.

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Natural language processing (NLP) technology has recently used to predict substance properties based on their Simplified Molecular-Input Line-Entry System (SMILES). We aimed to develop a model predicting human skin sensitizers by integrating text features derived from SMILES with in vitro test outcomes. The dataset on SMILES, physicochemical properties, in vitro tests (DPRA, KeratinoSensTM, h-CLAT, and SENS-IS assays), and human potency categories for 122 substances sourced from the Cosmetics Europe database. The ChemBERTa model was employed to analyze the SMILES of substances. The last hidden layer embedding of ChemBERTa was tested with other features. Given the modest dataset size, we trained five XGBoost models using subsets of the training data, and subsequently employed bagging to create the final model. Notably, the features computed from SMILES played a pivotal role in the model for distinguishing sensitizers and non-sensitizers. The final model demonstrated a classification accuracy of 80% and an AUC-ROC of 0.82, effectively discriminating sensitizers from non-sensitizers. Furthermore, the model exhibited an accuracy of 82% and an AUC-ROC of 0.82 in classifying strong and weak sensitizers. In summary, we demonstrated that the integration of NLP of SMILES with in vitro test results can enhance the prediction of health hazard associated with chemicals.

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Methyl anthranilate (MA) is a botanical fragrance used in food flavoring with unexplored potential in anti-pigment cosmetics. MA dose-dependently reduced melanin content without affecting cell viability, inhibited dendrite elongation and melanosome transfer in the co-culture system of human melanoma cells (MNT-1) and human keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT), and downregulated melanogenic genes, including tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1 and 2 (TRP-1, TRP-2). Additionally, MA decreased cyclic adenosine monophosphate (cAMP) production and exhibited a significant anti-pigmentary effect in Melanoderm™. These results suggest that MA is a promising anti-pigmentary agent for replacing or complementing existing anti-pigmentary cosmetics.

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Canine atopic dermatitis (CAD) is a genetically predisposed inflammatory pruritic skin disease. The available treatments for CAD have several adverse effects and vary in efficacy, indicating the need for the development of improved treatments. In this study, we aimed to elucidate the therapeutic effects of allogeneic and xenogeneic exosomes on CAD. Six laboratory beagle dogs with CAD were randomly assigned to three treatment groups: control, canine exosome (cExos), or human exosome (hExos) groups. Dogs in the cExos and hExos groups were intravenously administered 1.5 mL of cExos (5 × 1010) and hExos (7.5 × 1011) solutions, respectively, while those in the control group were administered 1.5 mL of normal saline three times per week for 4 weeks. Skin lesion score and transepidermal water loss decreased in cExos and hExos groups compared with those in the control group. The exosome treatments decreased the serum levels of inflammatory cytokines (interferon-γ, interleukin-2, interleukin-4, interleukin-12, interleukin-13, and interleukin-31) but increased those of anti-inflammatory cytokines (interleukin-10 and transforming growth factor-ß), indicating the immunomodulatory effect of exosomes. Skin microbiome analysis revealed that the exosome treatments alleviated skin bacterial dysbiosis. These results suggest that allogeneic and xenogeneic exosome therapy may alleviate CAD in dogs.

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Wharton's jelly-derived mesenchymal stem cell (WJ-MSC)-derived exosomes contain a diverse cargo and exhibit remarkable biological activity, rendering them suitable for regenerative and immune-modulating functions. However, the quantity of secretion is insufficient. A large body of prior work has investigated the use of various growth factors to enhance MSC-derived exosome production. In this study, we evaluated the utilization of thermostable basic fibroblast growth factor (TS-bFGF) with MSC culture and exosome production. MSCs cultured with TS-bFGF displayed superior proliferation, as evidenced by cell cycle analysis, compared with wild-type bFGF (WT-bFGF). Stemness was assessed through mRNA expression level and colony-forming unit (CFU) assays. Furthermore, nanoparticle tracking analysis (NTA) measurements revealed that MSCs cultured with TS-bFGF produced a greater quantity of exosomes, particularly under three-dimensional culture conditions. These produced exosomes demonstrated substantial anti-inflammatory and wound-healing effects, as confirmed by nitric oxide (NO) assays and scratch assays. Taken together, we demonstrate that utilization of TS-bFGF for WJ-MSC-derived exosome production not only increases exosome yield but also enhances the potential for various applications in inflammation regulation and wound healing.

