RESUMEN
Human skin is characterized by significant diversity in color and tone, which are determined by the quantity and distribution of melanin pigment in the epidermis. Melanin absorbs and reflects ultraviolet radiation (UVR), preventing the damage to genomic DNA in the epidermis and degradation of collagen in the dermis; therefore, darker skin types are thought to be well protected from the photodamage because of the high melanin content. However, increased content of melanin in combination with the extrinsic stress factors causing inflammation such as excess UVR, allergic reactions, or injury can also frequently lead to cosmetic problems resulting in discoloration and scarring. This review summarizes current knowledge on histopathology and likely molecular signatures of one of the most common problems, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). The mechanisms proposed so far are subsequently discussed in the context of other factors characterizing darker skin types. This includes the common cellular features, organization of upper skin layers, and major biomarkers, with particular emphasis on increased propensities to systemic and localized inflammation. Enhanced or prolonged inflammatory responses can not only affect the process of melanogenesis but also have been implicated in injury-related skin pathologies and aging. Finally, we summarize the major cosmetic treatments for PIH and their known anti-inflammatory targets, which can be beneficial for darker skin tones and combined with broad-spectrum filters against UVR.
RESUMEN
Purpose: Personalized approaches in dermatology are designed to match the specific requirements based on the individual genetic makeup. One major factor accounting for the differences in skin phenotypes is single nucleotide polymorphism (SNP) within several genes with diverse roles that extend beyond skin tone and pigmentation. Therefore, the cellular sensitivities to the environmental stress and damage linked to extrinsic aging could also underlie the individual characteristics of the skin and dictate the unique skin care requirements. This study aimed to identify the likely biomarkers and molecular signatures expressed in skin cells of different ethnic backgrounds, which could aid further the design of personalized skin products based on specific demands. Methods: Using data mining and in-silico modeling, the association of SNP-affected genes with three major skin types of European, Asian and African origin was analyzed and compared within the structure-function gene interaction networks. Cultured dermal fibroblasts were subsequently subjected to ultraviolet radiation and oxidative stress and analyzed for DNA damage and senescent markers. The protective applications of two cosmetic ingredients, Resveratrol and Quercetin, were validated in both cellular and in-silico models. Results: Each skin type was characterized by the presence of SNPs in the genes controlling facultative and constitutive pigmentation, which could also underlie the major differences in responses to photodamage, such as oxidative stress, inflammation, and barrier homeostasis. Skin-type-specific dermal fibroblasts cultured in-vitro demonstrated distinctive sensitivities to ultraviolet radiation and oxidative stress, which could be modulated further by the bioactive compounds with the predicted capacities to interact with some of the genes in the in-silico models. Conclusion: Evaluation of the SNP-affected gene networks and likely sensitivities of skin cells, defined as low threshold levels to extrinsic stress factors, can provide a valuable tool for the design and formulation of personalized skin products that match more accurately diverse ethnic backgrounds.
RESUMEN
Purpose: Human skin undergoes modifications affecting its structural properties and barrier functions involved in protection against age-related damage. Glycation is a non-enzymatic reaction between macromolecules and sugars causing alterations to the elastic fibers and premature aging of the skin. Glycation can be prevented by a range of bioactive molecules; however, at present only a few of them are validated for inclusion in cosmetic products. There is also a demand for reproducible in-vitro assays demonstrating the anti-aging effect of compounds on the skin. This study aimed to define the potential targets for screening and validation of anti-glycation activity of novel cosmetic candidates from natural products and to provide a plausible mechanism for their anti-aging potential based on 3D skin models. Methods: Dermal fibroblasts and 3D skin models were treated with glycation agent and topical applications of Resveratrol derivatives. The samples were analyzed for advanced glycation end products (AGEs) alongside an organization of elastic fibers and expression of proliferative, senescence, and oxidative stress markers by autofluorescence, immunocytochemistry and quantitative assays. Results: Accumulation of AGEs in the 3D skin model is associated with reduced stratification of the epidermis and re-organization of the collagen in the upper, cell-dense layer of the dermis. Treatment of dermal fibroblasts with Resveratrol, OxyResveratrol, Piceatannol, and Triacetyl Resveratrol ameliorates the effects of glycation consistent with cellular aging. Subsequent topical application of the compounds in skin models results in a reduction in glycation-induced AGEs, an increase in collagen expression and a stratification of the epidermis. Conclusion: Glycation could result in age-related alterations in the structural and cellular organizations of the superficial layers of the skin, which can be restored by Resveratrol derivatives, pointing to their promising capacities as bioactive ingredients in cosmetic products. Insight into the potential parameters affected by skin glycation could also serve as a reference for screening the bioactive molecules for cosmetic purposes.