RESUMEN
This study presents the association of active antioxidants substances in a multifunctional cosmetic formulation with established efficacy against signs of aging. A multifunctional cosmetic formulation containing an association of UV filters and antioxidant substances (liposoluble vitamins A, C and E, Ginkgo biloba and Phorphyra umbilicalis extracts) was evaluated. This formulation was submitted to a clinical efficacy study using biophysics techniques and skin images analysis (digital photography imaging systems, 20 MHz ultrasound, and reflectance confocal microscopy). The volunteers applied the formulation containing the UV filters and antioxidant substances during the day and the formulation with antioxidant substances and without the UV filters at night, for 90 days. The formulation increased the hydration and protected the skin barrier function after a single application. At the long term assessment the formulation provided an improvement in skin barrier function and skin hydration to the deeper layers of the epidermis, leading to an improvement in skin appearance by reducing wrinkles and skin roughness. The multifunctional cosmetic formulation studied can be suggested to preventing signs of aging and improving skin conditions. In addition, this study presents the benefits of associating different active antioxidants substances in a single cosmetic formulation to prevent skin aging.
Asunto(s)
Antioxidantes , Cosméticos , Extractos Vegetales , Envejecimiento de la Piel/efectos de los fármacos , Vitaminas , Adulto , Antioxidantes/química , Antioxidantes/farmacología , Cosméticos/administración & dosificación , Cosméticos/química , Femenino , Ginkgo biloba/química , Humanos , Masculino , Persona de Mediana Edad , Extractos Vegetales/química , Extractos Vegetales/farmacología , Vitaminas/química , Vitaminas/farmacologíaRESUMEN
This study aimed to evaluate the effects of cosmetic formulations containing green tea (GT) and/or Ginkgo biloba (GB) extracts by preclinical and clinical studies. For the preclinical study, histological analysis was performed after 5 day-period of formulations application on the dorsum of hairless mice. For the clinical study, the formulations were applied on the forearm skin of 48 volunteers, and assessed before and after 3 hours and after a 15 and 30 day-period of application. Histological analysis showed that the formulation with GT (FGT) and the association of GT and GB (FBlend) significantly enhanced viable epidermis thickness and the number of cell layers, suggesting a moisturizing effect in skin deeper layers and increased cell renewal. The clinical efficacy studies showed that the extracts had a moisturizing effect and improved skin microrelief. In addition they synergistically acted on the skin elasticity and skin barrier function. In conclusion, the formulation containing a combination of green tea and Ginkgo biloba extracts effectively improved skin conditions and the effect of formulation FBlend on the improvement of skin elasticity was more pronounced. Finally, the results of the present study revealed other important clinical benefits of Ginkgo biloba and green tea extracts on the skin besides their already known antioxidant action.
Asunto(s)
Elasticidad/efectos de los fármacos , Ginkgo biloba , Extractos Vegetales/administración & dosificación , Envejecimiento de la Piel/efectos de los fármacos , Piel/efectos de los fármacos , Té , Adulto , Animales , Antioxidantes/administración & dosificación , Cosméticos/administración & dosificación , Sinergismo Farmacológico , Quimioterapia Combinada , Femenino , Humanos , Ratones , Ratones Pelados , Piel/metabolismo , Piel/patología , Envejecimiento de la Piel/patologíaRESUMEN
Green tea (GT) extracts contain polyphenols, known to be effective free radical scavengers, and other ingredients that could also provide benefits to the skin. This is a report on clinical studies using objective, noninvasive methods to evaluate the effects of cosmetic formulations containing GT. Experimental formulations were supplemented or not (vehicle) with 6% Camellia sinensis glycolic leaf extracts (GT). These formulations were applied to the forearm skin of 24 volunteers, and their effects were evaluated before and after 2 hours, 15 and 30 days according to the following parameters: stratum corneum water content, transepidermal water loss, skin viscoelastic-to-elastic ratio (Uv/Ue), and microrelief. The volunteers were instructed not to apply any formulation in an area of the forearm (control area). Experimental formulations (GT) increased skin moisture in the long-term study, indicating that GT has a prolonged moisturizing effect. The Uv/Ue was significantly enhanced after 30 days of topical application of the experimental formulation when compared with vehicle and control. After 15-30 days, skin microrelief was significantly improved due to a reduction in skin roughness. The results suggest that GT-containing cosmetic formulations have pronounced moisturizing effects and improve skin microrelief.