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Background: Ginseng has been used as a traditional medicine and functional cosmetic ingredients for many years. Recent studies have focused on the potential biological effects of the ginseng berry and its ingredients. (+)-Syringaresinol (SYR) is enriched in ginseng berry and its beneficial effects on the skin have been recently reported. However, little is known about the its effects on the wound healing process of skin. Methods: Here, we evaluated the skin wound healing effect of (+)-SYR using the human fibroblast Hs68 cell and ex vivo pig and human skin tissue model. Scratch wound test and hydrogen peroxide (HPO) induce chemical wound model were employed. Results: (+)-SYR promoted the migration and proliferation of Hs68 cells without significant cytotoxicity at the tested concentrations. Especially, in ex vivo pig and human skin tissue, HPO-induced chemical wound was recovered almost completely by (+)-SYR. In line with the finding in Hs68, the protein expression levels of TGF-ß and PCNA, a proliferation marker were increased, demonstrating the beneficial effects of (+)-SYR on skin wound repair. Conclusion: Collectively, we demonstrated that (+)-SYR from ginseng berry, can enhance the wound healing effect by accelerating cell proliferation and skin regeneration, suggesting the potential utility of (+)-SYR for skin wound repair.

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The Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development approved a reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) model for in vitro skin irritation and corrosion tests as an alternative to animal testing for cosmetics, which has been banned in the European Union since 2013. However, RHE models have several limitations, such as high manufacturing costs, a loose skin barrier, and inability to simulate all cellular and non-cellular components of the human epidermis. Therefore, new alternative skin models are needed. Ex vivo skin models have been suggested as promising tools. Here, we investigated the structural similarities in the epidermis of pig and rabbit skin, a commercial RHE model (Keraskin), and human skin. To compare the structural similarity, the thickness of each epidermal layer was compared using molecular markers. Among the candidate human skin surrogates, the epidermal thickness of the pig skin was the most similar to that of human skin, followed by rabbit skin and Keraskin. Keraskin showed thicker cornified and granular layers than human skin, while rabbit skin displayed thinner layers. Moreover, the proliferation indices of Keraskin and rabbit skin were higher than those of human skin, whereas the proliferation index of the pig skin was similar to that of human skin. Some or none of the human skin barrier proteins FLG, CLDN1, and CDH1 were expressed in pig and rabbit skin, whereas all human proteins were expressed in Keraskin. Collectively, we propose ex vivo pig skin as the most suitable model for skin irritation testing because of its similarity to human skin. Supplementary Information: The online version contains supplementary material available at 10.1007/s43188-023-00185-1.

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Cosmetics often contain botanical extracts, which present a challenge for safety assessors due to their complex composition. The threshold of toxicological concern (TTC) approach is considered as a solution for the safety assessment of botanical extracts in cosmetics as part of next-generation risk assessment. In this study, we applied the TTC approach to evaluate the safety of Cnidium officinale rhizome extract (CORE), a widely used botanical extract in skin conditioning products. We identified 32 components of CORE through the USDA database and literature and determined the content of each component through literature or actual analysis where an authentic standard was available. Macro- and micronutrients were also analyzed to exclude them as safe components. The Toxtree® software was used to identify the Cramer class of remaining components. We estimated the systemic exposure of each component from leave-on type cosmetic products containing CORE at a 1% concentration and compared the results to TTC thresholds. All components of CORE had a systemic exposure below the TTC threshold. While batch variations and presence of unknown chemicals in individual CORE materials should be considered, this study demonstrated that the TTC approach can be a useful tool for the safety assessment of botanical extracts in cosmetics.

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Flavonoids enhance the self-renewal and differentiation potential of mesenchymal stem cells (MSCs) and have therapeutic activities, including regenerative, anti-oxidative, and anti-inflammatory effects. Recent studies have revealed that MSC-derived extracellular vesicles (MSC-EVs) have therapeutic effects on tissue regeneration and inflammation. To facilitate further research on the therapeutic potential of MSC-EVs derived from flavonoid-treated MSCs, we surveyed the production of EVs and their therapeutic applications in wound regeneration. MSCs treated with flavonoids enhanced EV production twofold compared with naïve MSCs. EVs produced by MSCs treated with flavonoids (Fla-EVs) displayed significant anti-inflammatory and wound-healing effects in vitro. The wound-healing capacity of EVs was mediated by the upregulation of mitogen-activated protein kinase kinase (MEK)/extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK) signaling. Interestingly, the protein level of p-ERK under inhibition of MEK signals was maintained in Fla-EV-treated fibroblasts, suggesting that Fla-EVs have a higher therapeutic potential than naïve MSC-EVs (Cont-EVs) in wound healing. Moreover, the in vivo wound closure effect of the Fla-EVs showed significant improvement compared with that of the flavonoid-only treatment group and the Cont-EVs. This study provides a strategy for the efficient production of EVs with superior therapeutic potential using flavonoids.

