RESUMEN
Xanthones, and more specifically mangiferin, are molecules used in cosmetics for their photoprotective and anti-aging properties. The richness in xanthones of Aphloia theiformis leaves, a common shrub in Madagascar, can reach almost 12% (in relation to dry biomass). Amongst the A. theiformis studied, two major groups of individuals have been determined: those presenting a high proportion of mangiferin (up to 80% of the xanthones) and those presenting a high proportion of polar xanthones (not yet identified). Our study shows that: i) for each subject, the xanthone content remains stable over time (no seasonal variation); ii) the majority of the trees developing in the light belong to the first group (rich in mangiferin), whereas the individuals growing in the undergrowth are richer in polar xanthones; iii) the distribution of the two groups seems not to have any correlation with taxonomy and, moreover, with the known varieties of A. theiformis, although the micrantha variety is richer in mangiferin. Overall, this information indicates that A. theiformis is a reservoir of xanthones and makes it possible to define a framework for its reasoned management.
Asunto(s)
Helechos/química , Protectores Solares/química , Xantonas/química , Hojas de la Planta/química , Protectores Solares/farmacología , Xantonas/metabolismoRESUMEN
When substances are developed in the aim to be a constituent of personal care products, and to be applied on the skin, it is necessary to carry out an assessment of potential phototoxic hazard. Phototoxicity is skin reaction caused by concurrent topical or systemic exposure to specific molecule and ultraviolet radiation. Most phototoxic compounds absorb energy particularly from UVA light leading to the generation of activated derivatives which can induce cellular damage. This type of adverse cutaneous response can be reproduced in vitro using different models of phototoxicity such as the validated 3T3 Neutral Red Uptake (NRU) phototoxicity assay. In the present study we utilised two different cell lines (the murine fibroblastic cell line 3T3 and the rabbit cornea derived cell line SIRC) to compare the photo-irritation potential of a strong phototoxic compound, chlorpromazine, to a weaker composite, such as 8-methoxypsoralen and Bergamot oil. After comparison of the different systems, five other essential oils were tested with both cell lines. Cellular damage was evaluated by the NRU cytotoxicity test or by MTT conversion test.