Asunto(s)
Antioxidantes/farmacología , Cosméticos/farmacología , Extractos Vegetales/farmacología , Té , Adulto , Química Farmacéutica , Femenino , Humanos , Piel/efectos de los fármacosRESUMEN
Liposoluble vitamin C derivatives, such as tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (IPAA), are often used in dermocosmetic products due to their higher stability than vitamin C free form as well as its proposed effects in skin; however, there are no studies analyzing IPAA stability or its in vivo effects when present in dermocosmetic formulations. Thus, this study aimed to evaluate chemical stability and pre-clinical and clinical efficacy of dermocosmetic formulations containing IPAA in skin hydration and microrelief. Chemical stability of the formulations added with 1% IPAA was evaluated by heat stress during 35 days by HPLC. For pre-clinical evaluation, experimental formulations were topically applied on hairless skin mice during 5 days and animal skins were analyzed by non-invasive biophysic techniques (water content of stratum corneum, TEWL, viscoelasticity, and microrelief) and by histopathological studies. For clinical efficacy tests, the formulations were topically applied to the forearm and face of human volunteers, and 3h and 15 days after applications, the skins were evaluated by the same non-invasive techniques mentioned before. Results showed that formulations containing IPAA had medium stability and had pronounced moisturizing effects on stratum corneum and on viable epidermis. These formulations also improved skin microrelief especially in relation to skin smoothness and roughness.
Asunto(s)
Ácido Ascórbico/análogos & derivados , Cosméticos/administración & dosificación , Glucolípidos/administración & dosificación , Piel/efectos de los fármacos , Adulto , Animales , Ácido Ascórbico/administración & dosificación , Ácido Ascórbico/química , Cromatografía Líquida de Alta Presión , Cosméticos/química , Estabilidad de Medicamentos , Elasticidad , Cara , Antebrazo , Glucolípidos/química , Humanos , Ratones , Ratones Pelados , Persona de Mediana Edad , Piel/metabolismo , Factores de Tiempo , Pérdida Insensible de AguaRESUMEN
Cosmetic stability prediction relies on quantitative chemical determinations of active components after certain times and in different temperatures. However, physical stability, an important parameter in skin care products is not considered in these conditions. This study proposes the determination of cosmetic stability chemical and physical parameters validated by (HPLC) chromatography and rheological measurements, respectively, using a gel-cream containing retinyl palmitate and tocopheryl acetate as a model system. The predicted shelf life addresses both the physical and chemical aspects of the system. Results emphasize the importance of studying both parameters by showing the relation of components degradation and physical stability. Moreover, they contribute to an improved understanding of physical and chemical stability aspects of cosmetic formulations, mainly if they contain Vitamins A and E derivatives.
Asunto(s)
Cosméticos , Geles/química , Vitamina A/análogos & derivados , Vitaminas/química , alfa-Tocoferol/análogos & derivados , Cromatografía Líquida de Alta Presión , Diterpenos , Estabilidad de Medicamentos , Humedad , Ésteres de Retinilo , Reología , Temperatura , Tocoferoles , Vitamina A/química , alfa-Tocoferol/químicaRESUMEN
A new tendency in cosmetic formulations is the association of botanical extracts and vitamins to improve skin conditions by synergic effects. The objective of this study was to determine the antioxidant activity of associated bioflavonoids, retinyl palmitate (RP), tocopheryl acetate (TA) and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (ATIP), as well as their photoprotective effects in preventing increased erythema, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and sunburn cell formation in hairless mouse skin. The antioxidant activity of solutions containing the association or each substance separately was evaluated in vitro by a chemiluminescence assay. The photoprotective effect was evaluated by means of in vivo tests. Dorsal skin of hairless mice was treated daily by topical applications for 5 days with formulations containing or not containing (vehicle) the flavonoid-vitamins association (5%). The skin was irradiated (UVA/B) 15 minutes after the last application. The results showed that bioflavonoids had in vitro antioxidant properties and also that when they were associated with vitamins their antioxidant activity was more pronounced. On the other hand, erythema and UV damage to the permeability barrier function (TEWL) was not significantly reduced by previous treatment with the flavonoid-vitamin-association formulations, when compared to the irradiated vehicle-treated area. However, the treatment protected the skin from UV damage because it reduced the number of sunburn cells, when compared to the vehicle-treated area. Finally, the association of vitamins and bioflavonoids added to a dermocosmetic formulation showed a relevant biological activity in terms of photoprotection, because the association of bioflavonoids and vitamins acted by different mechanisms, such as antioxidation and absorption of UV radiation, which suggests its use in antiaging and photoprotective products.