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OBJECTIVE: Periorbital skin ageing signs are multidimensional, highly visible and a concern for many. We evaluated the potential efficacy of an eye cream to diminish these signs. METHODS: Biological markers associated with ageing, barrier function and homeostasis were analysed in vitro to determine the effects of topically applied eye cream, compared to those of a placebo using human skin tissue models and/or explants. Collagen IV, elastin and bone morphogenic protein 4 (BMP4) expression was investigated by immunohistochemical labelling, while filaggrin, kallikrein 7 (KLK7) and HB-EGF were evaluated by RT-qPCR. IL-1α and melanin levels in darkly pigmented skin models were also quantified. The protective effect of the cream on glycation was assessed by a non-enzymatic assay. Finally, the benefits of twice-daily applications of the eye cream for 56 days were instrumentally and clinically evaluated on 33 women. RESULTS: Only the eye cream, not the placebo, stimulated collagen IV and BMP4 protein expression, as well as increased elastin fibre length. It also led to higher HB-EGF, filaggrin and KLK7 mRNA levels. The placebo and the eye cream did not induce changes in IL-1α and melanin levels, but both reduced non-enzymatic glycation. When assessing the in vivo effects of the cream, short-term results indicated skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin profilometry improvement within 15 min. Instrumental evaluations of wrinkles showed a reduction after 7 days, which was clinically perceivable after 28 or 56 days. The eye-opening angle and eyelid sagging also improved after seven and 28 days, respectively. Finally, dark circles became lighter within 7 days (instrumental measurement) or 28 days (clinical assessment). CONCLUSION: The instrumental and clinical evaluations revealed that the eye cream reduced all periorbital ageing signs evaluated. Its effects are supported by the in vitro and ex vivo analyses of molecular markers.

OBJECTIF: Les signes de vieillissement de la peau périorbitaire sont nombreux, très visibles et préoccupent de nombreuses personnes. Nous avons évalué l'efficacité potentielle d'une crème pour les yeux pour atténuer ces signes. MÉTHODES: Les marqueurs biologiques associés au vieillissement, à la fonction barrière et à l'homéostasie de la peau ont été analysés in vitro pour évaluer l'efficacité d'une crème pour les yeux appliquée localement. Ces effets ont été comparés à ceux d'un placebo, sur des modèles et/ou des explants de tissus cutanés humains. L'expression du collagène IV, de l'élastine et de la protéine morphogénique osseuse 4 (BMP4) a été étudiée par marquage immunohistochimique. Celle de la filaggrine, de la kallikréine 7 (KLK7), et du HB­EGF par RT­qPCR. Les niveaux d'IL­1α et de mélanine dans un modèle de peau pigmentée ont également été quantifiés. L'effet protecteur de la crème sur la glycation a été évalué par un test non enzymatique. Enfin, les bénéfices d'une application biquotidienne de la crème pour les yeux ont été évalués instrumentalement et cliniquement sur 33 femmes pendant 56 jours. RÉSULTATS: Seule la crème pour les yeux a stimulé l'expression du collagène IV et de BMP4 en comparaison avec le placebo. La crème est aussi la seule à augmenter la longueur des fibres d'élastine. Elle a également entraîné une augmentation des niveaux d'ARNm de HB­EGF, de la filaggrine et de KLK7. Le placebo et la crème pour les yeux n'ont pas modifié les niveaux d'IL­1α et de la mélanine, mais ont tous deux réduit la glycation non enzymatique. Lors de l'évaluation des effets in vivo, les résultats à court terme ont montré une amélioration de l'hydratation de la peau, de la Perte Insensible en Eau (PIE) et du profil de la peau en 15 min. Les évaluations instrumentales de la profondeur des rides ont indiqué une réduction après 7 jours d'application, réduction cliniquement perceptible après 28 ou 56 jours. La crème périorbitale induit également une amélioration de l'angle d'ouverture des yeux et de l'affaissement des paupières respectivement après 7 et 28 jours. Enfin, les cernes sont devenus plus clairs après 7 jours (mesure instrumentale) ou 28 jours (évaluation clinique). CONCLUSION: Les évaluations instrumentales et cliniques ont révélé que la crème pour les yeux réduisait tous les signes de vieillissement périorbitaires évalués. Ses effets sont confirmés par les analyses in vitro et ex vivo des marqueurs moléculaires.

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Retinoids are the most effective anti-aging ingredients. Yet, their use can result in adverse reactions. Even bakuchiol, a natural functional analog, can lead to contact dermatitis. We previously showed that a Harungana madagascariensis (Lam. ex Poir.) plant extract (HME) presents retinol-like properties in vitro. Therefore, we performed a preliminary analysis of the anti-aging potential of a cream containing HME on 46 subjects. The participants applied a HME cream on half of their face and one forearm. The effects induced were compared to those produced by a retinol cream applied to the contralateral side. Clinical evaluations indicate that the two creams rapidly (28 days) improve wrinkles underneath the eyes, ptosis, color homogeneity, smoothness, plumpness, firmness, and elasticity of the facial skin. The improvement of crow's feet is only significant after 56 days. For all clinical signs, the effects of both creams are indistinguishable. Instrumental measurements of silicon replica from the eye contour region indicate that the wrinkle surface reduction is already noticeable after 28 days with the HME and retinol cream, while it takes 56 days to have a significant depth decrease. Only the retinol cream improves wrinkle length after 56 days. Ultrasound assessment of forearm skin revealed that the HME cream improves superficial dermis density as early as 28 days with further improvement at day 56, timepoint at which improvement is at the limit of significance with the retinol cream. These preliminary results indicate that HME has similar in vivo functional properties to retinol for reducing the severity of aging signs. Future works, including a bona fide clinical study, are needed to confirm these findings.