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Skin irritation test is an essential part of the safety assessment of chemicals. Recently, computational models to predict the skin irritation draw attention as alternatives to animal testing. We developed prediction models on skin irritation/corrosion of liquid chemicals using machine learning algorithms, with 34 physicochemical descriptors calculated from the structure. The training and test dataset of 545 liquid chemicals with reliable in vivo skin hazard classifications based on UN Globally Harmonized System [category 1 (corrosive, Cat 1), 2 (irritant, Cat 2), 3 (mild irritant, Cat 3), and no category (nonirritant, NC)] were collected from public databases. After the curation of input data through removal and correlation analysis, every model was constructed to predict skin hazard classification for liquid chemicals with 22 physicochemical descriptors. Seven machine learning algorithms [Logistic regression, Naïve Bayes, k-nearest neighbor, Support vector machine, Random Forest, Extreme gradient boosting (XGB), and Neural net] were applied to ternary and binary classification of skin hazard. XGB model demonstrated the highest accuracy (0.73-0.81), sensitivity (0.71-0.92), and positive predictive value (0.65-0.81). The contribution of physicochemical descriptors to the classification was analyzed using Shapley Additive exPlanations plot to provide an insight into the skin irritation of chemicals. Supplementary Information: The online version contains supplementary material available at 10.1007/s43188-022-00168-8.

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This study introduces a multilamellar ceramide core-structured microvehicle platform for substantial skin barrier function recovery. Our approach essentially focused on fabricating bacterial cellulose nanofiber (BCNF)-enveloped ceramide-rich lipid microparticles (CerMPs) by solidifying BCNF-armored oil-in-water Pickering emulsions. The oil drops consisted of Ceramide NP (a phytosphingosine backbone N-acylated with a saturated stearic acid) and fatty alcohols (FAs) with a designated stoichiometry. The thin BCNF shell layer completely blocked the growth of ceramide molecular crystals from the CerMPs for a long time. The CerMP cores displayed a multilamellar structure wherein the interlayer distance and lateral packing could be manipulated using FAs with different alkyl chain lengths. The CerMPs remarkably lowered the trans-epidermal water loss while restoring the structural integrity of the epidermis in damaged skin. The results obtained herein highlight that the CerMP system provides a practical methodology for developing various types of skin-friendly formulations that can strengthen the skin barrier function.

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BACKGROUND: Keratohyalin granules (KHGs) supply the critical epidermal protein constituents such as filaggrin for maintaining skin barrier function during epidermal differentiation; however, their regulating mechanism remains largely unelucidated. METHODS: To investigate the role of Ras-related protein Rab-25 (RAB25) expression in skin disease, we utilized skin specimens of patients with moderate-to-severe atopic dermatitis (AD) and healthy controls. To investigate the susceptibility of Rab25 knockout mice to AD, we established an oxazolone-induced AD model. RESULTS: We investigated the role of RAB25 in KHG maturation and AD. RAB25-deficient mice showed a disrupted stratum corneum along with skin barrier dysfunction, decreased KHG production, and abnormal KHG processing. Consistently, in the human keratinocyte cell line HaCaT, RAB25 co-expressed with filaggrin-containing KHG and RAB25 silencing impaired KHG formation, which was attributable to abnormal actin dynamics. Most importantly, RAB25 expression was severely downregulated in the skin lesions of patients with AD, which was strongly correlated with disease severity scores. CONCLUSIONS: RAB25 coordinates KHG homeostasis by regulating actin dynamics and is critical for epidermal differentiation and the pathophysiology of AD.

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BACKGROUND & AIMS: Histamine in the stomach traditionally is considered to regulate acid secretion but also has been reported to participate in macrophage differentiation, which plays an important role in tissue homeostasis. Therefore, this study aimed to uncover the precise role of histamine in mediating macrophage differentiation and in maintaining stomach homeostasis. METHODS: Here, we expand on this role using histidine decarboxylase knockout (Hdc-/-) mice with hypertrophic gastropathy. In-depth in vivo studies were performed in Hdc-/- mice, germ-free Hdc-/- mice, and bone-marrow-transplanted Hdc-/- mice. The stomach macrophage populations and function were characterized by flow cytometry. To identify stomach macrophages and find the new macrophage population, we performed single-cell RNA sequencing analysis on Hdc+/+ and Hdc-/- stomach tissues. RESULTS: Single-cell RNA sequencing and flow cytometry of the stomach cells of Hdc-/- mice showed alterations in the ratios of 3 distinct tissue macrophage populations (F4/80+Il1bhigh, F4/80+CD93+, and F4/80-MHC class IIhighCD74high). Tissue macrophages of the stomachs of Hdc-/- mice showed impaired phagocytic activity, increasing the bacterial burden of the stomach and attenuating hypertrophic gastropathy in germ-free Hdc-/- mice. The transplantation of bone marrow cells of Hdc+/+ mice to Hdc-/- mice recovered the normal differentiation of stomach macrophages and relieved the hypertrophic gastropathy of Hdc-/- mice. CONCLUSIONS: This study showed the importance of histamine signaling in tissue macrophage differentiation and maintenance of gastric homeostasis through the suppression of bacterial overgrowth in the stomach.

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Biocides are widely used in everyday life, and accordingly, human exposure to them is inevitable. Especially, the inhalational exposure of humans to biocides and resultant respiratory toxicity are gaining public interest due to the recent catastrophe associated with humidifier disinfectants. Aerosolized chemicals are subject to gravitational deposition and chemical degradation. Therefore, the characterization of the disposition of aerosols is essential to estimate the inhalational exposure to biocides. Here, we compared the disposition of aerosols of one of the commonly used biocide classes, isothiazolinone-based biocides, BIT, MIT, and OIT. An acrylic chamber (40 cm × 40 cm × 50 cm) was created to simulate the indoor environment, and a vacuum pump was used to create airflow (1 LPM). Biocides were sprayed from a vertical nebulizer placed on the ceiling of the chamber, and the distribution of particle sizes and volume was measured using the Optical Particle Sizer (OPS) 3330 device. During and after the aerosol spraying, airborne biocides and those deposited on the surface of the chamber were sampled to measure the deposition using LC-MS/MS. As a result, the broad particle size distribution was observed ranging from 0.3 to 8 µm during the nebulization. The inhalable particle faction (>2 µm) of the isothiazolinones was 32−67.9% in number but 1.2 to 6.4% in volume. Most of the aerosolized biocides were deposited on the chamber's surface while only a minimal portion was airborne (<1%) after the nebulization. More importantly, significant amounts of MIT and OIT were degraded during aerosolization, resulting in poor total recovery compared to BIT (31%, 71% vs. 97% BIT). This result suggests that some isothiazolinones may become unstable during nebulization, affecting their disposition and human exposure significantly.

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Melanocyte cell death can lead to various melanocyte-related skin diseases including vitiligo and leukoderma. Melanocytotoxic chemicals are one of the most well-known causes of nongenetic melanocyte-related diseases, which induce melanocyte cell death through apoptosis. Various chemicals used in cosmetics, medicine, industry and food additives are known to induce melanocyte cell death, which poses a significant risk to the health of consumers and industrial workers. This review summarizes recently reported melanocytotoxic chemicals and their mechanisms of toxicity in an effort to provide insight into the development of safer chemicals.

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Cleaners such as dishwashing liquids contain various chemicals that cause skin damage. Alkaline agents used in cleaners alter the lipid composition of the skin and damage the skin barrier. However, little is known about the effects of acids used in cleaners on the skin. Here, we investigated the effects of acidic pH on the skin and evaluated the skin irritation of acids commonly used in cleaners with a 3D-reconstructed human epidermis model, KeraSkinTM, according to OECD TG439. First, to examine the effects of acidic pH, we evaluated the skin irritation of citrate buffers (0.1 M, McIlvaine buffer) prepared in a wide pH range (pH 1.5-6.0). Surprisingly, cell viability was not significantly affected even at pH 1.5, reflecting that the acidity alone may not be sufficient to induce skin irritation. Even after longer exposure (180 min), the cell viability was not reduced below 50%, a cutoff to determine an irritant. To examine the effect of the anionic part, several organic acids used in cleaners (citric acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, and succinic acid) were examined. These organic acids also failed to reduce viability at 0.1 M. However, at 1 M, most of the acids tested, except lactic acid, were determined to be skin irritants. Histology further supported the skin irritancy of acids at 1 M. Similarly, inorganic acids (hydrogen bromide, hydrogen chloride, nitric acid, and sulfuric acid) were determined to be irritants only at 1 M. In the case of alkaline agents, pH and concentrations were also important factors to determine the skin irritancy, although the epidermal structure and lipids were more damaged than acids. Collectively, we demonstrated that both the pH and concentration are important factors for the skin irritancy of acids, shedding an important insight into the mechanism of skin irritation.