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INTRODUCTION: Dehydration of the stratum corneum leads to sensations and symptoms of 'dry skin' such as skin tightness and itchiness. As these complaints are frequently experienced by airline travellers, the aim of this study was to investigate the changes in skin surface hydration during long distance flights. METHODS: The study was performed on four healthy Caucasian, and on four Japanese women aged 29-39 years, travelling on long distance flights. They had stopped using skin care products at least 12 h before, and did not apply them during the flights. The air temperature and relative humidity inside the cabin, as well as skin capacitance of the face and forearm of participants, were registered at several time points before and during the flights. RESULTS: Relative humidity of the aircraft cabin dropped to levels below 10% within 2 h after take-off and stayed at this value throughout the flight. Skin capacitance decreased rapidly on both the face and forearms with most pronounced changes on the cheeks where it decreased by up to 37%. CONCLUSION: Our results demonstrate that during long distance flights, the aircraft cabin environment leads to a rapid decrease in stratum corneum hydration, an alteration, which probably accounts for the discomfort experienced by long distance aircraft travellers.

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BACKGROUND/PURPOSE: Sensations of itching and skin tightness are frequently reported after recreational swimming in pool water. Our objective was to measure the potential changes occurring at the skin surface under such conditions. METHODS: Nine women participated in this study, which consisted of two periods. During a 4-day control period, basal biophysical skin parameters were assessed every morning. On the first day, measurements were also performed in the afternoon. The second study period followed the same study design as for the control period, except that, on the first day, women swam for 1 h in a public pool, between the measurements performed in the morning and the afternoon. Skin capacitance, transepidermal water loss, skin temperature, skin pH and sebum casual level (SCL) were measured on facial and body sites. RESULTS: During the control period, biophysical skin parameters did not show significant variations. By contrast, h after swimming, biophysical values showed significant changes for all test sites: skin pH increased, whereas skin capacitance and SCL decreased. Biophysical parameters returned to baseline values the day after swimming. CONCLUSION: Our results demonstrate that recreational swimming leads to significant transient changes in skin surface properties of women with healthy skin.

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BACKGROUND/PURPOSE: This research aims at assessing the influence of baseline skin colour on the ability of reflectance spectrophotometry to detect cutaneous erythema induced by a low concentration of methyl nicotinate (2.5 mM) (first objective), and to detect tanning induced by ultraviolet rays (UVA+UVB) at infra-erythemal doses (second objective). METHODS: Two independent studies were conducted to reach their respective objectives, on 27 women for the first study and on 12 women for the second study. Skin colour measurements were expressed in two different ways: percentages of reflected light at increasing wavelengths lambda (400 nm or =40 degrees. The assumption is that in the darkest skins, the emitted light is mainly absorbed by the melanin in the epidermis. Otherwise, after UV irradiation, the tanning was detectable only for individuals with fair to dark skin defined by ITA <50 degrees. This can be explained by the fact that UV stimulation of the fairest skin subjects, known to be melano-compromised individuals, can only produce a weak tanning that our study did not succeed in detecting.

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BACKGROUND/PURPOSE: Hormonal replacement therapy (HRT) has been shown in the past to influence well being as well as several somatic features in menopausal women. The aim of this analysis was to study the effect of HRT on various biophysical properties of the skin of menopausal women. Two sub-samples were built to test the effect (1) of 'short-term' HRT in recently menopausal women (n=15), and (2) the effect of 'medium- and long-term' HRT in menopausal women (n=78). METHODS: The analysis was performed on data from a study of 106 menopausal Caucasian women with apparent healthy skin. Self-report data on the menopausal status, the duration of the menopause, whether or not HRT has been taken and the duration of the HRT were collected. A series of biophysical measurements on the cheek, the forehead and the inner forearm were performed under controlled environmental conditions. Twenty women were menopausal for less than 5 years (eight with HRT for at least 1 year and seven who had never taken HRT) and 86 women for at least 5 years (35 with HRT for at least 5 years and 43 who had never taken HRT). Analyses of covariance with adjustment for age were performed. RESULTS: With regard to skin colour, the measurements in women treated for at least 1 year were significantly higher for red intensity (a*) and lower for brightness (L*) on the forearm as compared with the non-treated women. Furthermore, yellow intensity (b*) mean values were higher on the forehead and the forearm in women treated for at least 5 years compared with the non-treated women. Concerning sebum casual level, the mean values were significantly higher on the forehead and the cheek in women treated for at least 5 years. Regarding skin surface parameters reflecting hydration, the mean values for capacitance on the forehead and the cheek were significantly higher in women treated for at least 5 years. Finally, as regards with skin relief, parameters mean values for amplitude and roughness on the forehead were significantly higher in women treated for at least 5 years. CONCLUSION: The skin colour parameters showed a higher red intensity value in menopausal women who had been treated for at least 1 year. In menopausal women who had been treated for at least 5 years, the biophysical measurements were significantly higher for the parameters reflecting hydration and sebum secretion, which generally decrease after the menopause. These features were associated with higher values for the yellow intensity parameter and the skin relief parameters on the forehead. Our results support the subjective impression and the clinical evaluation concerning the impact of HRT on the development and the evolution of some skin properties after menopause.

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